tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-84348047930707794282024-03-13T13:44:09.253-07:00En famille vers BethléemEn famille vers BethléemNous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.comBlogger73125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-4308986871805353502021-01-24T12:54:00.010-08:002023-12-09T12:42:17.883-08:00Notre livre<p>Nous allons imprimer plusieurs exemplaires du récit de notre année
sabbatique "En famille vers Bethléem". Souhaitant partager avec vous
cette année extraordinaire, nous vous joignons un extrait du livre.</p><p style="text-align: center;"> <a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-np8O22hW-jU/YA3d88rXkpI/AAAAAAAAaeg/jj65BA-omigzl79MpY5fYiDEwtDnAxH-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s557/EnFamilleVersBethleem.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nqnDVbMUiKE9cOWTXAmFJJhPD2b7-ePc/view?usp=sharing" border="0" data-original-height="557" data-original-width="393" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-np8O22hW-jU/YA3d88rXkpI/AAAAAAAAaeg/jj65BA-omigzl79MpY5fYiDEwtDnAxH-gCLcBGAsYHQ/w283-h400/EnFamilleVersBethleem.JPG" title="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nqnDVbMUiKE9cOWTXAmFJJhPD2b7-ePc/view?usp=sharing" width="283" /></a></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ppCnD5BfRMl-FYEGIgwvRqlEB5lCOpth/view?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Cliquer ici pour voir l'extrait</a><br /></div><div><p></p><p> </p><p>
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Si vous êtes intéressé pour en commander un ou plusieurs exemplaires, vous pouvez nous contacter au 07 68 84 47 38 ou à l'adresse enfamilleversbethleem@gmail.com !<br />
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Le prix est de 17 euros. En achetant ce livre, vous aiderez l'association Mary's meal
(découverte lors de la rencontre d'une de ses ambassadrices qui nous a
accueillis à Medjugorje) à nourrir 1,6 millions d'enfants lorsqu'ils
vont à l'école. Tous les bénéfices lui seront reversés.<br />
<br /></p></div>Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-19738959136910078782017-02-04T04:00:00.002-08:002017-10-14T05:39:43.498-07:00Interview Radio Fidélité <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">Nous sommes passé sur Radio Fidélité dans "Vie de
Famille", voici le lien: </span><span class="apple-converted-space" style="font-size: 11pt;"> </span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;"><a href="http://radiofidelite.fr/fr/vie-de-famille-63/"><span style="color: purple; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><u>http://radiofidelite.fr/fr/vie-de-famille-63/</u></span></a></span></div>
<u1:p></u1:p><u1:p></u1:p><br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-13829458318800646632016-08-13T07:37:00.000-07:002016-08-13T07:37:40.836-07:00Merci à tous !Nous voici en France depuis deux mois. Nous nous réadaptons à la vie sédentaire et, pour Gwénolé, au travail.<br />
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Nous remercions nos familles, amis, collègues qui nous ont encouragés avant notre départ puis par leurs messages au cours de notre voyage et qui nous ont aidés concrètement pour les aspects logistiques et administratifs. Merci aussi à ceux qui ne croyaient pas trop à notre projet. Par leurs remarques ou questionnements, ils nous ont poussés à affiner les préparatifs.<br />
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Nous gardons en mémoire toutes les personnes que nous avons rencontrées cette année, qui nous ont parlé de leur vie, de leur pays, nous ont nourris, logés et spécialement :<br />
- en France : Brigitte et Denis, Michel et Anne, Raynald, Pauline et Jan, Claude et Solange, Patrick<br />
- en Allemagne : Stephan et Rebecca, Claire et Étienne, Theresa, Sonia et Willi, Constantin<br />
- en Autriche : Marta, Johan, Cornelia, Andrea, Balthazar, Peter, Angelica, Matthias, Magdalena, Loïc, Andreas, Joseph, Karl, Nikolaus<br />
- en Slovaquie : Dominique<br />
- en Hongrie : Margit, Sophia, Kinga<br />
- en Croatie : Aleksandar<br />
- en Serbie : Olivier et Lydie, Lubija<br />
- en Roumanie : Evelyna et Sacha, Stefana et Florian, Constantin, Florin, Isabelle et Lucian, Lumenita, Alin, ses parents et sa grand-mère Virginia, Peter, les 2 Petre et Lina<br />
- en Turquie : Pierre, Ibrahim, Muslim, Carla, Gülüzar, Ramazan, Aysel, Mustafa, Hatice, Adem, Ayçe, Serap, Süleyman, Icha, Tijen, Marie-Liesse et Ronan, Alix et Thierry<br />
- en Israël : Aryeh, Shani, Tamar, Yaniv, Yaêl, Hasna, Andrea, Monira, Amal, Zaid, Safa, Itamar, Franck, Ofsep, Efi, Christo, Marie-Claire et Pierre-Yves, Nathalie et Alban, Luc, Marie-Laure et Luc, Anne, Domitille, Béatrice, Odile, soeur Aïda, Nisrin, Cécile et Fabrice, Annie et Michel, Ethan, Ilam, soeur Anne-Catherine, soeur Myriam-Liesse, soeur Maria-Lied,<br />
- en Territoire palestinien : Laurette et Nicolas, soeur Femia, Marlene et Nadim, Marwa, Aïssa, Zacharia, Nahil et Abdelfattah, Zouhbi, Magda, Colette, Nicolas Ussama<br />
- en Grèce : sœur Marie-Christine, Loukia, Maria, Cécile, Manuela, Elena et Augustin, Marinos, Eleni, Diamando, Maria et Georges, Maximo, Gregory, Semila, Nopi, Christos, Costas et Costas, Yannis, Vassilios, <br />
- en Macédoine : Draguista et Marian, Slave, Ljupo, Peter, Draga et Doran, Goran, Veska<br />
- en Albanie : Ramadan, Aleks, Fatmira et Nazmi, Xhuljan, Nori, Sabri, Nadjmia et Aïdar, <br />
- au Monténégro : Zalag, Dushka et Drago, Andrea<br />
- en Bosnie : Milona, Silvana, Gérard<br />
- en Croatie : Natacha, Silena et Jogi, Katelijn et Miro, Marta, Zorica et Damijan, <br />
- en Slovénie : sœurs <span style="font-family: inherit;">J<span style="font-family: inherit;">an</span>a</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">, Darjan, Marjeta et Helena</span><br />
- en Italie : Valentina et Massimo, Edoardo, Ricardo<br />
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Plusieurs prêtres catholiques ont aussi été un grand soutien pour nous : Jean-Robert, Athanasius, Gwenolé, Eleuthère, Gabriel, Yacoub, Emile, Jean-Claude, Franz, Maurice, Olivier, Giuseppe et Giuseppe, Apolinaire, Mile.<br />
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Nous avons partagé également beaucoup de moments forts avec des compagnons voyageurs : Sarah et Vincent, Sébastien, Christine et Yohan, Géraldine et Steve, Robert, Damien, Agnes et Tom, Pauline, Marta et Farmer, Brigitte et Wolfgang, Nikolaus, Jacob, Manuel, Jordi, Clément, Philipp, Wesli, Katherine, Real, Simon, Guillemette et Augustin, Michael, Marie-Claire, Juth et Daniel, Markus, Katia et Luca, Carla et Jan, Witter. Nous avons pu parler de nos philosophies du voyage et comparer entre "gens de l'ouest" nos impressions sur les pays traversés.<br />
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Dans chaque pays, Xavier, Yann et Solenn ont trouvé un ou plusieurs copains/copines pour jouer : Remi, Loan, Tristan, Jacques et Armand, Solveig, Dorian, André et Georges, Alix, Eric, Fleur, Cyriaque, Brieuc, Mohamed, Wasim, Miar, Safa, Elissa, Jessica, Hanna, Gisèle, Marie, Maël, Alix, Siloë, Guilhem, Felix, Dimitria, Marco, Aristodis, Olga, Costa, Nina, Simon, Fran, Jakov, Miriam, Ester et Lia.<br />
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Enfin, une mention spéciale à ceux qui nous ont rejoints quelques jours en version itinérante ou touriste : Michel et Laurence, Catherine et Louis, Lucie, Madeleine, Théophile, Hélène et Hubert.<br />
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Notre voyage se poursuit par nos "pèlerinages intérieurs" et par les souvenirs d'une année que nous partageons avec notre entourage.<br />
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Un dernier merci à toutes les personnes connues ou inconnues qui nous ont suivis et encouragés à travers notre blog. Celui-ci reste ouvert, peut-être aidera-t-il d'autres familles à se lancer dans leur propre aventure !<br />
<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-19911308671922586252016-06-21T09:45:00.002-07:002016-06-21T09:45:37.939-07:00Séjour à Venise <span style="font-size: large;">Bienvenue sur notre site !</span><br />
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Lundi 13 juin<br />
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Après le petit déjeuner avec Edoardo, nous rejoignons Ricardo au théâtre la Fenice. Ricardo travaille là-bas, il nous a invités à visiter ce haut lieu de l'opéra italien. Avant et après, nous déambulons dans les rues et ruelles. Les enfants sont fascinés par la vie sur les canaux : gondoles sur lesquelles chante parfois un gondolier ou même une touriste asiatique, bateaux taxis chics, péniche de transport de matériaux ou stand de fruits et légumes.<br />
La journée se termine à l'association culturelle About. Ricardo et Edoardo en sont des membres actifs. C'est ici que nous dormirons le mardi et le mercredi soir et que nous découvrirons cette ambiance autogestionnaire et libertaire. Les étudiants ont concocté un programme de 5 soirées aux thèmes liés à la Via Egnatia. Aujourd'hui un photographe présente un reportage sur les réfugiés d'Idomeni auprès desquels il a passé quelques jours en avril.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le théâtre Fenice, entièrement restauré suite à l'incendie de 1996.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le hall d'accueil, seule partie du XVIIIème siècle qui a survécu à l'incendie</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'emblème du théâtre : le phénix (fenice en italien)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le palais des doges </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le pont des soupirs qui relie le palais des doges à la prison </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Travail dans la rue devant les locaux d'About</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dîner pour financer le loyer</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edoardo et Ricardo</td></tr>
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Mardi 14 juin<br />
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La matinée est consacrée aux visites de la basilique Saint Marc et du palais des doges. Nous découvrons que la République de Venise a duré 1000 ans avec une influence et un contrôle des voies maritimes sur l'ensemble du bassin méditerranéen, lui permettant un quasi monopole sur le commerce des épices d'orient. La découverte des Amériques, l'explosion du commerce triangulaire puis les invasions napoléoniennes ont eu raison de sa puissance et de son indépendance.<br />
Le palais des doges abritait les salles des différents conseils de la république ainsi que les salles du système judiciaire.<br />
Le soir, dans le cadre du programme lié à la Via Egnatia, nous présentons notre voyage dans les locaux d'About. Edoardo sert d'interprète et nous terminons autour d'un repas.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le marché </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La cour d'honneur du palais des doges </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La bouche recevait les dénonciations...qui tombaient directement dans les bureaux des magistrats.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un des couloirs de la prison</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vue depuis le pont des soupirs </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre famille en plein exposé</td></tr>
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Mercredi 15 juin<br />
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Notre dernier jour avant le départ. Nous partons visiter la presqu'île au sud de Venise puis la partie est de la ville. Nous prenons le vaporetto pour rentrer, les enfants sont ravis.<br />
Le soir, nous croisons rapidement Ricardo qui prépare une réunion d'information sur un bâtiment universitaire menacé de devenir un hôtel. En effet, l'association About travaille aussi pour que Venise garde ses habitants. Elle milite pour éviter que Venise ne devienne qu'une ville "carte postale" uniquement centrée sur le tourisme.<br />
Nous offrons à nos hôtes des biscuits pour les remercier de leur accueil qui nous a permis de terminer notre voyage avec des habitants de Venise !<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dernière photo devant la place Saint Marc</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sur le vaporetto </td></tr>
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Jeudi 16 juin<br />
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Ça y est, c'est la fin de notre périple. Nous rentrons en train en douceur. Nous faisons quelques haltes dans les Alpes-Maritimes, la Haute-Garonne, le Gers et la Charente-Maritime où nous attendent amis et famille.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Faute de moustiquaire, Charlotte installe la tente intérieure </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Départ de Venise. Nous partons vers la France </td></tr>
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Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-90896195340032344812016-06-16T00:52:00.002-07:002016-06-21T09:46:03.351-07:00De Trieste à Venise <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Lundi 6 juin</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Journée de repos, nous prenons le temps de faire plus ample connaissance avec nos voisins de parcelle, des cyclos hollandais, Carla et Jan, qui vont de Salzburg à Venise en faisant un crochet en Istrie par la Parenzana. Jan nous interroge sur nos motivations. Lui a travaillé pendant 20 ans pour l'église catholique et travaille maintenant 2 jours par semaine auprès des plus isolés à Rotterdam. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous partons à pied, traversons un bois et prenons un bus pour visiter le château de Miramare. L'empereur Maximilien de Habsburg fit construire ce château pour lui et son épouse Charlotte de Belgique. Ils l'occupèrent à peine 10 ans avant leur départ vers le Mexique puis la fin tragique de Maximilien à 35 ans.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous prenons un bus pour le centre de Trieste où nous allons manger des parts de pizza. Le patron est italien mais son épouse est du Luxembourg. Nous discutons en français et les enfants se font offrir des bonbons. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Au camping, après les devoirs et le dîner, sans averse cette fois, Gwénolé et Charlotte prennent une boisson avec Carla et Jan. La discussion commence autour de la place et du rôle des laïcs dans l'église catholique en Hollande et en France. Elle continue sur la générosité des plus pauvres, qui savent ce que c'est de manquer de quelque chose, et sur l'hospitalité orientale. Après tout cela, il est temps de se coucher !</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quelle coulemelle ! </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le château de Miramare</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charlotte de Belgique </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La fête à Venise en l'honneur de Maximilien et Charlotte </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les garçons ont terminé la visite...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bgQHQBApOlw/V1z96icy_II/AAAAAAAAVr8/wFF7E0hMdEQUprtnDyyk3R6sbYVJyEwxACKgB/s1600/P6062808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bgQHQBApOlw/V1z96icy_II/AAAAAAAAVr8/wFF7E0hMdEQUprtnDyyk3R6sbYVJyEwxACKgB/s640/P6062808.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...pas les filles !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Trieste, l'église serbe orthodoxe est fermée et surveillée par la police. Tant pis !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous ne nous lassons pas de la vue depuis le camping. L'été, celui-ci est habité en grande partie par des Triestins à la recherche de fraîcheur.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Au bar avec Carla et Jan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un ver luisant</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Mardi 7 juin</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Nous restons à l'altitude du camping sur la Via Napoleone dont l'ombrage est agréable en ce jour chaud. Deux vieux nous interpellent : "Ma, che bella cariola ! Vous allez à Rome ?"</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">"Nous venons de Béthléem mais pas tout à pied." "Heureusement car sinon ça ferait trop long !"</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous faisons une grande pause pique-nique, sieste et devoirs à un point de vue. Peu après nous sommes à Santa Croce, village où tout est écrit en Slovène. Nous faisons le plein d'eau et de nourriture puis cherchons un endroit pour passer la nuit dans la forêt voisine. Nous finissons par trouver un coin de bivouac mais nous avons juste le temps d'installer la tente de 3 avant une pluie d'orage. Nous nous occupons pendant 1 heure en jouant aux cartes et en lisant, recroquevillés dans la tente. Nous dînons à la nuit tombante, une fois l'orage passé.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Via Napoleone </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mytiliculture</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Mercredi 8 juin</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Nous continuons sur le chemin qui domine la mer puis terminons par la route jusqu'à Porto Piccolo. Le temps est chaud et lourd. Nous nous arrêtons dans un camping village qui accueille 1 500 personnes au plus fort de la saison, le seul camping du coin. Nous avons juste le temps de monter les tentes et profiter de la piscine avant que l'orage arrive. Nous nous réfugions aux sanitaires ; aucun espace abrité n'est prévu pour les cyclistes ou marcheurs. Heureusement la soirée est sèche. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Jeudi 9 juin</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">A peine sommes nous réveillés que la pluie commence. Nous nous réfugions sous l'auvent des éviers le temps du petit déjeuner puis plions les tentes mouillées. La journée n'est pas agréable car nous longeons une route passante qui descend vers Monfalcone et sa zone industrielle. Nous aurions volontiers fait ce trajet à vélo ! Nous dépassons Monfalcone puis nous arrêtons au camping de Marina Julia qui est encore un village vacances. Pendant que Charlotte fait faire les devoirs aux enfants, Gwénolé fait sécher les tentes puis les monte. La météo n'est pas bonne mais annonce l'arrêt des averses pour la fin d'après midi et la nuit. Pourtant le mauvais temps continue jusqu'au lendemain matin... Nous dînons à nouveau sous un auvent, celui des toilettes... Un Allemand, Witter, nous demande si nos tentes sont mouillées, nous lui répondons qu'elles sont trop petites pour manger dessous. Nous lui expliquons notre parcours. Il revient quelques minutes après avec un paquet de fraises tagada. Un peu de chaleur humaine, cela fait du bien !</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les devoirs et le dîner dans ce coin des sanitaires </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Vendredi 10 juin</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">La pluie s'est enfin arrêtée et le soleil est à nouveau là ! Nous longeons désormais la mer dans un paysage de bois et de marais. La zone est classée Natura 2000. Nous profitons de la pause pique-nique pour faire sécher nos serviettes et tentes. Après une 20aine de km sur goudron nous arrivons sur l'île de Grado, reliée au continent par des ponts. Nous snobons les gros campings avec animations et nous nous arrêtons dans un camping en sous-bois occupé par des Allemands et Autrichiens. Il donne sur la plage, les enfants profitent d'une petite piscine et nous profitons tous des moustiques !</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous retrouvons le bord de mer avec plaisir, Trieste est au fond à gauche</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Les marais nous rappellent la Charente Maritime</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Séchoir écolo...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A l'entrée de l'île de Gardo, un golf. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La plage du camping</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baignade après l'heure quotidienne de travail</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Samedi 11 juin</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Après le beau temps d'hier, les orages sont à nouveau là. </span><span style="font-size: large;">Le soir nous apprenons aux informations qu'une tornade s'est formée pendant quelques minutes sur la lagune de Venise...</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous partons équipés de nos ponchos. Nous suivons la piste cyclable toute la journée et atteignons Aquileia, ville classée au patrimoine mondial de l'humanité mais qui ne fait pas décor de carte postale comme certaines villes que nous avons traversées en Croatie. Cette ville semble avoir su tirer partie de son patrimoine tout en maintenant sa vie locale. Aquileia a été un port romain bouillonnant d'activité, tête de pont des Romains pour leur expansion vers le Danube. Nous avons bouclé la boucle depuis l'été dernier ! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">La basilique renferme la plus grande mosaïque au sol de l'occident chrétien, du 4ème siècle. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le port de Gardo </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La piste cyclable, portion de l'eurovélo 8, est encore un vestige d'une voie ferrée construite sous l'empire austro-hongrois.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pique-nique au cimetière San Marco, à l'écart de la route. Malheureusement, le chemin côtier est fermé par un grillage, nous devons revenir à la piste cyclable.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Au moins, nous aurons vu un lièvre !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basilique d'Aquileia</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Si tu ne te brosses pas les dents, elles seront comme celles du ragondin !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le bon pasteur</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Une des scènes de l'histoire de Jonas, peuplées de poissons, de poulpes et calamars. Superbe !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un mausolée de l'époque romaine </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le forum</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Dimanche 12 juin </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Vu le temps incertain, nous avons loué un mobile home pour la nuit. En fait il ne pleut qu'au milieu de la nuit. Nous partons en fin de matinée pour une dernière marche de 6 km seulement, toujours sur la piste cyclable.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A Cervignano, nous prenons le train pour Venise. Ce train régional rapide nous fait l'effet d'avancer comme un TGV !</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A notre arrivée, Edoardo et Ricardo nous accueillent. Ils font partie du laboratoire d'écologie de la ville et du paysage de l'université de Venise. Chaque été pendant 15 jours un groupe d'étudiants et de personnes intéressées marche sur des chemins historiques. Cette année, ils parcourront la via Egnatia entre Bitola et Thessalonique. L'été dernier ils ont marché sur le tronçon Dürres-Bitola. Nous aurons matière à discussion !</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous dormons cette nuit chez Eduardo dont les 2 colocataires sont absents. Eduardo a vécu 2 ans en Belgique, il parle bien français. Nous préparons le dîner que nous prenons avec lui. Il étudie le développement du territoire, nous confrontons nos expériences.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On se croirait dans un compartiment de train</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petit repos avant le départ </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ça y est, notre marche est finie</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre arrivée à Venise </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Comme le veut la tradition, en guise d'apéro, nous dégustons avec Edoardo et Ricardo un verre de "vino rosso". Les Italiens disent "cin, cin" comme les Français.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span id="goog_932594987"></span><span id="goog_932594988"></span><br /></span>Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-47312712100585698572016-06-08T14:25:00.001-07:002016-06-16T06:14:21.698-07:00Rijeka et la Parenzana : Croatie, Slovénie, Italie Samedi 28 mai<br />
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Le père de Jogi nous amène à l'embarcadère de Rab à 6h30. Après une traversée rapide du golfe de Kvarner en catamaran, Katelyjn, vice-présidente de Communauté Vie Chrétienne en Croatie, nous accueille au port de Rijeka. Nous allons passer 2 jours en famille dans leur appartement tout près du port. Katelyjn, belge flamande, parle français. Elle a rencontré son mari à une rencontre européenne de Taizé. Autour d'un petit-déjeuner, nous faisons connaissance avec Miro, son mari, et Marta, une de leurs 3 enfants, qui nous prête sa chambre. Damijan, président de Communauté Vie Chrétienne en Croatie, nous rejoint.<br />
Nous consacrons cette journée à visiter Rijeka en compagnie de nos hôtes et à parler de nos vies. Les guerres de Yougoslavie ont eu un impact direct sur la vie de nos hôtes. Miro, d'origine bosniaque, venu faire ses études à Rijeka, y est resté quand la guerre à éclaté en Bosnie. Damijan a rencontré sa femme Zorica à Rijeka car celle-ci avait fuit la région de Vukovar.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre bateau pour la traversée </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port de Rijeka. Entièrement construit sur la mer à l'époque austro-hongroise </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avec Marta, Damijan, Katelyjn et Miro</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Damijan et Marta sont musiciens, Miro est musicien et poète à côté de son métier de prof de religion. Nos échanges sont riches. Un petit chant de Taizé tous ensemble et l'ambiance est là !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Restes du forum romain </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous visitons le musée naval et d'histoire de Rijeka </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'ancien château domine la ville</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petite marche vers Trsat, lieu de pèlerinage marial</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fin de messe de confirmation animée par les novices franciscains </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jean-Paul II, vénéré dans les Balkans pour le rôle qu'il a joué dans la chute des dictatures, venu ici en pélerin</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le château de Trsat </td></tr>
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<span id="goog_1227436166"></span><span id="goog_1227436167"></span><br />
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Dimanche 29 mai<br />
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Gwénolé et Charlotte accompagnent Katelyjn, Marta et Miro à un baptême.<br />
En début d'après-midi, Damijan, Zorica et leurs 2 fils Jakov, 14 ans, et Fran, 12 ans, amènent l'apéritif puis nous déjeunons tous ensemble.<br />
Vers 17 h nous partons nous promener sur la riviera de Crikvenica parsemée de belles maisons construites par les Austro-Hongrois au début du 20ème siècle. Solenn ne quitte pas Marta. Les 5 garçons entre 11 et 15 ans se débrouillent pour se comprendre en anglais. Xavier et Yann entraînent les 3 Croates à prononcer des mots qui contiennent des diphtongues, comme "chien". Ils s'exercent à leur tour à dire Hrvatska, qui veut dire Croatie. Ambiance assurée !<br />
Nous terminons par la messe.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simon, 15 ans, le dernier de la famille, traduit en anglais les cartes "chance" du monopoly !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Xavier adopte la coutume de croquer dans les oignons nouveaux !</td></tr>
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Lundi 30 mai<br />
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La matinée s'écoule chez nos hôtes entre les devoirs et quelques préparatifs. Après un déjeuner rapide, nous embrassons Katelyjn et la remercions pour son accueil "comme à la maison". Merci pour ces deux journées ! Miro et Marta nous accompagnent jusqu'à la gare routière puis nous voilà partis vers Livade, au centre de l'Istrie. Le chauffeur nous dépose à deux pas de la Parenzana.<br />
La Parenzana est une voie ferrée construite par les Austro-Hongrois et utilisée entre 1902 et 1935 puis réaménagée en voie verte. Nous allons la suivre jusqu'à Trieste.<br />
Nous marchons 2 heures puis passons une soirée reposante à 3 km du village le plus proche.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SQgHMdvDSoM/V1RrkhYOgwI/AAAAAAAAVQg/yED0WpAM-w8tZh-B4bhviiXmngMId1NawCKgB/s1600/P5302594.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SQgHMdvDSoM/V1RrkhYOgwI/AAAAAAAAVQg/yED0WpAM-w8tZh-B4bhviiXmngMId1NawCKgB/s640/P5302594.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Parenzana en Istrie, chemin tranquille qui nous permet de repenser à tous les moments partagés ce week-end</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aUcIED6pAYs/V1Rrkq-BHxI/AAAAAAAAVQg/CiLrEIS2Lloi8Cvtlm5x6aGs0CXBhaUogCKgB/s1600/P5302595.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aUcIED6pAYs/V1Rrkq-BHxI/AAAAAAAAVQg/CiLrEIS2Lloi8Cvtlm5x6aGs0CXBhaUogCKgB/s640/P5302595.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quel accueil !</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lR_0gsriHVw/V1Rrks9oKRI/AAAAAAAAVQg/vy_dfhehj7M-abivB53vE4boTv6mmoUZgCKgB/s1600/P5302600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lR_0gsriHVw/V1Rrks9oKRI/AAAAAAAAVQg/vy_dfhehj7M-abivB53vE4boTv6mmoUZgCKgB/s640/P5302600.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous découvrons une source avant ce viaduc...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T1qqSnZ6AMY/V1RrknzWXAI/AAAAAAAAVQg/yGICQjbfcggxsmV7dy2bZ8XLlRo_lpibQCKgB/s1600/P5302605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T1qqSnZ6AMY/V1RrknzWXAI/AAAAAAAAVQg/yGICQjbfcggxsmV7dy2bZ8XLlRo_lpibQCKgB/s640/P5302605.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...puis l'ancienne gare de Oprta qui nous offre un grand terre-plain d'herbe pour le bivouac</td></tr>
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Mardi 31 mai<br />
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Au petit jour nous écoutons la symphonie des oiseaux.<br />
Nous marchons jusqu'à Buje. Le chemin alterne les viaducs et les tunnels. Nous pique-niquons dans le village touristique de Staro Boćalište où plusieurs personnes nous posent des questions sur nos chariots. A partir de ce village tous les panneaux sont bilingues slovène-italien.<br />
Nous trouvons à nous loger dans un studio avec mezzanine sous les toits dans la vieille ville de Buje. Tant mieux car l'orage tonne une bonne partie de la nuit !<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Staro Boćalište</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrivée à Buje </td></tr>
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Mercredi 1er juin<br />
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Charlotte et Gwénolé visitent le centre ville de Buje pendant que les enfants finissent de se préparer. Le chemin du jour descend vers la mer et passe la frontière vers la Slovénie, notre avant dernier pays avant la France. Juste après la frontière, nous rencontrons un groupe de cyclistes allemands. Intrigués par nos chariots, ils nous invitent à boire du schnaps. Ils sont de Ulm, ville au bord du Danube dans laquelle nous sommes passés l'été dernier.<br />
A Sečovlije, nous pique-niquons et un Slovène nous aborde. Il est étudiant en 2ème année d'informatique et fait des petits boulots l'été pendant la période touristique. Comme en Croatie, il nous raconte que les temps sont durs en ce moment à cause du blocus russe, surtout pour leur industrie pharmaceutique. Par ailleurs, un certain nombre d'entreprises slovènes sont sous-traitantes pour l'Allemagne : ascenseurs, industrie automobile... Encore une fois, il nous confie que beaucoup de ses compatriotes partent en Allemagne ou Autriche pour trouver du travail...<br />
La Parenzana est goudronnée maintenant, aménagée avec des poubelles de tri tous les 100 m et des tables de pique-nique. Contrairement à ce que nous disait l'étudiant, nous nous sentons en Europe de l'ouest !<br />
En fin d'après-midi, nous arrivons à Lucija où nous campons. Le supermarché paraît énorme et nous payons maintenant en euro avec une carte bleue. Cela sent le retour.<br />
Le soir venu, un ballet de lucioles vient illuminer notre nuit. Nous n'en avions jamais vu ! Avec les étoiles et les éclairs, c'est un festival de lumières.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Vieille ville de Buje </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un couple de vieux désherbe son champ ; cela nous rappelle l'Albanie </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frontière Croatie - Slovénie </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le groupe de cyclistes nous encourage avec un verre de schnaps pour les adultes et une limonade pour les enfants.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Solenn est charmée par ces insectes colorés</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les 3 mousquetaires accaparent Yann...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un petit air de Charente-maritime</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ancien hangar à sel de Lucija<br />
; il nous rappelle ceux de Guérande</td></tr>
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Jeudi 2 juin<br />
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À la sortie de Lucija, nous traversons un tunnel long de 544 mètres. L'essentiel de notre marche se passe ensuite dans une vallée bien verte occupée par des jardins et vergers.<br />
A Izola nous trouvons à côté de l'ancienne gare la maison des soeurs ursulines qui nous accueillent pour 2 nuits. Nous faisons connaissance autour de boissons et biscuits.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre récolte de cerises aigres du camping </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un abri nous tend les bras alors que nous essuyons une pluie d'orage. Un couple d'Anglais attend là. Eux ne se prennent pas en photo, ils nous expliquent que, de la pluie, ils en ont tout le temps. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TmoUxb1WZqE/V1RstlCPvMI/AAAAAAAAVRI/X089RVQBt74AV9mvs-4X7LcgvD1b7yD1ACKgB/s1600/P6022692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TmoUxb1WZqE/V1RstlCPvMI/AAAAAAAAVRI/X089RVQBt74AV9mvs-4X7LcgvD1b7yD1ACKgB/s640/P6022692.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charlotte et ses panneaux...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CA3g9UnL7jg/V1RstqkYxJI/AAAAAAAAVRI/NMp4HxPDTFUzRE4S61Ycfoq3OqNvnuGoQCKgB/s1600/P6022693.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CA3g9UnL7jg/V1RstqkYxJI/AAAAAAAAVRI/NMp4HxPDTFUzRE4S61Ycfoq3OqNvnuGoQCKgB/s640/P6022693.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Izola nous voilà ! </td></tr>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cF9c-XOTIns/V1Rstst80rI/AAAAAAAAVRI/9IdtbRHK2zkIhCvrC9DObRXdsrHgCUFWwCKgB/s1600/P6022694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cF9c-XOTIns/V1Rstst80rI/AAAAAAAAVRI/9IdtbRHK2zkIhCvrC9DObRXdsrHgCUFWwCKgB/s640/P6022694.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Vendredi 3 juin<br />
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Bon anniversaire Yann ! Les soeurs offrent des chocolats à Yann après la messe à la chapelle et lui chantent happy birthday. Nous visitons Izola qui nous plaît : une vraie vie locale couplée à un cadre de vie agréable. Nous fêtons les 11 ans de Yann dans un petit resto de quartier.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les Ursulines nous accueillent chez elles</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4fWO184ndsg/V1gx5uvCU2I/AAAAAAAAVdA/kb5SaBdeYY0T5fQsTy3jUj69y4oUSoEpACKgB/s1600/P6022697.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4fWO184ndsg/V1gx5uvCU2I/AAAAAAAAVdA/kb5SaBdeYY0T5fQsTy3jUj69y4oUSoEpACKgB/s400/P6022697.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leur jardin est beau...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ThCkLa-07zc/V1gx5pcIq6I/AAAAAAAAVdA/mhCcMOqr4Fs1HUL3HN-_e-vx89Vs6TP3QCKgB/s1600/P6022698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ThCkLa-07zc/V1gx5pcIq6I/AAAAAAAAVdA/mhCcMOqr4Fs1HUL3HN-_e-vx89Vs6TP3QCKgB/s400/P6022698.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...et produit de bons fruits et légumes </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PL5sJJ-tAJo/V1Rs--eoLnI/AAAAAAAAVRU/CbBOxq3wnxoDrttLGcQx5Bd46LnvdXKZgCKgB/s1600/20160603_090758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PL5sJJ-tAJo/V1Rs--eoLnI/AAAAAAAAVRU/CbBOxq3wnxoDrttLGcQx5Bd46LnvdXKZgCKgB/s640/20160603_090758.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leur chapelle </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FZRIuLV4tt4/V1h33wB_IYI/AAAAAAAAVdY/prs6z8qbk4MCL5t1yBZlTPgZOUQfIlscgCKgB/s1600/P6032730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FZRIuLV4tt4/V1h33wB_IYI/AAAAAAAAVdY/prs6z8qbk4MCL5t1yBZlTPgZOUQfIlscgCKgB/s640/P6032730.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soeur Jana et sa communauté </td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sfn38nDLVxk/V1Rs-xvpTJI/AAAAAAAAVRU/H0k2liBiWd0NvxyOzNeFVUHWZY4hkDvPQCKgB/s1600/P6032699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sfn38nDLVxk/V1Rs-xvpTJI/AAAAAAAAVRU/H0k2liBiWd0NvxyOzNeFVUHWZY4hkDvPQCKgB/s320/P6032699.JPG" width="180" /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TqjqYO8FiG0/V1Rs-9nSq6I/AAAAAAAAVRU/EcFf3A__238utwFTfFU8sqqr20KkOZ7xgCKgB/s1600/P6032700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TqjqYO8FiG0/V1Rs-9nSq6I/AAAAAAAAVRU/EcFf3A__238utwFTfFU8sqqr20KkOZ7xgCKgB/s320/P6032700.JPG" width="180" /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7rMeajLPDwQ/V1Rs-6AOxqI/AAAAAAAAVRU/Q9jO2GDulocX0oWxKbuBnPjxpwy0qrDzgCKgB/s1600/P6032701.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7rMeajLPDwQ/V1Rs-6AOxqI/AAAAAAAAVRU/Q9jO2GDulocX0oWxKbuBnPjxpwy0qrDzgCKgB/s320/P6032701.JPG" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Les ruelles d'Izola </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ytRPIfzwsCU/V1Rs-7H07dI/AAAAAAAAVRU/AexIKq-pTWkeWofEyXLlN_zApefHMisvQCKgB/s1600/P6032707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ytRPIfzwsCU/V1Rs-7H07dI/AAAAAAAAVRU/AexIKq-pTWkeWofEyXLlN_zApefHMisvQCKgB/s640/P6032707.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YPGp4diMJb4/V1h5Fj8-svI/AAAAAAAAVds/ze5shO-O9xIcDqW675uyNC6nfqckQPCEgCKgB/s1600/P6032724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YPGp4diMJb4/V1h5Fj8-svI/AAAAAAAAVds/ze5shO-O9xIcDqW675uyNC6nfqckQPCEgCKgB/s640/P6032724.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous fêtons les 11 ans de Yann par un plat de sardines, calamars et filets de poisson </td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rjQAcOhwRaQ/V1h5FjKt39I/AAAAAAAAVds/4L-1_Cx7TWAGshpn_DgWQQPOR1XcqrccACKgB/s1600/P6032722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rjQAcOhwRaQ/V1h5FjKt39I/AAAAAAAAVds/4L-1_Cx7TWAGshpn_DgWQQPOR1XcqrccACKgB/s400/P6032722.JPG" width="225" /></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O7L80Zp9uOo/V1h5Fh8b0BI/AAAAAAAAVds/K6mInQ6BnCsQq6zxlUUQwy0hO2qZicgWwCKgB/s1600/P6032723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O7L80Zp9uOo/V1h5Fh8b0BI/AAAAAAAAVds/K6mInQ6BnCsQq6zxlUUQwy0hO2qZicgWwCKgB/s400/P6032723.JPG" width="225" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o_slcn-2vbs/V1h4JzOfi_I/AAAAAAAAVdg/WF6hhFCGX5IYE63N76wbINWFfM5uXm0lgCKgB/s1600/P6032726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o_slcn-2vbs/V1h4JzOfi_I/AAAAAAAAVdg/WF6hhFCGX5IYE63N76wbINWFfM5uXm0lgCKgB/s640/P6032726.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Naîvement nous nous installons dans une piscine qui semble ouverte à tout le monde. En fait elle est réservée aux clients d'un hôtel. Il font une exception pour nous. Sympa ! Les garçons sont restés à lire dans la chambre. Dommage pour eux !</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JQrkPCrxFD0/V1h4J1bVh9I/AAAAAAAAVdg/YP1jFQG8P2UdsMmMI2rcdyKMYUvC1U0uQCKgB/s1600/P6032727.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JQrkPCrxFD0/V1h4J1bVh9I/AAAAAAAAVdg/YP1jFQG8P2UdsMmMI2rcdyKMYUvC1U0uQCKgB/s640/P6032727.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous terminons le jour anniversaire de Yann par une glace, qu'il préférait à un gâteau.</td></tr>
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Samedi 4 juin</div>
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Nous repartons sur la Parenzana. Le chemin passe à côté de la route côtière qui mène à Koper. Le temps est orageux mais nous passons entre les orages. Nous nous posons dans un bois à quelques mètres de la frontière. Gwénolé part faire le plein d'eau, de pain et de crudités dans le village d'à côté.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IHqn3iuZ53M/V1W150DddPI/AAAAAAAAVbM/4B_WCk4wPdoZ_BmpkwCIb9rZMk2AD4OqwCKgB/s1600/P6042732.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IHqn3iuZ53M/V1W150DddPI/AAAAAAAAVbM/4B_WCk4wPdoZ_BmpkwCIb9rZMk2AD4OqwCKgB/s640/P6042732.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">En bas de chaque panneau publicitaire, un bandeau en italien </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SAI7MztOIZU/V1W156iWouI/AAAAAAAAVbM/xm9wB4WQRFAWmfTmCMXXBMF2zezuIqqnACKgB/s1600/P6042733.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SAI7MztOIZU/V1W156iWouI/AAAAAAAAVbM/xm9wB4WQRFAWmfTmCMXXBMF2zezuIqqnACKgB/s640/P6042733.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Koper </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1enMEr1Fyg/V1W15w3-l2I/AAAAAAAAVbM/XjYS-93PqhESxsjXGNvB5zl1o_v0nfDSQCKgB/s1600/P6042736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1enMEr1Fyg/V1W15w3-l2I/AAAAAAAAVbM/XjYS-93PqhESxsjXGNvB5zl1o_v0nfDSQCKgB/s640/P6042736.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le port de Koper </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwRXhjnOAYQ/V1W155aOIvI/AAAAAAAAVbM/OKocrt68wvMKDHSGZUWopZJ6CV_8EEP9ACKgB/s1600/P6042743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwRXhjnOAYQ/V1W155aOIvI/AAAAAAAAVbM/OKocrt68wvMKDHSGZUWopZJ6CV_8EEP9ACKgB/s640/P6042743.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sous un pont, nous attendons la fin de l'averse</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cueillette de cerises </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre bivouac</td></tr>
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Dimanche 5 juin</div>
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Ça y est nous passons la frontière sans poste frontière cette fois et nous entrons en Italie, notre dernier pays. Nous marchons 2 bonnes heures dans la banlieue sud de Trieste. Nous passons ensuite par le vieux centre ville avec son forum romain et sa cathédrale puis continuons vers le nord de la ville qui date de l'empire austro-hongrois entre le 18 et 19 ème siècle . </div>
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Le soir, nous rencontrons une famille dont les parents, Massimo et Valentina, font partis de CVX. Valentina parle francais et Massimo anglais. Nous nous retrouvons pour une promenade sur la voie Napoléonienne dont le départ se trouve au niveau du camping ! </div>
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Massimo nous raconte l'histoire de sa ville dont le développement du port, voulu et créé par les Habsburg, a fait passer Trieste d'un bourg à une grande ville. Il nous raconte également les liens étroits entre les Slovéniens et les Italiens qui sont si forts que tous les panneaux sont écris dans les deux langues. Au temps de la Yougoslavie, des familles entières ont été séparées pendant 50 ans. </div>
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Valentin et Massimo nous offrent la spécialité de Trieste : une sorte de brioche fourrée chocolat-pignons-oranges confites, un délice. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A la frontière entre la Slovénie et l'Italie </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arivée à Trieste, fin de la Parenzana</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le forum romain</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La cathédrale San Giusto</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le tramway qui monte au camping est dans son jus. Une crémaillère lui permet de grimper la pente à plus de 20%.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vue sur Trieste et ses ports</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le phare de la victoire, symbole de la souveraineté italienne retrouvée après la fin de l'empire austro-hongrois </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ester, Massimo, Lia, Valentina et Myriam </td></tr>
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Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-44515378653958984622016-06-01T12:19:00.001-07:002016-06-08T14:26:06.491-07:00Tour de l'île de Rab en kayak<span style="font-size: large;">Nous prenons une petite semaine pour découvrir la Croatie par la mer. Nous faisons le tour de l'île de Rab en kayak.</span><br />
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Samedi 21 mai</div>
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Nous avons du mal à obtenir une information claire pour savoir comment rejoindre l'île de Rab. Au final nous prenons à Split un bus qui nous dépose à 2 km de l'embarcadère de Stinica. Nous descendons à pied les 2 km puis prenons le ferry pour la traversée. Là, les employés du ferry nous indiquent qu'un bus arrive de Rijeka et qu'il continue jusqu'à la ville de Rab. Nous demandons donc au chauffeur de monter. Il accepte mais nous demande un prix plus élevé que généralement, sans tickets... Nous arrivons finalement à bon port, en un temps optimum ! Nous passons chez Jogi, le loueur de kayak, que nous avons trouvé via des forums. Vu notre projet, il nous a spontanément proposé une remise de 50%. </div>
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Nous partons planter la tente au camping qui donne sur la plage. Nous sommes en "Deutschland" : le camping est peuplé quasi exclusivement d'Allemands et d'Autrichiens en camping-car. C'est pareil sur toute l'île. Même les commerçants nous parlent allemand.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Première vue sur l'île de Rab</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le car que nous récupérons avec manipulations malaisées de nos chariots coincés de l'autre côté </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La vue depuis la plage du camping</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Dimanche 22 mai</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous passons la matinée à faire le ravitaillement, à examiner la carte avec Silena, l'épouse de Jogi et à charger le matériel sur la remorque et dans la voiture. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous commençons par le sud de l'île ourlé de criques prisées par les naturistes sur leurs bateaux à moteur. Nous nous installons sur la plage que nous a indiquée Silena et cuisinons avec du bois flotté. Après le dîner, les moustiques interrompent notre contemplation de la mer.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chez Jogi et Silena, nous trions les affaires que nous emmenons et celles que nous laissons chez eux.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Difficile de tout faire rentrer ; nous mangeons le pique-nique avant d'embarquer, c'est autant de place de gagnée !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rab et son port </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Première pause sur la côte sud. Nous devons nous habituer à marcher pieds nus sur les galets.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deuxième pause</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Débarquement. Xavier se baigne...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j7Km3LuGEgw/V02CGwlTwfI/AAAAAAAAU4g/rqIxiBnycRMtRLZpzTbt60A5btn-spJqACKgB/s1600/P5222374.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j7Km3LuGEgw/V02CGwlTwfI/AAAAAAAAU4g/rqIxiBnycRMtRLZpzTbt60A5btn-spJqACKgB/s640/P5222374.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... tandis que Yann n'a pas encore assez pagayé! </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Solenn se fabrique des pigments, ajoute de l'eau et peint</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pendant le dîner, nous veillons sur un goéland qui s'approche de la casserole </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous remplissons 3 gros sacs de déchets </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Lundi 23 mai</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Le vent du sud annoncé, le jugo, est bien là. Les enfants font leur travail le plus à l'abri du vent possible puis nous partons nous promener à pied. Nous allons jusqu'à Kompor à 3 km où nous pouvons acheter quelques produits frais, consulter la météo et nous doucher au camping avec l'autorisation de la réceptioniste.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Xavier et Charlotte font une petite sortie en kayak mais la houle est vraiment trop forte, ils rentrent vite se sécher !</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Un des imprévus du chemin, Gwénolé est ravi, Charlotte est moins à l'aise ! </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le vent se calme, la pluie arrive, nous mangeons pour la 1ère fois sous nos ponchos-tarps.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bzhVHPMCzns/V02CeYh-LdI/AAAAAAAAU4o/qQq0EOaIyfU2HFZKenLgrYz9-b04Zxu_QCKgB/s1600/P5232396.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bzhVHPMCzns/V02CeYh-LdI/AAAAAAAAU4o/qQq0EOaIyfU2HFZKenLgrYz9-b04Zxu_QCKgB/s640/P5232396.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La "gouttière" nous sert à faire la vaisselle.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Mardi 24 mai</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous sommes en forme après une longue nuit sous la tente à l'abri de la pluie. Nous pouvons repartir, avec nos affaires humides ou mouillées. De la côte sud, nous passons à la côte ouest plus rocheuse et découpée. Nous faisons du ravitaillement à Ružići, encore au Konzum puis nous atteignons l'île Maman pour notre bivouac. Nous passons une partie de la soirée avec un jeune couple de Slovènes, Luca et Katia. Katia est photographe, elle s'en donne à coeur joie ici. Nous savourons cette soirée magnifique en bonne compagnie.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les grottes et cavités jalonnent notre route.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un serpent se chauffe au soleil, nous ne le dérangeons pas.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrivée sur l'île Maman</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La collecte de Solenn : oursins, coquillages, étoile de mer</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avec Luca et Katia </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Mercredi 25 mai</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Nous piquons vers le nord. Des dauphins nous rendent visite. Solenn n'en revient pas de les voir sauter devant elle ! Nous sommes tous charmés. En fin d'après-midi, nous admirons des petits poissons argentés qui sautent en bancs, brillants sous le soleil.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">L'installation au camping de Lopar nous prend du temps car il faut stocker les kayaks chez un loueur de bateaux au bout de la baie puis porter toutes nos affaires pour la nuit.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Attention aux oursins</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3zub8nsUB7U/V02DDtWar1I/AAAAAAAAU44/T9Qtc4PiqcsvbofE-krG4lKHEZ4rHVyUgCKgB/s1600/P5252431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3zub8nsUB7U/V02DDtWar1I/AAAAAAAAU44/T9Qtc4PiqcsvbofE-krG4lKHEZ4rHVyUgCKgB/s640/P5252431.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La chapelle saint Nicolas </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pause pique-nique sur du sable, nous apprécions !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traversée vers l'île saint Grégoire, ancienne mine de bauxite puis prison politique</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Une harde de cervidés s'est développée sur l'île.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TITO</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anciens bâtiments de cette prison à ciel ouvert</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traversée vers Lopar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baie de Lopar </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Jeudi 26 mai</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous longeons la moitié de la côte nord de Rab, qui tombe à pic dans la mer et est la plus désertique de l'île. L'eau est transparente, le vent absent, nous prenons le temps de raser les cailloux et de regarder les poissons sous nos coques.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DL3M2WiB3Bk/V02Dai2ZfaI/AAAAAAAAU48/_HxgKnN-CxYe6ZIRD5ewMD1AXkBU3TWrgCKgB/s1600/P5262466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DL3M2WiB3Bk/V02Dai2ZfaI/AAAAAAAAU48/_HxgKnN-CxYe6ZIRD5ewMD1AXkBU3TWrgCKgB/s640/P5262466.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les Allemands sont en nombre avec leurs bateaux à moteur et leurs jet-ski sur la seule grande plage du nord. Nous sommes en pleine société de consommation !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les enfants font leurs devoirs.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xTBXm5bNKtA/V02DarvzXqI/AAAAAAAAU48/whYeF_867mI9MVBi5yZnlSYdyaNymuvLACKgB/s1600/P5262473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xTBXm5bNKtA/V02DarvzXqI/AAAAAAAAU48/whYeF_867mI9MVBi5yZnlSYdyaNymuvLACKgB/s640/P5262473.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ça y est, tout est calme.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seul un bateau de pêcheurs passe encore.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WIHW72OymRc/V02Daotv_EI/AAAAAAAAU48/y-iKH7bkwyouNHwdpPJ8anJLD1Nq7MZ0gCKgB/s1600/P5262483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WIHW72OymRc/V02Daotv_EI/AAAAAAAAU48/y-iKH7bkwyouNHwdpPJ8anJLD1Nq7MZ0gCKgB/s640/P5262483.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Il fait beau, nos tentes ne tiennent pas dans les galets, ce soir nous dormons à la belle étoile.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-37pVg8X7amw/V02DasDpDjI/AAAAAAAAU48/c4fBlXnsp4ENIh5wMiSpleefu6tn1xhyQCKgB/s1600/P5262485.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-37pVg8X7amw/V02DasDpDjI/AAAAAAAAU48/c4fBlXnsp4ENIh5wMiSpleefu6tn1xhyQCKgB/s640/P5262485.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un concombre de mer</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Vendredi 27 mai</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">La journée est torride (mais l'eau encore très fraîche). Pas un souffle de vent, nous pagayons sur un miroir. Malgré la chaleur, nous savourons cette dernière journée de kayak.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Jogi vient nous récupérer au port de Misnjak. Ce soir, nous logeons dans un appartement de ses parents. Cela facilite notre logistique jusqu'au départ du ferry pour Rijeka à 7h demain.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les couleurs à 5h du matin sont incroyables </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KAXnR0e5yUM/V02D-KMZMeI/AAAAAAAAU5I/PXvOMP93-YYxdI__hYm18GJAjYOa3R0aACKgB/s1600/P5272492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KAXnR0e5yUM/V02D-KMZMeI/AAAAAAAAU5I/PXvOMP93-YYxdI__hYm18GJAjYOa3R0aACKgB/s640/P5272492.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Des cormorans se dorent la pilule</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-amuQrJK9XbA/V02D-PqPvKI/AAAAAAAAU5I/0kESGiJ822YUaeIrLRU52teIP_C75rl6QCKgB/s1600/P5272493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-amuQrJK9XbA/V02D-PqPvKI/AAAAAAAAU5I/0kESGiJ822YUaeIrLRU52teIP_C75rl6QCKgB/s640/P5272493.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cette plage est décidément trop petite pour nous et nos kayaks, nous cherchons un autre endroit pour manger.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ici, ce sera mieux.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z_bZ-sn88O0/V02D-J7j67I/AAAAAAAAU5I/8iwJRADuy0I3UjCeeDpUxTktFhIM_5LlwCKgB/s1600/P5272498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z_bZ-sn88O0/V02D-J7j67I/AAAAAAAAU5I/8iwJRADuy0I3UjCeeDpUxTktFhIM_5LlwCKgB/s640/P5272498.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les brebis sont agrippées à la paroi. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fin du tour et baignade !</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WkQY0EYpf3I/V02GEPk186I/AAAAAAAAU5Y/jw5kjVLCRcoI9V0PU4pYuq0hkktbvrVVwCKgB/s1600/P5272501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WkQY0EYpf3I/V02GEPk186I/AAAAAAAAU5Y/jw5kjVLCRcoI9V0PU4pYuq0hkktbvrVVwCKgB/s640/P5272501.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le père de Jogi nous montre son antre où il fabrique des rakis à la figue ou au miel et du vin.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-am9DIDW6J0o/V02GEEvVZlI/AAAAAAAAU5Y/loa_UaiQQU0J1jv-JS6SkOqPBd80M3z_gCKgB/s1600/P5272502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-am9DIDW6J0o/V02GEEvVZlI/AAAAAAAAU5Y/loa_UaiQQU0J1jv-JS6SkOqPBd80M3z_gCKgB/s640/P5272502.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">En hiver il a le temps de décorer ses bouteilles.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X2UgtDWdKTM/V02GEJ5-HoI/AAAAAAAAU5Y/fLJt-rBEjtEQZ25sSqvP88uHZtQlvVyIwCKgB/s1600/P5272503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X2UgtDWdKTM/V02GEJ5-HoI/AAAAAAAAU5Y/fLJt-rBEjtEQZ25sSqvP88uHZtQlvVyIwCKgB/s640/P5272503.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port et vieille ville de Rab</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-60896669377091434832016-05-29T04:28:00.002-07:002016-06-01T14:06:39.632-07:00Sur l'île de KorčulaLundi 16 mai<br />
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Nous partons de Medjugorje dans un mini-bus rien que pour nous ! Nous enchaînons ensuite un 1er ferry depuis Ploče jusqu'à Trpanj. Après un tour du port et un bout du chemin en bord de mer, nous reprenons un bus puis notre 2ème ferry pour arriver sur l'île de Korčula. Nous visons le camping mais il est en plein travaux et fermé... Nous nous rabattons sur un appartement avec cuisine et vue sur la mer en amont de la vieille ville.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hos98dqvihs/Vz3zrS55JKI/AAAAAAAAUOw/j9vuB8p-iAw96XteUPcqDMytuX-Omb33wCKgB/s1600/P5162213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hos98dqvihs/Vz3zrS55JKI/AAAAAAAAUOw/j9vuB8p-iAw96XteUPcqDMytuX-Omb33wCKgB/s640/P5162213.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Départ de Ploče</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port de Trpanj </td></tr>
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Mardi 17 mai<br />
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Nous faisons un tour dans la vieille ville de Korčula. Avec les Carrix nous nous contentons de la rue principale, toutes les autres sont en escalier ! Nous apprenons que Korčula est la ville de naissance de Marco Polo. Elle semble maintenant être un lieu de villégiature pour privilégiés.<br />
A 11h00 nous sommes sur le chemin "Marmontov put" qui mène à Pupnat dans les hauteurs de l'île. Nous croisons des randonneurs et leur guide, essuyons une averse mais devons acheter de l'eau à Pupnat faute de robinet.<br />
Ensuite arrive une des marches les pires de notre année. Le chemin qui descend vers la côte est de plus en plus étroit, rocheux, puis complètement recouvert de végétation. C'est trop difficile de remonter avec notre chargement sur le dos, nous préférons encore batailler avec les branches, les lianes épineuses et les ronces jusqu'en bas. Nous mettons 3 heures à gagner la route puis le petit port de Račisce le long des terrasses d'oliviers. Une habitante dont les chambres sont en travaux nous envoie chez sa cousine qui loue des appartements. Celle-ci nous réserve un bon accueil, le village est calme, nous pouvons nous reposer.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HDA-m5Ve_bI/V0AX_8-KsvI/AAAAAAAAUWo/-tIK5UcH2l8N4UPu_-USTXKBQ6E-jJQugCKgB/s1600/P5172231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HDA-m5Ve_bI/V0AX_8-KsvI/AAAAAAAAUWo/-tIK5UcH2l8N4UPu_-USTXKBQ6E-jJQugCKgB/s640/P5172231.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yann fait la vaisselle du petit-déjeuner dans la cuisine sous les toits </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vue depuis le balcon </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Korčula et son port</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La cathédrale </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VIdyZkD53lA/V0AX_4_YagI/AAAAAAAAUWo/sVPmYUnz7sI9qQfxaujhO8sPEw7TZKzkACKgB/s1600/P5172253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VIdyZkD53lA/V0AX_4_YagI/AAAAAAAAUWo/sVPmYUnz7sI9qQfxaujhO8sPEw7TZKzkACKgB/s640/P5172253.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le nouveau sèche poncho !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pause à Pupnat </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7koNR9jdv6I/V0AX_7bbVeI/AAAAAAAAUWo/dmh28IxgGRADNKxmUqKqGWGhWuEbmOybQCKgB/s1600/P5172262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7koNR9jdv6I/V0AX_7bbVeI/AAAAAAAAUWo/dmh28IxgGRADNKxmUqKqGWGhWuEbmOybQCKgB/s640/P5172262.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le chemin est engageant... mais pas pour longtemps !</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3gmqwQ33dmw/V0AX_zn6lYI/AAAAAAAAUWo/3oBTTp3Ov1AvpVxsPurknfN1XmKMfWRvQCKgB/s1600/P5172264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3gmqwQ33dmw/V0AX_zn6lYI/AAAAAAAAUWo/3oBTTp3Ov1AvpVxsPurknfN1XmKMfWRvQCKgB/s640/P5172264.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mais où est le chemin ? </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Račisce</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Travail sur la terrasse </td></tr>
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Mercredi 18 mai<br />
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Nous petit-déjeunons sur le balcon en regardant les gens du coin s'affairer ou discuter devant le port.<br />
Nous suivons aujourd'hui une route facile qui surplombe la mer, d'abord sauvage puis goudronnée mais peu passante. Le nombre de constructions neuves augmente jusqu'à Prigradica. Il n'y a encore aucun robinet d'eau dans le village, ni aucun replat tranquille pour bivouaquer. Des habitants téléphonent pour nous à des propriétaires d'appartement mais nous sommes encore trop tôt en saison.<br />
Nous nous rabattons sur l'unique hôtel. L'hôtelier nous attribue la dernière chambre. C'est une suite de 2 chambres doubles dont il nous autorise à occuper une seule sous prétexte que dans la 2ème il manque les draps du dessus et les couverture... Au final nous occupons discrètement les 2 chambres en utilisant nos draps sacs et nos duvets.<br />
Fidèle à lui-même, l'hôtelier ne veut pas nous donner le code du wifi. Xavier et Yann le trouvent, c'est 12345678 !<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pause pique-nique</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrivée au port de Prigradica </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous terminons quand même bien la journée en dînant sur la plage.</td></tr>
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Jeudi 19 mai<br />
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Nous cherchons l'hôtelier qui a disparu. Il revient avec du pain et nous sert généreusement des 1/4 de verres de jus de pomme et des 1/2 petites tasses de lait. Nous n'avons jamais vu cela en 11 mois !<br />
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Nous commençons par une petite route qui dessert des résidences secondaires puis nous montons vers l'intérieur des terres. Nous découvrons un autre monde, juste une ou 2 cabanes ou habitations et des cultures de vignes, oliviers et du maraîchage. Nous sommes presque surpris d'arriver à Vela Luka, petite ville au creux d'une baie.<br />
Nous trouvons près du terminal de ferry 2 chambres dans une guesthouse simple mais propre et fonctionnelle.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chantier naval au fond d'une crique </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vela Luka </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous nous sentons bien dans cette guesthouse aux meubles années 50 repeints</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Travail des enfants </td></tr>
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Vendredi 20 mai</div>
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Nous nous levons tôt car le ferry est à 6h30. Direction Split. Nous visitons la vielle ville envahie par les hordes de touristes que déversent les paquebots de croisière. Nous trouvons enfin une bouteille de gaz adaptée à notre brûleur pour remplacer le système à essence dont la pompe est hors service. Nous nous ravitaille ne en poisson et moules au marché aux poissons. </div>
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Nous logeons dans un appartement à proximité de la gare routière car nous devons partir à 9h pour prendre le bus qui nous mènera vers l'île de Rab dont nous ferons le tour en kayak pendant 6 jours.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Départ de Vela Luka</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petit-déjeuner dans le ferry </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Split</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un groupe de chanteurs traditionnels</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La cathédrale qui fut le mausolée de l'empereur Dioclétien </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les restes du palais de Dioclétien sont partout.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Statue de l'empereur </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Intérieur de la cathédrale </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">A droite intérieur du temple de Jupiter transformé ensuite en baptistère. A gauche la statue de Saint Jean Baptiste par le sculpteur Ivan Meštrovič,</span><span style="background-color: rgba(255 , 255 , 255 , 0.901961); color: #444444; font-family: "source sans pro" , sans-serif; font-size: 16.2767px; line-height: 22.8px;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">un ami de Rodin</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ces moules croates, grande coquille et chair petite, nous font penser aux "généreuses" portions de notre hôtelier d'il y a quelques jours !</td></tr>
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<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-218174231934554242016-05-18T00:45:00.000-07:002016-05-29T04:49:11.472-07:00Séjour à MedjugorjeDu jeudi 12 mai au lundi 16 mai<br />
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Nous faisons connaissance avec Milona qui nous accueille généreusement. Grande dame dans tous les sens du terme, Milona s'est installée à Medjugorje peu de temps après le début des apparitions mariales et est très proche des voyants. Elle a construit avec son mari une pension pour accueillir les pèlerins, Pax Cordis. Silvana travaille avec elle et cocoone les pèlerins, spécialement les familles.<br />
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Parmi toutes ses activités Milona est également ambassadrice de Mary's meals, une association créée au départ pour venir en aide à des enfants de Bosnie pendant la guerre et qui nourrit maintenant plus d'un million d'écoliers chaque jour dans les pays les plus pauvres.<br />
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Milona nous met en relation avec un groupe de Rennais dont nous suivons le programme du vendredi : rencontre avec Vicka, une des voyantes, puis visite de la communauté du Cénacle qui s'occupe d'accueillir et de remettre sur pied des drogués. Gérard l'accompagnateur des rennais a habité plusieurs années à Medjugorje. Nous ne pouvions rêver meilleur guide !<br />
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Le message principal de Marie à Medjugorje est "Paix, Paix du coeur, Paix dans les familles et Paix dans le monde".<br />
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Nous sommes heureux de pouvoir participer aux messes en français.<br />
Nous repartons regonflés et "pleins" de cette paix.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre maison pour quelques jours. Elle se trouve dans la campagne au milieu des vignes et des bois à 20 min à pied du sanctuaire.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vicka nous transmet les messages que Marie lui a confiés.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avec le groupe de Rennais<br />
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<span style="color: purple;">Nous avons rencontré un groupe de Rennais après la messe en français. Nous discutons avec eux et le guide nous propose de venir avec eux pour aller voir des jeunes qui se droguaient avant. Les jeunes nous raconte leur vie. J'étais très contente d'avoir des français avec nous. Ça changeait que d'être toujours en famille!!</span></div>
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<span style="color: purple;">SOLENN </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La cabane des enfants</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous montons sur la colline des 1ères apparitions. Le long du chemin, des sculptures de bronze racontent l'histoire de Marie. Ici, la scène de la visitation. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lieu de l'apparition </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oOEtbFM9Nks/Vzm7p6fjcZI/AAAAAAAAUIg/xR1g2qdoTgcI3Eg_eBEy50wBo_PimbcigCKgB/s1600/P5152197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oOEtbFM9Nks/Vzm7p6fjcZI/AAAAAAAAUIg/xR1g2qdoTgcI3Eg_eBEy50wBo_PimbcigCKgB/s640/P5152197.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La pentecôte </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hTYEGoYgy8s/Vzm7p8tPjYI/AAAAAAAAUIg/QAZ3dmLM0IIr7zCEdcQY-VnPOaSWroVZACKgB/s1600/P5152201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hTYEGoYgy8s/Vzm7p8tPjYI/AAAAAAAAUIg/QAZ3dmLM0IIr7zCEdcQY-VnPOaSWroVZACKgB/s640/P5152201.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous montons ensuite sur la colline de la croix (500m de dénivelé). Nous parcourons les 14 stations du chemin de croix.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silvana et son mari : nous leur apportons un gâteau, ils nous offrent des beignets !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dernière photo avant le départ. Milona est partie pour une conférence le vendredi matin. C'est Silvana qui a pris soin de nous.</td></tr>
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<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-35398231179785386472016-05-15T14:12:00.000-07:002016-05-18T00:45:19.493-07:00De Dubrovnik à Medjugorje<span style="font-size: large;">Vendredi 6 mai - Dubrovnik-Orasac 15 km </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Notre hôtesse nous dépose à la sortie de la ville. Pendant le trajet nous lui demandons ce qui s'est passé dans son quartier pendant la guerre de 1991. Elle ne répond pas à cette question mais nous dit que depuis l'indépendance de la Croatie c'est un désastre. Elle nous cite des problèmes pour les papiers d'identité, les versements des retraites. Elle et son mari sont orthodoxes, donc sûrement serbes. Ils n'ont plus de travail depuis 25 ans.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">La route d'aujourd'hui est facile mais fréquentée au début puis nous prenons des chemins de traverse. Jusqu'à 10 km après Dubrovnik, la côte est truffée de logements touristiques et les constructions continuent. Nous nous installons pour la nuit au camping à Orasac où nous sommes très bien. C'est une ambiance de vacances d'été au calme. Quasiment tous les clients sont des retraités en camping-car. Nous discutons avec 2 couples de St Philbert de Grandlieu en Loire-Atlantique. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sur le pont suspendu à la sortie de Dubrovnik</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pause déjeuner à Soline</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeu avec une bille </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un peu de land-art : un paquebot...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...et une maison </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ce citronnier ne semble pas récolté : 2 citrons seront pour nous</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soirée magnifique à Orasac</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oveP3nUugmM/VzSNp_UAbMI/AAAAAAAAT4A/jx3Nes2p-dcvx1b-XC2wmTxTDChnCxFmwCKgB/s1600/P5062071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oveP3nUugmM/VzSNp_UAbMI/AAAAAAAAT4A/jx3Nes2p-dcvx1b-XC2wmTxTDChnCxFmwCKgB/s640/P5062071.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous avons le luxe d'un réchaud à gaz prêté par le camping plus notre réchaud à bois </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Samedi 7 mai - Orasac-Grgurcini - 21 km - 36 km cumulés </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Le paysage aujourd'hui est plus sauvage. Quelques terrasses d'oliviers, de vignes et de lavandes sont entretenues. Nous surplombons la mer. Nous passons à Trsteno où trône un platane de 450 ans dont un marin a ramené les graines de Constantinople. Nous descendons au milieu des fleurs de toutes sortes, genêts, sauge et autres. Nous arrivons dans la baie de Slano. L'entrée est préservée mais un hôtel énorme et une marina flambant neuve ont poussé dans le bourg. Nous perdons beaucoup de temps et quelques km à trouver le camping indiqué sur notre carte et celui-ci n'est pas encore ouvert. Son propriétaire nous indique toutefois un petit camping chez l'habitant devant la mer à 1 km. C'est là que nous passons la nuit. La propriétaire nous questionne : "Vous avancez uniquement à pied ou vous prenez le bus de temps en temps ?" Elle est soulagée lorsque nous lui répondons que nous prenons le bus de temps à autre !</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Il n'y a plus qu'à tout faire rentrer dans les 2 sacs !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous apercevons plusieurs serpents ; celui-là est mort. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le platane de 450 ans</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La chapelle à l'entrée de la baie de Slano</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église de Slano</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Encore 2 feux ce soir : l'un pour un barbecue, le 2 ème est celui de notre réchaud à bois</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Dimanche 8 mai - Grgurcini-Smokvljani - 24 km - 60 km cumulés </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Nous perdons 1/2 heure à chercher la crème solaire mais réussissons à partir. Nous marchons sur une petite route goudronnée une bonne partie de la journée. Nous traversons des villages de montagne dépeuplés. Un vieux monsieur nous aide à pomper de l'eau. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">L'après-midi nous sommes sur un plateau cultivé. Nous devons faire tout un détour par la route car le chemin que nous pensions prendre pour couper n'existe plus. Des policiers croates égaient la monotonie de la départementale vide en venant nous contrôler. Ils nous demandent où nous allons ce soir. Nous pouvons heureusement leur montrer un restaurant "agro-tourizm" sur une carte touristique que nous a donnée notre hôtesse de cette nuit. Nous espérons pouvoir planter la tente à côté. Ils repartent en faisant demi-tour ; quelqu'un avait dû les prévenir de notre présence. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous arrivons bien fourbus à Smokvljani et devons faire encore 1,2 km jusqu'à l'agro-tourizm. Le gars est glacial : "no-camp", il faut aller à Slano. Nous connaissons, c'est là que nous avons dormi la nuit dernière ! Nous demandons de l'eau, il nous remplit notre bouteille et nous dit tout de suite "bye", des fois que nous aurions l'idée de rester. Les habitants d'une maison voisine sont beaucoup plus sympathiques. Ils nous remplissent nos poches à eau et nous disent que nous pouvons dormir à côté de l'église. Demi-tour vers l'église et l'école sans habitants alentours. Nous nous installons discrètement derrière l'église. Nous sommes contents d'être en zone habitée lorsque nous entendons trois coups de feu qui résonnent dans la vallée. Par la suite, seules les cloches de l'église se font entendre de très près toutes les 1/ 2 heures.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Des cerises aigres rafraîchissantes</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pause pique-nique</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pierres tombales des 13ème-14ème siècles</td></tr>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cuEy1cJT-9w/VzTI7L-8JBI/AAAAAAAAT64/0OmjmM4-gM0IQAZy59o69Ebu70m4RKVvQCKgB/s1600/P5082119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cuEy1cJT-9w/VzTI7L-8JBI/AAAAAAAAT64/0OmjmM4-gM0IQAZy59o69Ebu70m4RKVvQCKgB/s400/P5082119.JPG" width="225" /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-llN_rSPLx7g/VzTI7EjWtjI/AAAAAAAAT64/nWrRf3pcwQoaQzbDjUc6OjD9XGwkG3krACKgB/s1600/P5082122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-llN_rSPLx7g/VzTI7EjWtjI/AAAAAAAAT64/nWrRf3pcwQoaQzbDjUc6OjD9XGwkG3krACKgB/s400/P5082122.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre premier troupeau croate</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'esplanade de la chapelle, collée au cimetière, sera notre refuge pour la nuit.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bSGmOxKyQRw/VzTI7JfdPTI/AAAAAAAAT64/DEmNB7SwnecuWF62-EihCCmkXCvH16WlwCKgB/s1600/P5082131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bSGmOxKyQRw/VzTI7JfdPTI/AAAAAAAAT64/DEmNB7SwnecuWF62-EihCCmkXCvH16WlwCKgB/s640/P5082131.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nouvelle recette : les cèpes séchés achetés au Monténégro, avec ail frais, persil séché et crème UHT, accompagnent la purée</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Lundi 9 mai - Smokvljani-Neum - 18 km - 78 km cumulés </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Bon anniversaire Gwénolé !</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous partons de bonne heure pour Neum. Charlotte craint le passage de frontière car il est réservé aux locaux... Pourvu que les douaniers soient compréhensifs. Pour nous, c'est le seul passage possible car l'autre se fait sur une nationale au milieu d'un trafic de voitures et camions dense donc dangereux. Nous arrivons à la frontière vers 12h et réveillons les gardes frontières de leur sieste. Ils regardent à peine nos passeports et nous laissent passer. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous arrivons ensuite à Neum où nous nous installons dans un camping au milieu des oliviers. L'endroit est beau mais les employés, aimables comme des portes de prison. Les sanitaires sont sales, nous leurs demandons de les nettoyer mais après l'opération l'odeur n'est guère mieux ! Vu l'état des sanitaires nous négocions le prix qui est le double de celui des campings précédents... </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Ce soir nous partons fêter l'anniversaire de Gwénolé dans le centre ville. Nous trouvons un restaurant à l'accueil très chaleureux. La patronne nous questionne et nous partage un peu de son histoire. Elle a fuit la guerre en 1992 pour l'Allemagne. Depuis elle est rentrée et a réussi après 5 ans d'imbroglio administratif à racheter et remettre debout le restaurant de l'ancien camping. Elle nous régale et, en guise de cadeau, nous offre un verre de vin pour le dessert !</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Aas-qo0hsoo/VzTKGMN8z_I/AAAAAAAAT7E/jVfpAnOB2w0AIezM3yvUMEPX_7RD7lJBACKgB/s1600/P5092134.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Aas-qo0hsoo/VzTKGMN8z_I/AAAAAAAAT7E/jVfpAnOB2w0AIezM3yvUMEPX_7RD7lJBACKgB/s640/P5092134.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le poste frontière est en construction </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petite pause</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sieste au camping à l'ombre des oliviers.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nMH3zwg0hls/VzTKGAXSRBI/AAAAAAAAT7E/klsyGip2IoctOoGjyf0BLafCOFn_XSpcQCKgB/s1600/P5092141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nMH3zwg0hls/VzTKGAXSRBI/AAAAAAAAT7E/klsyGip2IoctOoGjyf0BLafCOFn_XSpcQCKgB/s640/P5092141.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les traces de la guerre sont encore visibles sur certaines habitations.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UB5DfGj2yMQ/VzTKGOxyXHI/AAAAAAAAT7E/iLLByl5yiYEH0TxOPnOmbula5Yo7cU0FQCKgB/s1600/P5092142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UB5DfGj2yMQ/VzTKGOxyXHI/AAAAAAAAT7E/iLLByl5yiYEH0TxOPnOmbula5Yo7cU0FQCKgB/s640/P5092142.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le jardin du camping</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La tortue s'invite à l'école</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HLDJMF1PRl4/VzTKGOk-f4I/AAAAAAAAT7E/bg5-WiADJ6kKFawdI6n8Pu3zXhTycyT8gCKgB/s1600/P5092147.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HLDJMF1PRl4/VzTKGOk-f4I/AAAAAAAAT7E/bg5-WiADJ6kKFawdI6n8Pu3zXhTycyT8gCKgB/s640/P5092147.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ça y est, 42 ans.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Mardi 10 mai - Neum-Capljina - 7 km - 85 km cumulés </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">La journée commence mal. Au moment de payer le camping nous demandons une ristourne car depuis la négociation, nous nous sommes rendus compte que les chauffes-eaux marchaient pas ou mal, que pour nettoyer la vaisselle, il n' y avait aucun évier à par le lavabo des toilettes puantes et sales et que le wifi n'est pas en fonctionnement... Ils ne veulent rien entendre et montrent toute leur animosité. Super ! Pour un camping qui s'appelle MIR (paix en serbo-croate) c'est tout l'inverse que nous vivons. Nous repartons énervés ! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous coupons par un petit chemin à travers la colline en portant tout notre paquetage sur le dos. Après ce bel effort nous rejoignons la petite route qui nous mène à la frontière. Le douanier bosniaque, qui parle anglais, nous demande de faire demi-tour car cette frontière est réservée aux locaux. Nous croyons d'abord à une blague mais il ne rigole pas et son collègue croate, qui ne parle pas anglais, encore moins. Nous expliquons la dangerosité des grosses routes, objectons que nous sommes citoyens de l'UE, leur demandons d'appeler leurs chefs, rien n'y fait. Lorsque nous leur indiquons la petite frontière que nous avons traversée hier, ils rigolent et nous réalisons que nous avons déjà eu de la chance d'avoir pu la passer. Nous apercevons au loin dans la plaine Metkovic, la ville que nous avions prévu d'atteindre ce soir, c'est frustrant. Nos douaniers étant butés, nous revenons à Neum par la route.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Il est 12h30. Nous n'avons plus le temps de finir la marche avant les "orages dévastateurs" prévus jeudi matin dans la région de Medjugorje. Nous décidons de nous avancer en bus et tant qu'à prendre le bus, d'aller jusqu'à Čapljina, à 15 km de Medjugorje. Nous attendons à l'ancien camping, utilisant le wifi du resto d'hier soir, jusqu'à 16h. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous passons en bus la frontière entre la Bosnie et la Croatie sur la route côtière, puis nous repassons en Bosnie après Metkovic. Nous sommes alors plus exactement en Herzégovine, peuplée de Croates. Cela valait bien la peine de se donner tout ce mal pour passer une frontière !</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A Čapljina, le chauffeur du bus, qui s'est montré intrigué par notre équipement et attentionné envers nous, nous klaxonne lorsque nous nous éloignons. Nous repérons un motel mais passons d'abord à la paroisse où il semble y avoir de l'agitation. Il y a effectivement une messe animée par des jeunes qui jouent de la mandoline. Nous y allons et à la sortie un des prêtres franciscains, le père Mile, nous accueille avec des boreks. Nous lui exposons notre périple. Nous lui posons aussi quelques questions pour comprendre comment est arrivée la guerre ici il y a 25 ans, guerre dont nous voyons les traces sur la plupart des bâtiments de la ville. Il nous raconte que selon la constitution yougoslave, les républiques de la fédération pouvaient demander leur indépendance par référendum. La Croatie et la Slovénie l'ont fait après la chute du mur de Berlin, velléité vite réprimée par l'armée yougoslave dont la majorité des officiers était serbe et rêvait d'une grande Serbie. Un peu plus tard ce sont les Bosniaques musulmans et les Croates catholiques qui se sont fait la guerre pour avoir chacun leur territoire.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Le frère Mile nous accompagne au motel que nous avions repéré et nous offre la nuit ! Nous récupérons bien après cette journée riche en imprévus.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le poste frontière qui nous est resté fermé</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Au loin la plaine de Metkovic</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'église de Čaplijna </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les villes dans lesquelles des franciscains furent tués par des communistes en 1945</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avec frère Mile</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;">Mercredi 11 mai - Čapljina-Medjugorje - 13 km - 98 km cumulés</span><br />
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Nous retrouvons frère Mile à la paroisse. Il nous sert un gros petit-déjeuner et gâte les enfants avec des chocolats. Ne voulant pas nous laisser partir sans point de chute à Medjugorje, il appelle un Français résidant là-bas. Ce Français n'est pas là mais son épouse Milona nous donne rendez-vous à l'endroit où elle peut nous loger. </div>
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Après des chants accompagnés par la guitare de frère Mile, nous nous quittons pleins d'émotion. Nous marchons facilement entre rivière et voie ferrée puis nous montons sur le plateau de Medjugorje, faisant peur à une vieille dame qui garde ses chèvres. A côté de la pension "Pax Cordis", Silvana nous ouvre la porte d'une maison spacieuse et très confortable où tout est installé pour nous, même des provisions ! Ce soir, repos et nous verrons Milona demain.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Neretva, rivière qui séparait l'empire romain d'orient et l'empire romain d'occident. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lavande et kiwi</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'église de Medjugorje </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La maison où nous logeons </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les enfants se défoulent avec leurs bâtons </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-40325728437358593902016-05-11T12:54:00.000-07:002016-05-15T14:12:54.364-07:00Kotor et DubrovnikLundi 2 mai<br />
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De la pluie est prévue pour cet après-midi, nous consacrons donc la matinée à la visite de la vieille ville de Kotor, classée au patrimoine mondial de l'humanité. Ce jour est assez calme, un seul paquebot de croisière stationne dans la baie. En saison, c'est 6, "crazy" nous dit une commerçante.<br />
Nous passons aussi à une agence de location de kayaks. Il va falloir attendre mercredi pour pagayer, le temps que la météo s'améliore.<br />
L'après-midi, la pluie est bien là, les enfants font leur travail puis Gwénolé et Charlotte vont aux vêpres de Pâques à l'église orthodoxe : presque personne mais beaux chants polyphoniques et moment de pause au milieu de nos cogitations pour la suite et fin du voyage.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre appartement au milieu des rosiers et des orangers en fleur</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enceinte de la cité de Kotor</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La tour de l'horlge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IoBCLf47_zw/VzI0XgwWODI/AAAAAAAATs4/urPAkduighI2LSVnqLwxuSP7aKLgPf4wQCKgB/s1600/P5021906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IoBCLf47_zw/VzI0XgwWODI/AAAAAAAATs4/urPAkduighI2LSVnqLwxuSP7aKLgPf4wQCKgB/s640/P5021906.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'église orthodoxe </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MmqTzFLX7sY/VzI0XisHUgI/AAAAAAAATs4/uxAd7HuQwVYJBl3p2LMx2yVkzn4SveSOQCKgB/s1600/P5021908.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MmqTzFLX7sY/VzI0XisHUgI/AAAAAAAATs4/uxAd7HuQwVYJBl3p2LMx2yVkzn4SveSOQCKgB/s640/P5021908.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le pope nous offre des oeufs colorés en nous disant une phrase qui doit signifier "Christ est ressuscité".</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_rvf_s4y2SQ/VzI0XlzuiMI/AAAAAAAATs4/RRFZdd80nF8H6Ag1VrIiTaBsX0JLtc7DwCKgB/s1600/P5021910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_rvf_s4y2SQ/VzI0XlzuiMI/AAAAAAAATs4/RRFZdd80nF8H6Ag1VrIiTaBsX0JLtc7DwCKgB/s640/P5021910.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'intérieur baroque de l'église catholique tranche avec les décors orthodoxes que nous avons l'habitude d'admirer depuis des mois.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-it-whsGhbQ8/VzI0XmpX78I/AAAAAAAATs4/YoXy9faskl8lmU25JcLJAGzf6L7CpBuoQCKgB/s1600/P5021919.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-it-whsGhbQ8/VzI0XmpX78I/AAAAAAAATs4/YoXy9faskl8lmU25JcLJAGzf6L7CpBuoQCKgB/s640/P5021919.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Xavier souffle ses bougies sur son gâteau d'anniversaire qu'il n'avait pas pu avoir avant faute de pâtisseries.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2QqIqMkxsQo/VzI0Xp6lwGI/AAAAAAAATs4/1m0TAuhHO3wA69mxEqvfcdXVNQRzkrpfwCKgB/s1600/P5021921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2QqIqMkxsQo/VzI0Xp6lwGI/AAAAAAAATs4/1m0TAuhHO3wA69mxEqvfcdXVNQRzkrpfwCKgB/s400/P5021921.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les oeufs de pâques donnés par le pope, plus un donné par un mendiant à Solenn</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Mardi 3 mai<br />
<br />
Nous consacrons une bonne partie de la journée à l'étude de la carte de la Croatie et des liaisons en ferries. Nous contactons des loueurs de kayaks pour découvrir également la Croatie par la mer.<br />
En fin d'après-midi, Gwénolé et les enfants partent à l'assaut de la chapelle du XIVème qui surplombe la ville. Ils arpentent la vieille ville pour trouver le passage parmi les ruelles mais à chaque passage, une table pliante barre le chemin... C'est payant... Ils finissent par dégoter un passage sans "péage", plus raide mais en dehors des sentiers battus !<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MtpRYdbiDmU/VzI6guUmgbI/AAAAAAAATtQ/2fwgEEjvm0EqguxMKHp3OOEwRUDy6ZXNACKgB/s1600/P5031934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MtpRYdbiDmU/VzI6guUmgbI/AAAAAAAATtQ/2fwgEEjvm0EqguxMKHp3OOEwRUDy6ZXNACKgB/s640/P5031934.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vues de la ville et de la baie depuis l'église qui surplombe l'ancienne cité</td></tr>
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Mercredi 4 mai<br />
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Le temps est correct, nous partons explorer la baie en kayak ! Nous pagayons une bonne partie de la journée dans les bouches de Kotor. Nous admirons les montagnes tombant dans la mer ainsi que des villages préservés. Par endroits, des complexes hôteliers yougoslaves abandonnés se décomposent.<br />
Sur le retour, nous avons une poussée d'adrénaline quand nous apercevons un des bateaux de croisière gigantesque se diriger vers nous alors que nous changeons de rive... Le retour se termine sans problème : nous filons car le vent est avec nous !<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DH_NwIfDh1U/VzI9T_PcSJI/AAAAAAAATtk/I1v0E1GSVQwAOuRN-CRvOMWbS1Y84XfSgCKgB/s1600/P5041943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DH_NwIfDh1U/VzI9T_PcSJI/AAAAAAAATtk/I1v0E1GSVQwAOuRN-CRvOMWbS1Y84XfSgCKgB/s640/P5041943.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un des paquebots qui accostent chaque jour devant la ville</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Village de Stoliv...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sjG3BXi7s9Q/VzI9T14REhI/AAAAAAAATtk/atbxekCfd9wVqqYVdi1STBhM5Ku3ZcYqACKgB/s1600/P5041949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sjG3BXi7s9Q/VzI9T14REhI/AAAAAAAATtk/atbxekCfd9wVqqYVdi1STBhM5Ku3ZcYqACKgB/s640/P5041949.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... avec son port.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0reDr8B9KF8/VzI9T-YRidI/AAAAAAAATtk/NsiitmW6kY0iwOEk91Qniy0omJbpQtIowCKgB/s1600/P5041952.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0reDr8B9KF8/VzI9T-YRidI/AAAAAAAATtk/NsiitmW6kY0iwOEk91Qniy0omJbpQtIowCKgB/s640/P5041952.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pause pique-nique au pied de la chapelle Notre-Dame des anges</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S07VEw4zHbU/VzI9T3B6B4I/AAAAAAAATtk/tvz93VsYmaYuztKaq36YG_RKztDxtge6gCKgB/s1600/P5041957.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S07VEw4zHbU/VzI9T3B6B4I/AAAAAAAATtk/tvz93VsYmaYuztKaq36YG_RKztDxtge6gCKgB/s640/P5041957.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous changeons de rive pour atteindre l'île Notre-Dame du Rocher</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IvndVbNplAw/VzI9TwUJAwI/AAAAAAAATtk/RIARIhsNrX49JJpoKxEAmY2hvpzzi44dQCKgB/s1600/P5041959.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IvndVbNplAw/VzI9TwUJAwI/AAAAAAAATtk/RIARIhsNrX49JJpoKxEAmY2hvpzzi44dQCKgB/s640/P5041959.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'île saint-Georges </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous nous changeons avant de partir visiter.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rBsKMLN6VJw/VzI9T_11ZpI/AAAAAAAATtk/gF6vsr9uOhgHPsbnKy0KGM5WDoYE3enxwCKgB/s1600/P5041970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rBsKMLN6VJw/VzI9T_11ZpI/AAAAAAAATtk/gF6vsr9uOhgHPsbnKy0KGM5WDoYE3enxwCKgB/s640/P5041970.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vue sur Perast, un des villages les mieux préservés de la baie</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B6xl0bt4fNU/VzI9T7Wfv2I/AAAAAAAATtk/YTYQeaY3StkcaKXcF3uML5YjX5azq5jLACKgB/s1600/P5041972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B6xl0bt4fNU/VzI9T7Wfv2I/AAAAAAAATtk/YTYQeaY3StkcaKXcF3uML5YjX5azq5jLACKgB/s640/P5041972.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église de Prcanj </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LijBBxLQJY0/VzI9T2mUobI/AAAAAAAATtk/SgYd4az1OREvfn3Hu5GEzF1szayqddQxwCKgB/s1600/P5041973.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LijBBxLQJY0/VzI9T2mUobI/AAAAAAAATtk/SgYd4az1OREvfn3Hu5GEzF1szayqddQxwCKgB/s640/P5041973.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port de Prcanj </td></tr>
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Jeudi 5 mai<br />
<br />
Nous quittons Kotor pour Dubrovnik par le bus de 8h30. Le lever est donc matinal !<br />
Nous passons la frontière pour la Croatie sans encombre. A la gare routière de Dubrovnik, les rabatteurs sont efficaces. Gwénolé a à peine le temps de retirer quelques Kuna (monnaie locale) que Charlotte a déjà trouvé notre chambre avec cuisine ! Notre logeuse vient nous chercher en voiture à 2 portes mais nous arrivons à faire rentrer l'équipage et les bagages. Elle semble très pressée, nous supposons qu'elle ne déclare pas son activité.<br />
Le gain de temps à la gare routière nous permet de consacrer l'après-midi à la visite de la vieille ville de Dubrovnik.<br />
Demain nous entamerons 6 jours de marche itinérante vers Medjugorje, le "Lourdes" de Bosnie-Herzégovine.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Depuis le bus nous apercevons la côte de Drubovnik</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qnX05NmuZm0/VzJFEuOXWSI/AAAAAAAATuI/ynhuFTcd5YgKz3aAr0_vCA8yM6bFydEYQCKgB/s1600/P5051982.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qnX05NmuZm0/VzJFEuOXWSI/AAAAAAAATuI/ynhuFTcd5YgKz3aAr0_vCA8yM6bFydEYQCKgB/s640/P5051982.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dubrovnik en vue !</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xHKFICgg0MU/VzJFEl8PKVI/AAAAAAAATuI/XVlH-Es-Zs4l-3nXDZNavdHqXHb0etEXQCKgB/s1600/P5051983.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xHKFICgg0MU/VzJFEl8PKVI/AAAAAAAATuI/XVlH-Es-Zs4l-3nXDZNavdHqXHb0etEXQCKgB/s640/P5051983.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre studio donne sur un stade et un couvent.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Partie de UNO avec Nina, la fille de la voisine.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saint Blaise, le patron de la ville</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloître des franciscains </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'église des jésuites</td></tr>
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Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-32706688831130654562016-05-05T14:02:00.000-07:002016-05-11T12:54:40.175-07:00Au Monténégro du lac Skadar aux bouches de KotorLundi 25 avril<br />
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Nous quittons l'appartement de Tirana et allons à la gare routière. Un grand bus (français) attend le départ pour Shköder. Nous pouvons y mettre nos chariots en soute sans problème. 3/4 d'heures après, nous sommes partis. Dans les faubourgs de Tirana, nous apercevons les mêmes étalages de nourriture et d'habits qu'à Elbasan. Un vélo triporteur est rempli de volailles vivantes.<br />
De Tirana à Elbasan, la route forme un corridor urbanisé. Nous voyons beaucoup de magasins de meubles et de pneus et de grands hôtels neufs.<br />
Un jeune homme en formation de professeur des écoles entame la conversation dans le bus. Il nous indique à Shköder le lieu de départ du minibus pour le Monténégro.<br />
Une heure après, nous quittons l'Albanie, pays où nous nous sentions si bien. Nous faisons la connaissance d'un jeune japonais qui voyage pendant 4 mois. Il va à Berlin mais pas en France car "c'est trop cher".<br />
Le chauffeur du minibus nous trouve un chauffeur de taxi officieux à la frontière, pour nous conduire jusqu'au village de Donji Murici au bord du lac Skadar où nous reprendrons la marche. Pour l'instant il pleut et nous commençons à réviser nos projets de camping. Notre chauffeur pinaille sur la monnaie à nous rendre. Le couple qui tient le petit complexe touristique camping/chambres/restaurant nous demande 70 euros pour 2 lits doubles dans 2 minuscules chambres qui puent la cigarette, sans petit déjeuner et avec les sanitaires à 100 m dehors. Il y a un grand auvent. Nous leur disons que nous allons camper dessous. 1/4 d'heure après, le vent se lève et nous sommes très vite transis. Nous ne pouvons pas installer nos tentes sous l'auvent car le sol est en béton et celles-ci ne sont pas autoportantes. Gwénolé et Yann les montent alors sous la pluie. En prime la pompe de notre réchaud à essence nous lâche définitivement. Nous sommes obligés de faire appel à nos hôtes pour cuire notre riz mais ils ne desserrent pas plus les dents. Des êtres aussi rustres dénotent avec la beauté de cet endroit.<br />
Au final, la pluie s'arrête, le vent nous évite d'être dans l'humidité et nous passons une bonne nuit.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Site de Donji Murici. Lieu superbe à l'accueil glacial !</td></tr>
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Mardi 26 avril - reprise de la marche - 22 km<br />
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Il fait beau, nous profitons enfin de la vue imprenable sur le lac. Après un petit déjeuner "muesli-lait concentré sucré" vite avalé, nous remontons sur la route qui surplombe le lac. Un grand-père accompagné de sa petite fille nous salue en souriant. Ouf, ils ne sont pas tous comme les hôtes que nous venons de quitter ! Un couple s'active sous un arbre à dépecer un mouton accroché par les pieds à une branche.<br />
Après une pause pique nique dans un village où quelques vieux nous dévisagent, nous redescendons au bord du lac à Virpazar. Le village est joli, nous trouvons rapidement à nous loger grâce aux rabatteurs à l'affût de touristes. C'est d'ailleurs ici que nous entendons à nouveau parler français.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petit déjeuner au bord du lac</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vues imprenables !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le minaret du village</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un groupe de motards allemands que nous prenons d'abord pour des douaniers se prennent en photo devant le paysage.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puit taillé dans le roc pour les bergers et leur troupeau. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous apprenons quelques mots de monténégrois, en fait du serbo-croate que nous avons déjà utilisé l'été dernier et en Macédoine. Nous cherchons une supérette mais il n'y a plus aucun commerce dans ces villages qui surplombent le lac. Nous finissons nos dernières victuailles (pistaches, olives, fromage, figues sèches et biscuits).</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les villages que nous croisons ont subit un fort exode rural. Les maisons sont souvent occupées par des personnes âgées. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KiEEkoAWKNU/VyZjKIusiYI/AAAAAAAATH4/ls9K9a-BqNc8WaH6qzUbM5CblUw_5lnAgCKgB/s1600/P4261762.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KiEEkoAWKNU/VyZjKIusiYI/AAAAAAAATH4/ls9K9a-BqNc8WaH6qzUbM5CblUw_5lnAgCKgB/s640/P4261762.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La viticulture associée au tourisme contribue par endroits au maintien d'une vie villageoise.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lm3OUiYNkTw/VyZjKJctNbI/AAAAAAAATH4/4Z-KUhf-BDws5Jd4t3fy2zyfsq-IzOPUwCKgB/s1600/P4261765.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lm3OUiYNkTw/VyZjKJctNbI/AAAAAAAATH4/4Z-KUhf-BDws5Jd4t3fy2zyfsq-IzOPUwCKgB/s640/P4261765.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La taille des papillons ! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kVKMFLlCvZs/VyZjKHPQgJI/AAAAAAAATH4/pybqPBfLonAizeYmoVM80NhPhBTlFxVDwCKgB/s1600/P4261769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kVKMFLlCvZs/VyZjKHPQgJI/AAAAAAAATH4/pybqPBfLonAizeYmoVM80NhPhBTlFxVDwCKgB/s640/P4261769.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre arrivée à Virpazar </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m_HkJNXxPNw/VyZjjSIyfiI/AAAAAAAATIE/60Jsnf0Wk3Aiq-c6ltKG-XT-E41OleuKwCKgB/s1600/P4261776.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m_HkJNXxPNw/VyZjjSIyfiI/AAAAAAAATIE/60Jsnf0Wk3Aiq-c6ltKG-XT-E41OleuKwCKgB/s640/P4261776.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous dînons sur la terrasse de notre studio.</td></tr>
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Mercredi 27 avril - 12 km - 34 km cumulés<br />
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Nous partons, après les devoirs scolaires, avec la pluie... La météo indique une accalmie en fin de matinée et des averses pour la nuit. L'objectif du jour est à 10km à Komarno. Nous remontons vers les montagnes, les panoramas s'ouvrent et la campagne est toujours aussi sauvage. A part une voiture de temps à autre, les seuls sons que nous entendons (à part le bruit que nous faisons nous-même! ) sont les chants d'oiseaux.<br />
Nous arrivons à Komarno et tentons de trouver un lieu de bivouac. Nous demandons à une 1ère personne si nous pouvons planter la tente dans une prairie fauchée, sans succès. Elle nous renvoie vers une autre habitation. Nous allons donc vers la maison indiquée, une personne âgée en sort et nous demande si nous voulons acheter du vin. Elle nous le fait goûter mais il est vinaigré. Nous finissons par lui demander si nous pouvons planter la tente mais elle reste évasive... Nous décidons alors de nous poser sur un plateau à côté de la route mais la 1ère dame qui nous surveillait nous fait signe de partir et fait semblant d'appeler la police... Vraisemblablement nous ne sommes pas les bienvenus dans ce village. Nous partons donc et remontons vers le village abandonné de Zastek. Nous avons à peine le temps de monter les tentes que la pluie arrive et ne nous quittera pas de la soirée et de la nuit. Nous dînons froid sous une arcade de maison qui fuit et nous couchons, nous demandant bien comment se passera la nuit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5s_OprjLWpo/Vyd2xeDJxpI/AAAAAAAATMo/xaRD-7QpNX42okruWR90Wp9GkmfU3yNcwCKgB/s1600/P4271780.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5s_OprjLWpo/Vyd2xeDJxpI/AAAAAAAATMo/xaRD-7QpNX42okruWR90Wp9GkmfU3yNcwCKgB/s640/P4271780.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le lac Skadar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous ne nous lassons pas de l'esthétique des potagers.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Village de Komarno</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sur la montée vers Zastek, nous admirons les contours du bout du lac </td></tr>
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Jeudi 28 avril - 11 km - 45 km cumulés<br />
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Bon anniversaire Xavier ! Xavier fête ses 13 ans !<br />
Nos tentes ont tenu malgré la nuit sous une pluie battante. Merci Décathlon et Helsport ! Pour la deuxième fois en 1 ans, nous petit-déjeunons sous la tente. Nous profitons d'une accalmie pour tout plier. Nous partons trempés sous le crachin mais, au bout d'une heure de marche, la pluie finit par s'arrêter et nous, nous commençons à sécher... Un peu avant midi, nous apercevons un panneau miel (med en monténégrin). Après délibération nous décidons d'aller voir. La ferme surplombe un des méandres du fleuve qui coule vers le lac, le lieu est superbe et sauvage. Un homme nous accueille avec du raki, du vin et un jus de pomme pour les enfants. Nous voyons un panneau indiquant qu'ils louent des chambres. Après discussion et négociation, nous décidons de rester. En plus des chambres,<br />
ils font table d'hôte et ont un canot à disposition pour se promener sur la rivière. Que rêver de mieux pour fêter l'anniversaire de Xavier !<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4S_ou58W26E/Vyd3SNdmdII/AAAAAAAATMw/RXy8CpCFFF0k8k7UwwuK6f7yo00bVDVlgCKgB/s1600/P4281788.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4S_ou58W26E/Vyd3SNdmdII/AAAAAAAATMw/RXy8CpCFFF0k8k7UwwuK6f7yo00bVDVlgCKgB/s640/P4281788.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Encore un petit-déjeuner müesli-lait concentré mais sous la tente cette fois</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On plie vite pendant une accalmie</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H9M4nguj-8s/Vyd3SJm3GCI/AAAAAAAATMw/ClRc616BSDEH-_WC9yhRUZrx80zMB1fEgCKgB/s1600/P4281793.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H9M4nguj-8s/Vyd3SJm3GCI/AAAAAAAATMw/ClRc616BSDEH-_WC9yhRUZrx80zMB1fEgCKgB/s640/P4281793.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'accueil chaleureux et la beauté du paysage nous fera arrêter au village de Lipovik.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scions du jambon !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nos hôtes produisent du miel, du vin et cultivent des oignons. Les oignons et les pommes de terre semblent être la base de tout potager monténégrin qui se respecte.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le village de Lipovik</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Après les pluie des ces derniers jour, il nous faut écoper avant d'embarquer </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ljrQ9FGbdYU/Vyd3SN9yh_I/AAAAAAAATMw/oREdDHAK0S4bG975YsGkhb_2_crMuUh5QCKgB/s1600/P4281828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ljrQ9FGbdYU/Vyd3SN9yh_I/AAAAAAAATMw/oREdDHAK0S4bG975YsGkhb_2_crMuUh5QCKgB/s640/P4281828.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ce soir, crudités, truites, frites, vin maison...et oignons du potager !</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V5p49tbfVzM/Vyd3SAc-lZI/AAAAAAAATMw/_6hfEi_kdscK4dYHokau_kiS7rZfwHMZQCKgB/s1600/P4281829.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V5p49tbfVzM/Vyd3SAc-lZI/AAAAAAAATMw/_6hfEi_kdscK4dYHokau_kiS7rZfwHMZQCKgB/s640/P4281829.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nos hôtes : Dushka et Drago</td></tr>
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Vendredi 29 avril - 24 km - 69 km cumulés<br />
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Bien lestés par les beignets que Dushka nous a préparés, nous remercions nos hôtes et descendons vers Rijeka Crnojévica. Ce village moribond fut une place de marché importante. Nous découvrons à cette occasion que nous suivons depuis Virpazar une ancienne voie caravanière. Nous nous approvisionons dans une mini-supérette puis montons sur une route goudronnée.<br />
Sur le chemin nous parlons avec des Français pour la 1ère fois depuis Thessalonique. Daniel et Juth habitent Paris, ils ont pas mal bourlingué dans leur jeunesse et visitent le Monténégro en voiture. Ils repartent en nous laissant des bêtises de Cambrai, quelques biscuits de Venise et des barre de céréales bio.<br />
Un peu plus loin un homme qui vend des "rakis arrangés" nous arrête. Nous nous posons donc pour déjeuner pendant qu'Andréa nous fait goûter ses rakis aux figues ou à la noix. Lui boit surtout et grignote un peu de lard. Il nous dit qu'il a travaillé en Lybie et en Angleterre, qu'il est allé 5 fois à Paris mais ne nous dit pas pourquoi ! Avant que nous reprenions le chemin, il nous offre une tisane et du café. Merci pour ce moment partagé ! Nous remontons ensuite vers le plateau de Cetinje. Un peu avant d'atteindre ce dernier, les enfants prennent un petit chemin sur 300 m pendant que Charlotte et Gwénolé prennent la route de 1 km. Un cyclo arrive en soufflant. C'est Markus, un allemand originaire d'un village près du Bodensee. Il est hyperchargé avec 130 kg de bagages ! Il voyage depuis 4 ans et est sur le chemin du retour. Il a voulu quitter pour un temps la société de consommation et l'omniprésence des smartphones et autres outils technologiques.<br />
Faute de bivouac possible, nous nous dirigeons ensemble vers Cetinje à la recherche d'un endroit pour passer la nuit. Après la recherche du camping qui n'existe pas, des personnes nous proposent une maison au confort sommaire avec 2 chambres : une pour nous et une pour Markus. Nous partageons le repas avec lui. Nous échangeons des anecdotes et nos impressions d'Européens de l'ouest sur les différents pays que chacun a traversé (accueil, gestion des constructions, des déchets, corruption, aides sociales...).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Des beignets (priganitsa) qui nous rappellent étrangement les loukoumades d'Athènes. Ils se mangent avec le miel et la confiture de prunes maison.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drago et Dushka ont fait cuire une quarantaine d'oeufs dans des pelures d'oignons rouges pour Pâques (orthodoxe).</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrivée à Rijeka Crnojévica </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daniel et Juth</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andréa et...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... sa cabane</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Samedi 30 avril - 15 km - 84 km cumulés<br />
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De bon matin, Markus et nous préparons notre route. Lui, pour aller vers Herceg Novi, nous, pour atteindre Kotor avant le retour de la pluie prévu le sur-lendemain.<br />
Nous visitons Cetinje (qui fut capitale du royaume du XVème au XIXème siècle) avant de reprendre notre ascension vers les montages. Ce soir, nous serons 700 m plus haut à 1300 m. Nous alternons portions de routes goudronnées et chemins et arrivons sur le plateau de Lovcen au coeur du parc national du même nom. Nous posons nos tentes à côté d'une chapelle dans la zone des hôtels et aires de pique-nique.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JgO7gvAPfuc/VykNVEn9MVI/AAAAAAAATNQ/Fq0GTyC2umkeySgq46VTjgTJzRorApX7ACKgB/s1600/P4301846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JgO7gvAPfuc/VykNVEn9MVI/AAAAAAAATNQ/Fq0GTyC2umkeySgq46VTjgTJzRorApX7ACKgB/s640/P4301846.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Séminaire orthodoxe de Cetinje </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre maison au matin avec le vélo de Markus </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XK_OoN_R9ZU/VyuLi1vWqVI/AAAAAAAATNs/-p_1QK0quR028ZDmiBFkw-s0JWMHyCHggCKgB/s1600/P4301852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XK_OoN_R9ZU/VyuLi1vWqVI/AAAAAAAATNs/-p_1QK0quR028ZDmiBFkw-s0JWMHyCHggCKgB/s640/P4301852.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monastère de Cetinje</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pQCgOJUQrIs/VykNVCHM4aI/AAAAAAAATNQ/gqtU-IInplwYVydgRq90lXxLM_BYoodyQCKgB/s1600/P4301855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pQCgOJUQrIs/VykNVCHM4aI/AAAAAAAATNQ/gqtU-IInplwYVydgRq90lXxLM_BYoodyQCKgB/s640/P4301855.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La chapelle où son enterrés les monarques.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cQXGN4gC-qU/VykNVPeNxfI/AAAAAAAATNQ/qdq4Jx-rZBABoR8U6_FxDrLHCVKRgZkEgCKgB/s1600/P4301858.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cQXGN4gC-qU/VykNVPeNxfI/AAAAAAAATNQ/qdq4Jx-rZBABoR8U6_FxDrLHCVKRgZkEgCKgB/s640/P4301858.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quelques maisons témoignent de la grandeur passée de la ville.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7ZpnTdC5RIY/VykNVDJmbPI/AAAAAAAATNQ/HU4XQT0AZbEBlUXDuBNBQ3kncDe6XRghQCKgB/s1600/P4301859.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7ZpnTdC5RIY/VykNVDJmbPI/AAAAAAAATNQ/HU4XQT0AZbEBlUXDuBNBQ3kncDe6XRghQCKgB/s640/P4301859.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ancienne ambassade de France</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TEhTnRNH7CA/VykNVDazEVI/AAAAAAAATNQ/TTS8w7QoRp4XybqkmC7JXdvvBZlTB5OFgCKgB/s1600/P4301861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TEhTnRNH7CA/VykNVDazEVI/AAAAAAAATNQ/TTS8w7QoRp4XybqkmC7JXdvvBZlTB5OFgCKgB/s640/P4301861.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le kebab des herbivores </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre campement pour la nuit.</td></tr>
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Dimanche 1er mai - 15 km - 99 km cumulés<br />
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Il a fait froid cette nuit, les tentes ont gelé mais pas nous heureusement !<br />
Les nuages s'installent, nous plions vite les tentes et petit déjeunons mais la pluie annoncée ce soir par la météo est déjà là... et à 1400 m l'eau est froide. Aujourd'hui nous devons atteindre Kotor qui est au niveau de la mer Adriatique soit 1400 m de descente. Scène pathétique ce matin : 3 4X4 nous dépassent dans le brouillard. Les touristes assis à l'intérieur essayent de prendre des photos à travers les vitres embuées...<br />
Une accalmie au moment du déjeuner et l'abri du départ d'une tyrolienne nous permettent de sècher un peu et de nous réchauffer avant de repartir. Au loin, nous voyons déjà le fjord de Kotor. La descente vers Kotor est superbe mais les lacets sont interminables. Nous rêvons d'un endroit sec pour ce soir et les jours à venir. Solenn et Yann "sauvent" les escargots en les déplaçant sur les côtés du chemin.<br />
Arrivés à Kotor, nous sonnons à la porte de plusieurs logements sans succès. Il faut dire que nous sommes le dimanche de Pâques orthodoxe... Tout à coup, alors que nous essuyons un 4ème échec, une voiture s'arrête bien décidée à nous aider. Le conducteur hallucine de voir que nous débarquons là sans rien avoir réservé. Quelques coups de téléphone plus tard, il nous trouve un appartement très agréable, pas cher avec des hôtes accueillants. De quoi reprendre des forces en attendant l'amélioration du temps. Nous souhaitons aussi pouvoir explorer le fjord en kayak !<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le fjord de Kotor est en vue.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre abri pour déjeuner </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kotor vu d'en haut</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les escargots ici ont la coquille à l'horizontale</td></tr>
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<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-52821495263957925342016-04-24T14:25:00.001-07:002016-05-05T14:03:05.988-07:00Séjours à Elbasan et Tirana <span style="font-size: large;">Nous sommes contents et fiers d'avoir terminé la voie Egnatia. Nous nous posons d'abord à Elbasan puis à Tirana, que nous rejoignons en bus. Nous restons quelques jours dans chaque ville pour préparer la suite. Il nous faut identifier le chemin que nous prendrons au Monténégro puis en Croatie. Nous profitons de ce séjour pour visiter ces deux villes.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Lundi 18 avril</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'ancienne ville d'Elbasan est entourée de murailles dont les soubassements datent de l'époque romaine. Ceux-ci ont été ensuite remaniés sous l'empire byzantin puis l'empire ottoman.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La tour de l'horloge ottomane date du XVème siecle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mosquée du roi du XVème siècle </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Ruelles de la vieille ville </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un grand parc est au coeur de la ville...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... paradis des joueurs de dominos </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yAUupeDbc0o/Vxun58sao9I/AAAAAAAASuc/F2QV0BMb-qki9mz6n5QAERtzjTbkuZ8VACKgB/s1600/P4181665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yAUupeDbc0o/Vxun58sao9I/AAAAAAAASuc/F2QV0BMb-qki9mz6n5QAERtzjTbkuZ8VACKgB/s640/P4181665.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tous les immeubles communistes du centre sont désormais multicolores (une idée du maire qui est peintre !)<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">. Cela donne du peps à cette partie d'Elbasan. Chaque recoin de la ville a ses bars et donne une impression de décontraction malgré la précarité d'une grande partie des Albanais.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chaque quartier a son marché. Les paysans des montagnes viennent y vendre leur production sur le trottoir.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous terminons notre journée par la visite de la cathédrale catholique. Des activités sont organisées à côté pour les enfants roms. A notre arrivée, ils jouent au foot.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les prêtres de l'église sont italiens. L'un est arrivé en 1991, dès l'ouverture du pays. Les deux Giuseppe nous accueillent chaleureusement, nous posent plein de questions et nous servent un gâteau à peine sorti du four. A croire qu'ils nous attendaient ! </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 26.1342px;">Avec le lait cru vendu par les dames de la montagne, Charlotte et Xavier essayent une recette de crème caramel.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Mardi 19 avril</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le Musée ethnographique de la ville. La maison date du XVIIIème siècle. Le rez de chaussée, autrefois utilisé comme réserve et lieu de travail, retrace les métiers qui ont marqué la ville : fabrication de laine, soie, savon, poterie, tissage, joaillerie. L'étage reconstitue les pièces de vie de l'époque. </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Orphelinat tenu par les soeurs missionnaires de la charité. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Elles accueillent 20 enfants entre 0 et 6 ans, certains d'entre eux ont un handicap. Elles essayent au maximum de les faire adopter avant leur départ vers une autre structure à partir de 6 ans. Nous sentons que l'ambiance entre les enfants, les personnes qui aident les soeurs et les soeurs elles mêmes est bonne.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Mercredi 20 avril</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Le matin, nous partons pour Tirana en bus. Après une petite heure de trajet, nous arrivons dans une ville aérée avec beaucoup d'espaces verts. Cela tranche avec l'image grise que nous avions suite à des lectures sur ce pays. Le ville est pleine de vie et semble dynamique. Certains quartiers sont moins bien dotés mais l'ensemble nous donne une impression plutôt positive. Il est vrai que Tirana est une petite capitale (600 à 800 000 habitants).</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vue depuis notre appartement</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">De nombreuses enclaves de petites maisons sont sont conservées (ou en sursis...)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Jeudi 21 avril</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Partout dans la ville nous voyons des références à mère Theresa et Jean-Paul II. Le pays a beaucoup souffert de la dictature communiste. Les religions étaient interdites et tous les citoyens étaient surveillés. La plupart des prêtres chrétiens ou imams ont été tués. Sur les 3000 prêtres catholiques que comptait l'Albanie seulement 30 ont survécu. Le régime communiste est tombé en 1992 suite à la chute du mur de Berlin. Pendant 50 ans, Enver Hoxha a martyrisé son peuple, le pays s'en remet tout juste. </span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FvHOQ0d8A0Q/VxuqDy1NqfI/AAAAAAAASu4/jCQ5FiGy_RAtgzNI88n-gUE7HyYgn6GqgCKgB/s1600/P4211701.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FvHOQ0d8A0Q/VxuqDy1NqfI/AAAAAAAASu4/jCQ5FiGy_RAtgzNI88n-gUE7HyYgn6GqgCKgB/s640/P4211701.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XW9FtmxaT3I/VxuqD857VyI/AAAAAAAASu4/9u87I9Q6ZSAunoM2j8QcMXM51NmSPljnACKgB/s1600/P4211703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XW9FtmxaT3I/VxuqD857VyI/AAAAAAAASu4/9u87I9Q6ZSAunoM2j8QcMXM51NmSPljnACKgB/s640/P4211703.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Musée d'histoire de Tirana </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La nouvelle cathédrale orthodoxe</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--ubc7k28fhk/VxurMoaAWFI/AAAAAAAASvE/LKv8Qb0vcEQFUEUbGHn1Wm58UTRhkJvggCKgB/s1600/P4211709.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--ubc7k28fhk/VxurMoaAWFI/AAAAAAAASvE/LKv8Qb0vcEQFUEUbGHn1Wm58UTRhkJvggCKgB/s640/P4211709.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avec tous ces dessins animés en allemand ou en anglais, ils vont vite être bilingues !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morceau du mur de Berlin </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'université, sur la place mère Theresa</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Vendredi 22 avril</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Nous partons pour la journée à Durres, ville de départ ou d'arrivée de la via Egnatia. Durres se trouve sur la côte adriatique. Bien que le front de mer soit massacré par un enchaînement d'immeubles, la ville ne manque pas de charme et possède des restes romains, byzantins et ottomans.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forum romain</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Muraille byzantine </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Reste du théâtre romain </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tour vénitienne </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Samedi 23 avril</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le marché regorge de chaussures d'occasion.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Statue de Skenderberg au milieu de la place du même nom. Au loin le dôme et le clocher de la cathédrale orthodoxe.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pont byzantin</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ancienne assemblée nationale </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reste d'un mur d'enceinte de la citadelle de Tirana </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathédrale orthodoxe </td></tr>
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Dimanche 24 avril </div>
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Nous assistons à la messe en anglais à la cathédrale Saint Paul. Saint Paul fut le premier évangélisateur de l'Albanie, arrivé par la via Egnatia ! Un prêtre camerounais est heureux de pouvoir parler français avec nous.</div>
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Les pluies d'orages se succèdent toute la journée. Nous en profitons pour préparer notre parcours. Un grand merci à Vlatko, de Zalaz Monténégro, pour ses conseils !</div>
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Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-45819338100356717592016-04-21T08:16:00.001-07:002016-04-24T14:26:24.426-07:00Sur la via Egnatia en Albanie de Lin à ElbasanMercredi 13 avril - 9km - 308 km cumulés<br />
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Nous quittons définitivement le lac d'Ohrid. Dans les champs de Lin, les habitants sont nombreux à s'activer. Les plus grands champs sont labourés par un tracteur mais sur la plupart des parcelles, jeunes et vieux bêchent à la main et nous verrons cela jusqu'à Elbasan. Le désherbage semble être fait tout le temps à la main dans cette région.<br />
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Ramadan, notre chauffeur de taxi de la veille, nous remonte jusqu'à l'hôtel à côté de la frontière, départ de l'étape du jour. Nous nous posons le long du chemin pour une pause pique-nique un peu après le bourg de Prrenjas. C'est là que nous rencontrons Nazmi et sa famille. Rencontre mémorable grâce à leur gentillesse. Ils nous accueillent comme si nous étions de leur famille. Rencontre précieuse car nous avons eu le temps de partager un peu de leur mode de vie qui n'existera peut-être plus dans quelques années, pour le meilleur et pour le pire.<br />
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<span style="color: red;">Nous étions en train de manger quand un groupe d'adolescents est arrivé. Un d'eux, Aleks, est venu nous demander pourquoi nous étions là. Nous lui avons répondu que nous faisions la via Egnatia. Il nous a traduit que son oncle nous proposait de venir chez lui. Ils nous ont amenés dans une petite maison de campagne avec quelques poules, un chien, un chat et une vache. Ils avaient aussi plusieurs petits champs et un potager. Ils nous ont offert du café pour Papa et un jus de cerise pour Maman et nous 3. Ils nous ont proposé de dormir chez eux. Nous leur avons répondu oui. Maman a proposé à Katmira (la mère d'un des adolescents) de l'aider à faire le borek aux orties, une sorte de feuilleté. C'était son rêve d'apprendre à cuisiner les orties ! Nous avons mangé comme des rois! Le matin ils ont fait bouillir du lait de vache qui venait de sortir du pis! Délicieux! </span><br />
<span style="color: red;">YANN ET XAVIER </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La vaisselle au camping </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nos premiers bunkers albanais. Ils sont partout. Le dictateur Enver Hoxha en avait fait construire 700 000. Cela fut une des causes de la ruine économique du pays.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uGHiyZ97Adw/VxTCPr8Vs3I/AAAAAAAASVA/DN6w8xjY1vYtlym92hP1XWeM4rASjIu3ACKgB/s1600/P4131504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uGHiyZ97Adw/VxTCPr8Vs3I/AAAAAAAASVA/DN6w8xjY1vYtlym92hP1XWeM4rASjIu3ACKgB/s640/P4131504.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un jet d'eau d'un stand de "lavazh" de voitures. Sur les routes en terre, celles-ci se salissent très vite ! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KU-CqS95tWQ/VxTCPlxKNyI/AAAAAAAASVA/7dMVtd5YvnoU354e4yEapgUSiLyrXkntwCKgB/s1600/P4131507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KU-CqS95tWQ/VxTCPlxKNyI/AAAAAAAASVA/7dMVtd5YvnoU354e4yEapgUSiLyrXkntwCKgB/s640/P4131507.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'usine communiste de Prrenjas se réhabilite </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IVtulp_3kms/VxTCPnbXfKI/AAAAAAAASVA/COmOWsdIQCUM74MqauNhYjikRruRdJqygCKgB/s1600/P4131508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IVtulp_3kms/VxTCPnbXfKI/AAAAAAAASVA/COmOWsdIQCUM74MqauNhYjikRruRdJqygCKgB/s640/P4131508.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dans la famille Golemi. Des petites voisines viennent nous voir.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qakas0-npkI/VxTCPq9PlEI/AAAAAAAASVA/0jxyab8lFPs1b3myjpb2YxwdFx-bnV6LACKgB/s1600/P4131509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qakas0-npkI/VxTCPq9PlEI/AAAAAAAASVA/0jxyab8lFPs1b3myjpb2YxwdFx-bnV6LACKgB/s640/P4131509.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un paysage très harmonieux</td></tr>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tsvg0kE7Qq0/VxTCPqcOepI/AAAAAAAASVA/6oymEXUOSzk6lL5JIQ4OUrVa2uekiWHmwCKgB/s1600/P4131511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tsvg0kE7Qq0/VxTCPqcOepI/AAAAAAAASVA/6oymEXUOSzk6lL5JIQ4OUrVa2uekiWHmwCKgB/s640/P4131511.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ajN-Zr-_JVE/VxTCPkw-5SI/AAAAAAAASVA/eRDCt3xAKO8o1GZ5Rh-qvAi7F2XcuTH0QCKgB/s1600/P4131512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ajN-Zr-_JVE/VxTCPkw-5SI/AAAAAAAASVA/eRDCt3xAKO8o1GZ5Rh-qvAi7F2XcuTH0QCKgB/s640/P4131512.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Xhuljan nous montre les alentours </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ai3zuMU5Nxw/VxTCPtcIKpI/AAAAAAAASVA/COC6E3vUYSAuGSHTAoHGCCQtGuewF2NpACKgB/s1600/P4131513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ai3zuMU5Nxw/VxTCPtcIKpI/AAAAAAAASVA/COC6E3vUYSAuGSHTAoHGCCQtGuewF2NpACKgB/s640/P4131513.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prrenjas</td></tr>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z7QlU_vTiQw/VxTCPr9RiRI/AAAAAAAASVA/CgxevknVnPs_mC1sqUvvbxHM9qKDbVRZACKgB/s1600/P4131517.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z7QlU_vTiQw/VxTCPr9RiRI/AAAAAAAASVA/CgxevknVnPs_mC1sqUvvbxHM9qKDbVRZACKgB/s640/P4131517.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8YygvwQI_yA/VxTCPtlh-KI/AAAAAAAASVA/YbwSVzaAAXY6fOGM4FjpZXTuamrdBMAoACKgB/s1600/P4131518.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8YygvwQI_yA/VxTCPtlh-KI/AAAAAAAASVA/YbwSVzaAAXY6fOGM4FjpZXTuamrdBMAoACKgB/s640/P4131518.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les restes de la via Egnatia </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9ubTMqapQqQ/VxTCPk4tr5I/AAAAAAAASVA/beZFaNPubG4Ls8ByGHSVn9N2M9lUowL9ACKgB/s1600/P4131519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9ubTMqapQqQ/VxTCPk4tr5I/AAAAAAAASVA/beZFaNPubG4Ls8ByGHSVn9N2M9lUowL9ACKgB/s640/P4131519.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les matériaux naturels sont privilégiés car ils ne coûtent rien : clôture en branches épineuses. C'est aussi un bon moyen pour protéger les troupeaux du loup.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jI31XazTiLA/VxTCPgT8LHI/AAAAAAAASVA/aZutR-RV_s04WHXUdm6e3ZcPoYV96kp0wCKgB/s1600/P4131522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jI31XazTiLA/VxTCPgT8LHI/AAAAAAAASVA/aZutR-RV_s04WHXUdm6e3ZcPoYV96kp0wCKgB/s640/P4131522.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Xhuljan apprend à jouer au joker.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zgqs6ZYBlJw/VxTCPvHZB4I/AAAAAAAASVA/GbeTMM1hOY0-I1cFKBlpd5BppZ7ovMDRwCKgB/s1600/P4131524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zgqs6ZYBlJw/VxTCPvHZB4I/AAAAAAAASVA/GbeTMM1hOY0-I1cFKBlpd5BppZ7ovMDRwCKgB/s640/P4131524.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 14.6776px;">K</span>atmira étale la pâte du borek</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QWawP2VIOtg/VxTCPkBl5gI/AAAAAAAASVA/r4di4ILjnOEKm98qx0qDKAosVgW23pLxwCKgB/s1600/P4131525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QWawP2VIOtg/VxTCPkBl5gI/AAAAAAAASVA/r4di4ILjnOEKm98qx0qDKAosVgW23pLxwCKgB/s640/P4131525.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Borek avant cuisson</td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nm7DSKpIgY4/VxTCPhyNlFI/AAAAAAAASVA/Lcw1p0Xn4oouoBxjEwjw7EX5vgkhwlg9ACKgB/s1600/P4131526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nm7DSKpIgY4/VxTCPhyNlFI/AAAAAAAASVA/Lcw1p0Xn4oouoBxjEwjw7EX5vgkhwlg9ACKgB/s640/P4131526.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V0RdGtw-QK8/VxTCPs677OI/AAAAAAAASVA/BL7TAVUHWxMvcnO5lSC47Mk6uvTeTMnrwCKgB/s1600/P4131527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V0RdGtw-QK8/VxTCPs677OI/AAAAAAAASVA/BL7TAVUHWxMvcnO5lSC47Mk6uvTeTMnrwCKgB/s640/P4131527.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RzkC1__TZmM/VxTCPmMQm0I/AAAAAAAASVA/hJMb24dDyg8c0zv8wFolOG2mmYi5cjRhQCKgB/s1600/P4131528.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RzkC1__TZmM/VxTCPmMQm0I/AAAAAAAASVA/hJMb24dDyg8c0zv8wFolOG2mmYi5cjRhQCKgB/s640/P4131528.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On cuit le dessus grâce à cette cloche recouverte de cendres chaudes</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s9Awi2ef-cE/VxTCPo86PyI/AAAAAAAASVA/iM_SFblBv-wE0Bv-3MByUWxxIjnn7ZHrACKgB/s1600/P4131530.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s9Awi2ef-cE/VxTCPo86PyI/AAAAAAAASVA/iM_SFblBv-wE0Bv-3MByUWxxIjnn7ZHrACKgB/s640/P4131530.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puis le dessous</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yS6THxYtg0s/VxTCPo9m9tI/AAAAAAAASVA/ZiBuFOWkD2cbgJD9odFtlsQ6yo8nnFVRwCKgB/s1600/P4131532.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yS6THxYtg0s/VxTCPo9m9tI/AAAAAAAASVA/ZiBuFOWkD2cbgJD9odFtlsQ6yo8nnFVRwCKgB/s640/P4131532.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Partie de Uno avec des voisins, Soulema et Costa </td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dnfCc5sLBAg/VxTCPreGX_I/AAAAAAAASVA/34ZXTDMJNxoJ5PvnsS2tzled_pmzJTitwCKgB/s1600/P4131534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dnfCc5sLBAg/VxTCPreGX_I/AAAAAAAASVA/34ZXTDMJNxoJ5PvnsS2tzled_pmzJTitwCKgB/s640/P4131534.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_oAfdX_sH58/VxTCPh9JthI/AAAAAAAASVA/XqoWh6Vedzo_VVxH3zxG61dKW3doFlvrwCKgB/s1600/P4131535.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_oAfdX_sH58/VxTCPh9JthI/AAAAAAAASVA/XqoWh6Vedzo_VVxH3zxG61dKW3doFlvrwCKgB/s640/P4131535.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le festin du soir dont nos hôtes mangeront les restes : soupe au riz, cuisses de poulet, poivrons grillés en conserve du jardin, borek aux orties, crème aux herbes et fromage de la vache, avec du pain maison.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8x9bDZwXszk/VxTCPnlZTjI/AAAAAAAASVA/d3bAgXUe5OczCOyASzrhVHSXZndZfCzTgCKgB/s1600/20160413_192348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8x9bDZwXszk/VxTCPnlZTjI/AAAAAAAASVA/d3bAgXUe5OczCOyASzrhVHSXZndZfCzTgCKgB/s640/20160413_192348.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gezuar, tchin tchin en albanais !</td></tr>
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Jeudi 14 avril - 21km - 329 km cumulés<br />
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Après le petit-déjeuner, il faut bien finir par nous quitter. Nous n'avons qu'une ( grosse !) tablette de chocolat (français !) à offrir. Nous nous embrassons tous. Aleks séche 2 heures de cours avec l'accord de ses profs pour nous dire au revoir. Lui et Xhuljan nous accompagnent sur les premiers mètres. Nous nous reverrons au moins par Skype !<br />
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Nous descendons jusqu'à Berzeshté dans la vallée de la rivière Skumbin puis nous grimpons petit à petit. Les sources sont partout et contribuent à rendre le paysage idyllique. Le peu d'ordures présent indique que les gens vivent ici à l'ancienne.<br />
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A Dardhë nous sommes accueillis par les villageois dans l'école. Nous mangeons dans le petit café restaurant. Les habitants défilent pour nous apercevoir. Nous nettoyons un des lavabos de l'école pour nous laver à l'eau froide.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BHz62gCvKVA/VxTDJ8-AbRI/AAAAAAAASVU/MX1sXbSmo7wiUZ5tVUligVHCffQP52uKQCKgB/s1600/P4141537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BHz62gCvKVA/VxTDJ8-AbRI/AAAAAAAASVU/MX1sXbSmo7wiUZ5tVUligVHCffQP52uKQCKgB/s640/P4141537.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Re-festin ce matin : lait, yaourt et fromage de la vache, oeufs des poules, confiture de figues et de cerises maison, pain maison</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OgEHDrGUqhg/VxTDJ5GxRgI/AAAAAAAASVU/2DI7dNnkCfkLsZZtUu_hRfui0Du2kljOQCKgB/s1600/P4141540.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OgEHDrGUqhg/VxTDJ5GxRgI/AAAAAAAASVU/2DI7dNnkCfkLsZZtUu_hRfui0Du2kljOQCKgB/s640/P4141540.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le temps est à la pluie mais nous passons entre les gouttes </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wj2-STGIWiw/VxTDJ_fZG9I/AAAAAAAASVU/CnToX-2P4aQDvMt5hC3E3dje2uPMPaSawCKgB/s1600/P4141542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wj2-STGIWiw/VxTDJ_fZG9I/AAAAAAAASVU/CnToX-2P4aQDvMt5hC3E3dje2uPMPaSawCKgB/s640/P4141542.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le marché de Berzeshté : animaux, fruits et légumes, quincaillerie. Les vendeurs et acheteurs repartent à pied ou avec leur âne bâté ou dans leur vieille Mercedes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-76nLt7AvxKk/VxTDJ-gzFJI/AAAAAAAASVU/QuUZ4R5yogMuVLnMmCoSkDv1tmKYeNH4ACKgB/s1600/P4141544.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-76nLt7AvxKk/VxTDJ-gzFJI/AAAAAAAASVU/QuUZ4R5yogMuVLnMmCoSkDv1tmKYeNH4ACKgB/s640/P4141544.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sabri nous offre à boire dans sa ferme traversée par la via Egnatia</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9rdE5RbRY2g/VxfRAH-GE7I/AAAAAAAASmw/prEGu4HudEo63VC-I0d0z4yBYc9nZdyRgCKgB/s1600/P4141549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9rdE5RbRY2g/VxfRAH-GE7I/AAAAAAAASmw/prEGu4HudEo63VC-I0d0z4yBYc9nZdyRgCKgB/s640/P4141549.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Même si la campagne est plus propre qu'en Macédoine certains endroits sont souillés </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EitHQqOT9jA/VxfRAFMB3II/AAAAAAAASmw/tVY_zoA8NA8KMiulon4_SiICPfRj1QiSwCKgB/s1600/P4141555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EitHQqOT9jA/VxfRAFMB3II/AAAAAAAASmw/tVY_zoA8NA8KMiulon4_SiICPfRj1QiSwCKgB/s640/P4141555.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre premier panneau de la via Egnatia </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-csD3jawsz6M/VxfRAJo_xrI/AAAAAAAASmw/uCKr73pKsjQQ6Dzm_o_ICKcAruJgUv8twCKgB/s1600/P4141573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-csD3jawsz6M/VxfRAJo_xrI/AAAAAAAASmw/uCKr73pKsjQQ6Dzm_o_ICKcAruJgUv8twCKgB/s640/P4141573.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ce monsieur installe un 2ème panneau de la via Egnatia</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L5nfWuEfdFU/VxfRABxvUxI/AAAAAAAASmw/w3DUfekmaEI1JiAA3B03WFDlrlRDMRD1QCKgB/s1600/P4141575.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L5nfWuEfdFU/VxfRABxvUxI/AAAAAAAASmw/w3DUfekmaEI1JiAA3B03WFDlrlRDMRD1QCKgB/s640/P4141575.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Une crotte de loup</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t_U0bIhYfhI/VxTDJ564HtI/AAAAAAAASVU/TP5PAucbhZMFXjtOQhk9QlB-SYViwViRgCKgB/s1600/20160414_210854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t_U0bIhYfhI/VxTDJ564HtI/AAAAAAAASVU/TP5PAucbhZMFXjtOQhk9QlB-SYViwViRgCKgB/s640/20160414_210854.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'écriture du carnet</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un peu d'éducation au respect de l'environnement </td></tr>
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Vendredi 15 avril - 19km - 348km cumulés<br />
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Nous laissons la classe pour les élèves à 7h30. Nous prenons le petit-déjeuner en face puis glanons dans l'unique boutique et les 2 cafés de quoi pique-niquer.<br />
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Nous avons à peine le temps de nous échauffer dans un raidillon que Aïdar nous fait signe de venir chez lui. Il est habile pour communiquer avec un peu de grec, des gestes et les quelques mots de notre lexique. Il nous confirme la présence de loups et de serpents. Pour les premiers, nous avions repéré des crottes ainsi qu'un collier à pointes sur un chien. Pour les seconds, nous l'avions lu dans notre guide. Nadjmia nous apporte des cerises au sirop et du yaourt piquant. Les 2 vaches, les poules et les moutons sont autour de nous. Nous faisons signe que notre estomac est plein pour qu'elle ne vide pas ses réserves pour nous mais elle va quand même nous chercher 5 oeufs qu'elle emballe dans du papier journal.<br />
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Nous reprenons notre marche 3/4 d'heures plus tard émerveillés par l'accueil des Albanais. A midi nous nous permettons de refuser une invitation à boire un café, Gwénolé a déjà des palpitations ! Nous le regrettons vite car le jeune homme parlait anglais, nous aurions pu lui poser des questions.<br />
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L'après-midi nous rencontrons plusieurs troupeaux et leurs bergers puis plus personne. Par endroit, l'érosion a réduit le chemin à une sente trop étroite pour les troupeaux et les ânes. Nous devons alors porter les chariots pour éviter que la roue parte dans la pente. Nous sommes soulagés lorsque nous retrouvons un chemin large.<br />
Au bord de la rivière, nous nous arrêtons pour la nuit à l'hôtel Balkans. Le serveur a vécu 7 ans à Hambourg, il parle bien allemand.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La classe est chauffée au bois.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Au revoir !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chez Aïdar et Nadjmia</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g29eR7O6d2c/VxTD6ec8R8I/AAAAAAAASVo/8VrVDq76gSomjHa3eryghDeH2Nxb9SvDACKgB/s1600/P4151604.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g29eR7O6d2c/VxTD6ec8R8I/AAAAAAAASVo/8VrVDq76gSomjHa3eryghDeH2Nxb9SvDACKgB/s640/P4151604.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lorsque nous nous apercevons que les 5 oeufs achetés ce matin sont crus comme les 5 oeufs donnés par Nadjmia, il n'y a plus qu'à faire une omelette avant qu'elle se fasse dans le sac !</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V6NNw74P9fg/VxTD6Ti_rZI/AAAAAAAASVo/k4tqjVe9C-M1sHADKWMXcBkQf0OpDkYfwCKgB/s1600/P4151605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V6NNw74P9fg/VxTD6Ti_rZI/AAAAAAAASVo/k4tqjVe9C-M1sHADKWMXcBkQf0OpDkYfwCKgB/s640/P4151605.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un bunker grand format nous offre son ombre, à défaut d'arbre </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1_jKFhc1vzI/VxfP2LeFn_I/AAAAAAAASmk/zuPZhej1hLYCdqJwoZqlCFzFEDU_90YAgCKgB/s1600/P4151607.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1_jKFhc1vzI/VxfP2LeFn_I/AAAAAAAASmk/zuPZhej1hLYCdqJwoZqlCFzFEDU_90YAgCKgB/s640/P4151607.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La voie romaine est bien visible</td></tr>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uiyLN1GNmtU/VxfP2N4ivfI/AAAAAAAASmk/qJbPwddMr_UtVwXaHubtErIjnSrWH_P-wCKgB/s1600/P4151608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uiyLN1GNmtU/VxfP2N4ivfI/AAAAAAAASmk/qJbPwddMr_UtVwXaHubtErIjnSrWH_P-wCKgB/s400/P4151608.JPG" width="225" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K5ohT01yQ8c/VxfP2NyN_QI/AAAAAAAASmk/XaToWkia8egNyXy2WYG6aFnAESdiQY1CgCKgB/s1600/P4151609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K5ohT01yQ8c/VxfP2NyN_QI/AAAAAAAASmk/XaToWkia8egNyXy2WYG6aFnAESdiQY1CgCKgB/s400/P4151609.JPG" width="225" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passage délicat</td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C9I8t5okOnM/VxfP2NXkr2I/AAAAAAAASmk/mqL4RHegGEgOxTEBDJBCfhXjJskLsnhYACKgB/s1600/P4151619.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C9I8t5okOnM/VxfP2NXkr2I/AAAAAAAASmk/mqL4RHegGEgOxTEBDJBCfhXjJskLsnhYACKgB/s640/P4151619.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chaque lopin de terre est utilisé.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3LcROfCBaqU/VxfP2OsGeTI/AAAAAAAASmk/NlaQx1oOlEkTtIZqPemjwpKb6awHhJa3QCKgB/s1600/P4151623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3LcROfCBaqU/VxfP2OsGeTI/AAAAAAAASmk/NlaQx1oOlEkTtIZqPemjwpKb6awHhJa3QCKgB/s640/P4151623.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Des terrasses d'oliviers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La rivière Skumbin</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dîner à l'hôtel </td></tr>
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Samedi 16 avril -15km - 363km cumulés<br />
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Nous partons après avoir cherché pendant 1/2 heure les lunettes de soleil de Xavier, achetées une semaine plus tôt. Elles étaient dans le gros sac de Charlotte !<br />
Après avoir rejoint la rivière, nous prenons de l'altitude en observant régulièrement des tortues. La petite boutique sur laquelle nous comptions pour le pique-nique est fermée et vide. Il faut faire avec ce qui nous reste de la veille : un peu de pain, un petit morceau de fromage et des biscuits. Nous dépensons cette énergie dans une descente qui ressemble à un torrent asséché. Nous nous faisons doubler par un homme et sa mule bâtée portant des sacs LIDL. Elle glisse car nous sommes sur son passage habituel.<br />
Sur le chemin, un grand serpent traverse devant nous. Peu après, une source nous revigore. Nous arrivons au village de Shushicë où nous pouvons enfin faire le plein à la supérette.<br />
Après un km sur la route en terre, nous nous posons pour la nuit sur un emplacement qui a toujours servi de lieu de repos pour les marchands et leurs caravanes. La sympathique famille qui tient le bar nous autorise à camper. Des sources ajoutent au charme des vieux arbres. A la nuit tombée, tous les clients sont partis et nous pouvons nous laver discrètement. Il ne nous reste plus qu'à écouter des chants d'oiseaux qui nous sont inconnus.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La patronne avait accepté de nous loger tous dans une chambre !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Au fond Elbasan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre lieu de bivouac pour la nuit.</td></tr>
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Dimanche 17 avril - 6km - 369km cumulés<br />
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Ce matin, les enfants sont efficaces pour ranger leur tente. Ils trouvent encore le temps de jouer avec l'eau !<br />
Nous partons sur la route poussiéreuse. Les minibus bondés et une charrette à cheval côtoient les vieilles Mercedes.<br />
A Hajdaran nous tombons sur un homme habillé tout en blanc. Sa montre, son sac, ses chaussures et même son vélo sont blancs ! Il parle anglais, est ingénieur et a été missionnaire évangélique. Il nous interpelle : "Etes-vous chrétiens ?"<br />
"Oui. Nous revenons de Béthléem."<br />
"Ah, mais peut importe où on est, Jésus est avec chacun ! Vous voulez aller au paradis ou en enfer ?"<br />
"Ben, on espère au paradis."<br />
"D'après vous, quel % de personnes ira au paradis ?"<br />
Nous : "On n'en sait rien."<br />
Lui :"100% car Dieu peut tout. Si vous lisez la Bible et priez, Dieu vous exauce !"<br />
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Là-dessus il enfourche son vélo et nous arrivons dans les faubourgs d'Elbasan. Notre première impression est celle du 1/3 monde. Tout se vend à même le trottoir : habits et chaussures usagés, pièces détachées de tout, volailles vivantes, poussins dans des cartons ... Nous nous faufilons là-dedans en restant bien groupés. Après quelques centaines de mètres le centre ville offre un visage plus moderne mais a conservé le marché central et tous les petits marchés qui ont fait la réputation d'Elbasan.<br />
Les seuls hébergements sont quelques hôtels chers. Aussi, nous réservons au dernier moment un appartement sur internet via le wifi que nous captons devant l'office de tourisme fermé. La dame qui nous accueille s'occupe de l'appartement pour le compte de sa fille qui est à l'étranger. Ses 2 fils sont aussi expatriés, à Florence, avec 2 bons métiers comme elle nous le dit en italien, informaticien et architecte.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Contraste des véhicules.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maison dans le vieil Elbasan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On profite de la cuisine pour faire une soupe de légumes.</td></tr>
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<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-3878223991577812952016-04-17T12:58:00.000-07:002016-04-21T10:17:36.951-07:00Sur la Via Egnatia autour du lac d'OhridAprès 3 semaines itinérantes depuis Thessalonique, nous restons 4 jours à Ohrid. Outre la visite de la ville, nous profitons de la pause pour nous alléger un peu et faire quelques achats devenus indispensables. Nous envoyons ainsi un paquet en France avec les affaires les plus chaudes dont nous n'aurons plus besoin, 5 kg en moins ! Nous achetons des nouvelles chaussures pour Yann, un pyjama d'été pour Xavier et un T-shirt pour Gwénolé. Nous avons également un imprévu ... une dent à soigner pour Gwénolé car le plombage a sauté au premier déjeuner pris à Ohrid. Comme par hasard, le propriétaire de l'appartement est un jeune dentiste ! Il prend en charge le soin. Gwénolé a même droit à un traducteur au début de la séance, un Macédonien divorcé d'une Française.<br />
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Jeudi 7 avril<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nos 1ères glaces de la saison </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église sainte Sophie</td></tr>
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A droite, saint Méthode et saint Cyrille. Ils ont doté les Slaves d'un alphabet, le glagolithique, et ont ainsi traduit les textes religieux.<br />
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Vendredi 8 avril<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les<span style="font-size: 12.8px;"> ruelles du vieux Ohrid</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église Saint Jean </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église Saint Clément.<br />
Ohrid est aussi appelée la Jérusalem des Balkans en raison de ses multiples églises. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un baptistère byzantin du 5ème siècle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">D'un côté, un lapin qui mange une carotte, symbole du paganisme. De ce côté, le lapin mange une grappe de raisin, symbole du christianisme.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La croix gammée utilisée à d'autres fins au 20ème siècle a d'abord été employée dans les décors des églises byzantines pour rappeler la croix du Christ. Plus anciennement encore, cette croix était symbole de chance.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avec Veska Mandovska, notre guide francophone pour cette visite de saint Clément et des 3 restes de basiliques byzantines adjacentes </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saint Clément d'Ohrid, disciple des saints Cyrille et Méthode, toujours représenté avec une grosse tête !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eglise de la Sainte Mère de Dieu avec ses fresques du 13ème siècle. </td></tr>
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Samedi 9 avril<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0BVM4qlP29A/Vwl5dPwszbI/AAAAAAAAR1o/P2vtFZ6Ax6E6M11U2lYk9yHD9jGJ9TZSg/s1600/P4091378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0BVM4qlP29A/Vwl5dPwszbI/AAAAAAAAR1o/P2vtFZ6Ax6E6M11U2lYk9yHD9jGJ9TZSg/s640/P4091378.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porte d'entrée du château fort du 16ème siecle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ses tours dominent la vieille ville et le lac.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VdDA49oPVSM/Vwl5dKu7J2I/AAAAAAAAR1o/4gUoujr9_2gKIy8MsDTBqX6TVWAJFSw8A/s1600/P4091384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VdDA49oPVSM/Vwl5dKu7J2I/AAAAAAAAR1o/4gUoujr9_2gKIy8MsDTBqX6TVWAJFSw8A/s640/P4091384.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Au pied du château, une vielle femme cultive son potager.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jEuFsaiWlv4/Vwl5dFOkdVI/AAAAAAAAR1o/cGjFW1YpQqI_8Y-C0bpaLGFSAUcMnMJlw/s1600/P4091388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jEuFsaiWlv4/Vwl5dFOkdVI/AAAAAAAAR1o/cGjFW1YpQqI_8Y-C0bpaLGFSAUcMnMJlw/s640/P4091388.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous poursuivons notre découverte en longeant la rive est du lac. Au loin nous voyons la vieille ville et son château.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vEBHgDpwbAo/Vwl5dN_mn5I/AAAAAAAAR1o/pNhoT87wvuoURJIaW_v4IHiNQoPg953Ww/s1600/P4091392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vEBHgDpwbAo/Vwl5dN_mn5I/AAAAAAAAR1o/pNhoT87wvuoURJIaW_v4IHiNQoPg953Ww/s640/P4091392.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous croisons une salamandre ! </td></tr>
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Dimanche 10 avril<br />
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Nous participons à la messe avec la petite communauté catholique de rite latin d'Ohrid : quelques Croates, Polonais, Philippins. Les Macédoniens catholiques sont pour la plupart gréco-catholiques (de rite byzantin).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-42eDkIw5W34/Vwvu6xv-ExI/AAAAAAAAR5M/U5iYH3QqdV8FQO44GF79P13gbTnqgt1eg/s1600/P4101402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-42eDkIw5W34/Vwvu6xv-ExI/AAAAAAAAR5M/U5iYH3QqdV8FQO44GF79P13gbTnqgt1eg/s640/P4101402.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le musée national d'Ohrid se trouve dans une maison du 19ème qui appartenait à une riche famille de commerçants. Certains salons ont été restaurés.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">A gauche, une borne romaine de la via Egnatia</span><br />
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Lundi 11 avril - 14 km - 282 km cumulés<br />
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Départ d'Ohrid en fin de matinée pour Struga. Nous sommes contents de reprendre la route. Nos jambes commençaient à fourmiller ! Notre itinéraire passe sur l'ancienne route ( la nouvelle passe un peu plus au nord) mais est encore beaucoup emprunté par les voitures. Les paysages sont cependant superbes car nous longeons le lac.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vmR6_UnIah8/VwvzJmAMfRI/AAAAAAAAR64/H9C6RXSyGWYhFGbRhC_IHWYNTex7NbXug/s1600/P4111411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vmR6_UnIah8/VwvzJmAMfRI/AAAAAAAAR64/H9C6RXSyGWYhFGbRhC_IHWYNTex7NbXug/s640/P4111411.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monastère Saint Erasme où nous faisons notre pause déjeuner.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port de Struga où, cas rare, une rivière sort du lac.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GCVQZKq1s7Y/Vwv0G0KLwwI/AAAAAAAAR7A/ZO1k5x8wJ6ghHU15MBlVrrRgSrZd99uBQ/s1600/P4111426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GCVQZKq1s7Y/Vwv0G0KLwwI/AAAAAAAAR7A/ZO1k5x8wJ6ghHU15MBlVrrRgSrZd99uBQ/s640/P4111426.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous trouvons à nous loger dans une des multiples chambres chez l'habitant proposées. La vue du balcon est superbe !</td></tr>
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Mardi 12 avril - 17 km - 299 km cumulés<br />
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Nous continuons à admirer le lac depuis un chemin piétonnier puis une route tranquille. Ce côté du lac près de la frontière albanaise est peu urbanisé. Des habitants binent leurs vignes à la main au-dessus de la route.<br />
Nous nous arrachons au spectacle du lac en grimpant 400 mètres de dénivelé. Un berger nous montre qu'en haut nous aurons des problèmes. Il devait parler de la frontière, que nous passons rapidement !<br />
Un chauffeur de taxi nous inspire plus confiance qu'un autre. Nous lui demandons de nous déposer à Lin, le premier village albanais au bord du lac. Ce village n'est pas sur la via Egnatia mais il est doté d'un camping et nous pourrons rester encore un peu près du lac.<br />
Ramadan notre chauffeur parle allemand. Nous comprenons qu'il a été marinier à Vienne. Pour nous faire plaisir, il nous fait parcourir la rue du village en voiture, visite factice : nous et les habitants nous regardons à travers les vitres.<br />
Le patron de la supérette est sympathique. Il offre des glaces à l'eau aux enfants. Nous découvrons ce que peut être la nourriture industrielle albanaise : lait UHT contenant 49 % de petit lait, miel à 0% de miel (uniquement sirop de glucose et arôme) ou yaourt constitué de grumeaux de yaourt dans du petit lait !<br />
Nous nous dirigeons à pied vers le camping qui est à 2 petits kilomètres du village. Nous assistons à des scènes champêtres. Des habitants rentrent avec une ou deux vaches pour la traite, d'autres bêchent leurs champs, des ânes entravés par une pierre broutent sur le chemin. Nous avons changé de pays !<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nouveau style de nénuphar</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Monastère de la nativité de Marie</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église rupestre de saint Athanase</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camping avec des alignements de caravanes impressionnants</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cette partie du bord du lac est encore occupée par des potagers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pause déjeuner au bord du lac dans le jardin de la chapelle Sainte Hélène.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sympa la vipère d'eau !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église de l'archange Michel.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passage de la frontière albanaise </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Village de Lin. Sur son sommet se trouvent les ruines d'une église byzantine avec de belles mosaïques. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre camping sur les bords du lac et sa plage artificielle </td></tr>
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<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-52245804888149100632016-04-06T13:50:00.001-07:002016-04-17T12:58:58.380-07:00Sur la via Egnatia de Bitola à OhridVendredi 1er avril - 12 km - 212 km cumulés<br />
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Nous partons en milieu de matinée, c'est le carnaval des enfants. Cela nous permet de passer inaperçus au milieu des papillons, des iron men et des princesses des neiges... Nous grimpons dans un faubourg puis dans des pâtures. Incroyable ! Les gens marchent ! En 2 mois en Grèce nous n'avons croisé aucun marcheur à part les bergers et ici à côté de Bitola jeunes et vieux se baladent. Le plus incroyable est que nous allons être accompagnés. Voilà de quoi dissiper nos premières impressions de méfiance après la frontière !<br />
La chapelle à côté de laquelle nous pique-niquons est un point de ralliement de randonneurs. Après leur marche du matin, il se retrouvent devant le petit refuge pour boire le café et le raki. Marian, ancien officier qui parle un peu anglais et français, et Draguista arrivent les premiers. Ils nous parlent de leurs enfants, Alexandra et Alexander (Alexandre le Grand a vraiment la cote chez les Macédoniens !). Alexander est dentiste mais ne trouve pas de travail. Marian nous dit qu'il faut la carte du parti pour ça.<br />
Slave, bon montagnard, puis Ljubco et sa femme arrivent peu après. Ljubco parle bien français. Il nous amène tout d'abord à quelques centaines de mètres pour nous montrer une portion bien conservée de la via Egnatia que nous n'avions pas vue. Ensuite, lui et Slave nous annoncent qu'ils marchent avec nous cet après-midi ! Le temps passe vite en leur compagnie. Ljubco nous montre les plantes comestibles, cite leur nom latin, nous montre une crotte de loup (composée de poils), nous fait découvrir les nombreuses sources et chante des chansons françaises ou, à notre demande, l'hymne de la Macédoine (comme dirait Solenn, la Marseillaise de la Macédoine). Ljubco est en forme malgré son pontage cardiaque. Slave est plus discret mais ne rate pas une occasion de nous aider dans les passages pentus ou boueux. Il nous quitte à Brushnik. Ljubco nous dit au revoir à Dihovo, notre étape de ce soir.<br />
Nous campons dans le beau jardin de la villa Dihovo en joyeuse compagnie. Toutes les chambres du village sont occupées par des jeunes participants à une session "Erasmus plus" d'éducation au développement durable.<br />
Pece, notre hôte, a été footballeur professionnel au Danemark. Il est maintenant professeur de sport dans les écoles et a développé ce lieu d'accueil avec ses parents. Il est aussi président local de Slow food pour promouvoir les produits alimentaires traditionnels. Cette région arrosée par de nombreuses sources de montagne et ensoleillée 200 jours par an est propice à la culture de fruits et légumes, à la production de vin, de fromages, de miel...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le carnaval est dans la rue ! </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">De droite à gauche : Draguista, Marian, Slave, Ljubco et sa femme.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deux chatons de 2 jours dans la réserve à bois</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">L'ancienne voie romaine </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slave et Ljubco nous servent de guides.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La villa Dihovo</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pece a bien équipé le jardin en ballons, buts et crosses</td></tr>
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Samedi 2 avril - 17 km - 229 km cumulés<br />
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Nous nous préparons tranquillement en écoutant le début de la session "From green to greener". Celle-ci se déroule du 1er au 10 avril et regroupe 27 participants de Macédoine, Grèce, Italie, Serbie, Albanie et Allemagne. Les jeunes vont confronter leurs expériences, les pratiques de leurs grands-parents et les leurs en matière d'achats, de consommation. Ils vont visiter des fermes, jardiner, aller au marché de Bitola, créer des objets à partir de déchets (là, ils auront du choix !), fabriquer des produits d'entretien, etc... Programme intéressant...<br />
Nous partons avec une salade du jardin et des pommes de la récolte de Pece.<br />
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Après une portion de petite route, nous passons la majeure partie de la journée sur des chemins défoncés par les passages de troupeaux et de tracteurs, trempés par la fonte des neiges. Il nous aurait fallu des bottes ! Nous croisons d'ailleurs une trentaine de personnes, bottes aux pieds, sarclet sur l'épaule, scéne que nous ne voyons pas en France. Un peu plus loin nous apercevons 2 bergers. L'un d'eux s'approche, nous demande où nous allons...et nous précède pendant une petite heure, se retournant régulièrement pour vérifier que nous suivons. Au village de Rotino, nous lui montrons que nous faisons une pause casse-croûte. Nous lui demandons où trouver de l'eau, il est interrompu par un automobiliste et finalement nous réalisons que nous nous sommes posés devant sa maison ! Lui et son épouse Draga nous invitent à nous rafraîchir au robinet de leur jardin. Draga nous apporte du café, un soda arôme banane pour les enfants (aussi mauvais qu'un médicament) et à peu près 3 kg de pommes ! Nous allons manger chacun 4 pommes par jour pendant 2 jours pour écluser les pommes de Pece et de Draga. Ce sont de toute façon les seuls produits frais que nous aurons dans cette période. Le café épicerie que nous trouvons dans l'ancien centre culturel communiste de chaque village ne vend jamais de fruits et légumes frais.<br />
Nous disons au revoir avec gratitude à Draga et Doran. Les rencontres chaleureuses de ces 2 jours nous aident à surmonter notre déception de ne pas voir notre famille qui devait venir, contrainte d'annuler son voyage.<br />
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Faute de trouver les restes d'une basilique byzantine, nous nous posons pour la nuit sur une prairie à côté du village de Dolenci.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Solenn s'entraîne pour le tournoi inter-écoles de hockey !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La session "From green to greener"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doran et Draga </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous attribuons le trophée "sac plastique rouge" à la Macédoine, ex-aequo avec la banlieue de Novi Sad en Serbie et les villages bédouins et arabes d'Israël</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous nous lavons avec l'eau de ce torrent de montagne... glacée mais qui nous permet de nous sentir propres après un journée à transpirer.</td></tr>
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Dimanche 3 avril - 13 km - 242 km cumulés<br />
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La journée commence par une traversée de cours d'eau. Gwénolé essaie chaussé, cela lui vaudra des ampoules. Le reste de la famille passe pieds nus, tétanisé jusqu'aux mollets par le froid, bien que l'eau arrive juste aux chevilles.<br />
Dolenci est un village hors du temps. Une seule rue est goudronnée. Les habitants s'affairent autour de leurs étables. L'occupation principale en ce matin de printemps semble être d'amener avec leurs vieux tracteurs du fumier dans les champs.<br />
Nous suivons une vieille route goudronnée déserte sur plusieurs km. Nous faisons notre pause de midi à côté d'une chapelle. Xavier oublie l'appareil photo, un couple nous le ramène en voiture !<br />
Nous traversons un peu plus tard le village de Sopotsko. Un homme nous aborde. Il parle allemand, a bénéficié du droit d'asile pendant 10 ans en Allemagne. Il est revenu en Macédoine et vit maintenant ici avec sa famille. Il nous dit qu'il y a du travail à Resen.<br />
Nous voyons d'abord de Resen un complexe industriel abandonné puis un camion de pommes stationné au soleil. Le centre est plus animé. L'hôtelier nous dit d'abord qu'il n'a pas de place pour nous. Nous discutons dans le coin des taxis pour savoir comment aller au 2ème hôtel à 2 km. Notre premier hôtelier ressort alors et nous dit qu'il a 2 chambres. Nous ne comprenons pas tout mais cela nous arrange d'être logés en plein centre !<br />
L'hôtelier tient aussi un bureau Western Union. Ces agences d'envoi et de réception d'argent fleurissent en Macédoine. Nous ne savons pas dans quel sens se font les transferts.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le mont Pelister au fond</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On se rechausse après la traversée </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les pieds de maïs séchés sont coupés à la main</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dolenci est un village musulman. La mosquée ne semble pas utilisée au quotidien.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tas de fumier prêts à être incorporés </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Une petite vipère</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Encore une traversée acrobatique </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ouf, un pont !</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jcswInD0SBQ/VwYyJjBhrqI/AAAAAAAARtg/c28YMHarMvgYCnDgcSI5mU-TFwX5koViw/s1600/P4031230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jcswInD0SBQ/VwYyJjBhrqI/AAAAAAAARtg/c28YMHarMvgYCnDgcSI5mU-TFwX5koViw/s640/P4031230.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sopotsko et ses maisons en briques de terre sèche</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Resen, notre étape de ce soir</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pâtes et pizza dans l'unique restaurant ouvert</td></tr>
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Lundi 4 avril - 7 km - 249 km cumulés<br />
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Nous faisons des courses pour les prochaines 24 heures. Nous remarquons que les collégiens et lycéens sortent entre les cours et achètent toutes sortes de snacks : parts de pizza sur lesquelles on leur rajoute du ketchup, feuilletés salés ou sucrés, chips, barres chocolatées, sodas...<br />
Les hommes, quant à eux, sont attablés un peu partout. On se demande quel est vraiment le taux d'emploi ici.<br />
Nous partons sous la chaleur. Après les vergers de pommes nous ne faisons que monter, sur un chemin forestier. Nous atteignons assez vite Petrino, village abandonné auprès duquel coule une source. Un replat accueille nos tentes ce soir. A 19h30 nous sommes couchés, en prévision de la traversée du parc national de la Galicica demain.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7S6ElcuIazU/VwYzS_qgKXI/AAAAAAAARts/qSL7IYI6Nr8oAWTbeAg1n28Ik46D6jdeg/s1600/P4041244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7S6ElcuIazU/VwYzS_qgKXI/AAAAAAAARts/qSL7IYI6Nr8oAWTbeAg1n28Ik46D6jdeg/s640/P4041244.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre bivouac au milieu d'un village abandonné au creux d'une vallée.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yann a fabriqué un enclos à bêtes</td></tr>
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Mardi 5 avril - 15 km - 264 km cumulés<br />
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A 9h00 nous quittons Petrino pour continuer la montée sur le chemin forestier. Un bipède à vélo arrivant derrière nous fait demi-tour en nous voyant. Nous avons dû lui faire peur ! Un quadrupède détale sans que nous ayons pu l'identifier. Nous entendons ses pas sur les feuilles et les craquements des branches.<br />
Ensuite vient le passage le plus difficile : un dénivelé de 300 m sur une distance de 800 m au milieu d'un bois de hêtres. Pas moyen de tirer les chariots sur une pente pareille parsemée de branches, même avec l'aide des garçons. Nous passons en mode portage en faisant 2 pauses dont une pause chocolat. A midi nous sommes en haut et pouvons nous arrêter pour un pique-nique bien mérité.<br />
Il nous reste à avancer sur un plateau sauvage, puis à descendre sur une piste de 4X4 défoncée jusqu'à Velgosti. Dans ce village de la banlieue d'Ohrid, les habitants sont souriants. Nous cherchons dans la supérette de quoi préparer un dîner puis nous montons au monastère de Ste Petka. Le gardien est plutôt froid. En revanche, le lieu, bien que vide désormais, est enchanteur. Une fois le gardien rentré chez lui, nous y sommes seuls et pouvons récupérer de cette longue journée en admirant le panorama sur le lac. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vue sur le lac Prespa</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La montée dans le bois de hêtres</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Après la montée nous arrivons sur un plateau avant de redescendre vers la vallée d'Ohrid et de son lac</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La source sort de terre. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bHp4TzCyur8/VwY0JU8IasI/AAAAAAAARt4/YeuQU0HW7WYjkDgpy78SIm0225uYPkgbQ/s1600/P4051268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bHp4TzCyur8/VwY0JU8IasI/AAAAAAAARt4/YeuQU0HW7WYjkDgpy78SIm0225uYPkgbQ/s400/P4051268.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous nous y rafraîchissons. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OQXUhfkLm7A/VwY0JWb7ERI/AAAAAAAARt4/ZusanVrnu24Fh3Jq9Q_MmfxcOZvzixS8w/s1600/P4051269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OQXUhfkLm7A/VwY0JWb7ERI/AAAAAAAARt4/ZusanVrnu24Fh3Jq9Q_MmfxcOZvzixS8w/s640/P4051269.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lac d'Ohrid</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monastère Ste Petka où nous dormirons ce soir.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sainte Petka (ou Parascheva)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cette grande galerie est très agréable </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous dînons avec cette vue époustouflante sur le lac d'Ohrid</td></tr>
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Mercredi 6 avril - 4 km - 268 km cumulés<br />
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Nous prenons notre temps avant de quitter ce havre de paix puis nous descendons tranquillement jusqu'au centre d'Ohrid où nous avons réservé un appartement. Cette ville d'environ 50 000 habitants n'usurpe pas sa réputation de lieu agréable à vivre. Avec ses 365 églises, elle est également appelée "petite Jérusalem". Nous allons pouvoir y passer quelques jours agréables.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le fort d'Ohrid vu depuis le monastère </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">L'église du monastère </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Arrivée à Ohrid</span></div>
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<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-69506400595027867942016-03-31T09:38:00.000-07:002016-04-08T13:11:31.042-07:00Sur la Via Egnatia d'Edessa à Bitola<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Samedi 26 mars - 14km - 141km cumulés</div>
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Xavier est sur pied. Nous reprenons donc le chemin. Nous passons sur le pont byzantin, tournicotons un peu à cause de passages fermés et enchaînons sur une grimpette vers les montages. Nous atteignons un plateau qui s'étend jusqu'au village de Nisi. Le lac n'est plus qu'un ensemble d'étangs, décidément il n'a pas assez plu. La première femme rencontrée dans le village nous demande 3 fois comment nous voyageons, à chaque fois nous montrons nos pieds. C'est une plus jeune qui lui répète !<br />
Notre guide note qu'il y a d'éventuels domatia ou chambres à louer à Nisi. Nous demandons donc à la supérette (encore un homme qui parle allemand, ayant travaillé en Allemagne) puis au café mais sans succès. Après avoir fait le plein pour le dîner, nous quittons le village sous les regards d'une dizaine d'enfants et nous posons un peu après. La nuit promet d'être fraiche avec une prévision à -3° ...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prêt pour le départ !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passage du pont byzantin </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre feu pascal</td></tr>
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Dimanche 27 mars - 15km - 156 kM cumulés<br />
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La nuit fut fraîche mais avec les sacs de couchages la famille n'a pas eu froid. Nous nous préparons au son des chants de l'église du village d'en face. Nous partons vers Arnissa. Le chemin grimpe puis arrive à un nouveau plateau, 300 mètres plus haut, cerné de montagnes. Les pommiers et cerisiers remplacent les abricotiers et pêchers, la floraison commence tout juste. Notre ville étape du jour se trouve au bord d'un lac. En arrivant nous nous adressons au garage qui se trouve à l'entrée de la ville pour demander où se trouvent les hôtels. Nous tombons sur Semila, une dame qui parle français. En fait, son père a émigré en Belgique pour travailler dans les mines puis est retourné en Grèce pour la retraite. Elle l'a suivi. Semila contacte Sophia qui nous installe dans une chambre puis nous laisse l'hôtel pour nous tous seuls.<br />
Pour fêter Pâques, nous dînons dans une auberge. Celle-ci est tenue par une famille. Les grands-parents ont habité en Allemagne, eux et leur fils Christos parlent allemand. Nopi son épouse parle anglais. Leur fils aîné est pharmacien mais ne trouve pas de travail en Grèce. Étant germanophone lui aussi, il envisage de partir travailler en Allemagne. Christos nous offre du tsipouro et nous montre des photos et films de leur vie sur son smartphone. Nous sommes invités à une répétition de danse traditionnelle le lendemain soir. Nous déclinons pour être à temps au rendez-vous en Macédoine avec la soeur de Charlotte.<br />
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La journée est froide et grise mais les paysages sont beaux</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arnissa</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lac Petres</td></tr>
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Lundi 28 mars - 19km - 175 km cumulés<br />
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Nous commençons sur un chemin tout plat dans les vergers (et les traitements !). Nous prenons ensuite la route quasi déserte. A force de pentes à 10% nous voyons de mieux en mieux les montagnes autour. Nous retrouvons ensuite les chemins de terre sur 2 plateaux successifs. Au total nous aurons croisé un camion de paille, 3 voitures et un berger menant son troupeau.<br />
Avant le village de Kella le spectacle est désolant : le vallon qui descend vers le lac Petres est jonché d'ordures. Une clôture et un panneau flambant neuf dissuadent dorénavant ceux qui voudraient utiliser le lieu comme décharge.<br />
A Kella nous sommes tout de suite repérés par les enfants. L'hôtel étant fermé, nous leur demandons où habite le pope. Ils courent le chercher. Celui-ci se contente d'emmener Gwénolé au café. Le patron parle un peu anglais et dit que nous pouvons nous installer dans le stade ou dans la maison ouverte aux 4 vents à côté ! Nous choisissons le stade et son robinet d'eau pour tout confort. Nous nous réchauffons à un feu de bois sur une plate-forme bétonnée puis dans nos sacs de couchage.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ajourd'hui nous avons un seul passage à gué</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le lac Petres vu d'en haut</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">En arrière plan, Kella, notre objectif du jour </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous apercevons les bergeries de Kella qui épousent la pente de manière surprenante.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kella compte autant de bergeries que de maisons </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dîner sur le banc de touche</td></tr>
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Mardi 29 mars - 13km - 188km cumulés <br />
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À notre départ les enfants nous font signe depuis l'école. Un homme tente encore de nous faire prendre la route goudronnée mais nous prenons les chemins des bergers. En haut de la colline nous découvrons la plaine qui va nous conduire aux montagnes de Macédoine. Des petits bunkers témoignent des luttes qui ont eu lieu pour la possession de ce territoire. Nous avons pris un chemin qui ne continue pas, nous n'avons plus qu'à descendre à travers une chênaie. Nous pique-niquons sous des acacias, nous nous faisons suivre quelques longues minutes par des chiens de troupeau puis nous passons entre la centrale thermique et la mine de charbon.<br />
A Melite les chambres sur lesquelles nous comptions n'existent pas. Nous entrons dans un café pour poser à nouveau la question.<br />
<span style="color: #6aa84f;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #6aa84f;">Ils nous ont offert des sodas et après ils nous ont donné: 2 fois des frites 1 fois de la viande et pour papa et maman 3 fois un vin grec mélangé avec de l'eau gazeuse. Après un des gars, Costas, nous a accueilli chez lui dans une énorme maison tout en bois.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #6aa84f;">Yann</span><br />
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Deux Costas, plus Yannis qui parle anglais, qui ramène Vassilios qui parle couramment français nous aident finalement à trouver une solution pour la nuit.<br />
Les 2 Costas travaillent à la mine de charbon mais sont actuellement en chômage technique car en raison de la crise la Grèce est en surproduction d'électricité. Et en Grèce chômage technique signifie revenu égal à 0. Vassilios était informaticien en Belgique. Il nous explique que de nombreux mineurs grecs sont partis travailler dans les mines de charbon belges pour bénéficier de meilleures conditions de travail.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Près de la frontière macédonienne les habitants des petits villages nous ont "dénoncés" à la Police en leur disant que nous étions des syriens. La première fois côté grec nous étions dans le bar à Melite et 2 agents de police sont entrés et nous ont demandé nos passeports! La seconde et la troisième fois, du côté macédonien, nous marchions et des policiers sont arrivés en voiture. A chaque fois ils sont repartis en nous disant "good trip !".</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Xavier</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dans les rues de Kella</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 26.6235px;">Un berger part sur son âne</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Macédoine est en vue</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qwpNR3l2KhQ/Vv1gqZkOrVI/AAAAAAAARZg/wELxtATYEwIiMIwFJVIB3_ONIQnMwYnpA/s1600/P3291120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qwpNR3l2KhQ/Vv1gqZkOrVI/AAAAAAAARZg/wELxtATYEwIiMIwFJVIB3_ONIQnMwYnpA/s640/P3291120.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous passons entre la centrale thermique et la mine de charbon </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nos bons samaritains du jour : à droite Costas 1, à gauche Yannis et au milieu Vassilios</td></tr>
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Mercredi 30 mars - 12km - 200km cumulés<br />
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Après une bonne nuit chez Costas 2, celui-ci nous emmène en voiture pour passer la frontière. Nous avons accepté sa proposition d'une part car nous étions un peu justes pour notre rendez-vous à Ohrid le 7 avril. D'autre part, nous savions que nous n'aurions pas d'hébergement possible à la fin de l'étape avant la frontière et, dans le contexte actuel, 2 tentes plantées près de la frontière auraient inévitablement attiré la police. De surcroît, passer la frontière à pied nous aurait fait perdre un temps certain. Même en voiture, nos passeports ont été examinés pendant un quart d'heure !<br />
Avec Costas nous disons "Adio Ellas". Nous quittons la Grèce avec un pincement au coeur, surtout vue la chaleur humaine des dernières heures.<br />
Nous entrons en république de Macédoine, dans un pays que nous essayions de ne pas nommer en Grèce. En effet, les Grecs n'admettent pas qu'un autre pays que le leur utilise le terme Macédoine. Ils disent "Skopje" ou éventuellement "FYROM".<br />
L'ambiance change dès les premiers villages, les habitants sont plus suspicieux.<br />
A Bitola nous trouvons beaucoup de ressemblances avec Novi Sad, en Serbie ou Bratislava, en Slovaquie, un mélange d'inflaustro-hongrois et de jeunesse branchée dans des rues piétonnes modernes, assorti de bâtiments de l'ère communiste. A Bitola s'ajoutent des restes de l'empire ottoman.<br />
Notre hôte qui nous loue un appartement vient nous chercher à la tour de l'horloge. Nous sommes passés à l'heure d'été dimanche mais nous reculons à nouveau nos montres d'une heure pour changer de fuseau horaire. Nous voilà à l'heure française !<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Devant la maison de Costas 2, notre bon samaritain de la nuit et du jour</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1 ère église macédonienne ! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ch3qlj9Kvo4/Vv1hKo7uNMI/AAAAAAAARZk/votprm0-PZwYIVMpw9arqOxOXkJdz9OrQ/s1600/P3301125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ch3qlj9Kvo4/Vv1hKo7uNMI/AAAAAAAARZk/votprm0-PZwYIVMpw9arqOxOXkJdz9OrQ/s640/P3301125.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous changeons de pays, voici des poivrons séchés</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monastère Saint Christophe </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrivée à Bitola </td></tr>
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Jeudi 31 mars<br />
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Nous nous occupons des devoirs scolaires, des lessives, nous cuisinons les produits du marché et visitons le centre ville.<br />
Bitola compte une église catholique qui est fermée. Dommage, nous n'en verrons pas d'autre avant une semaine. L'agence consulaire française, juste en face, est fermée aussi. Nous espérions y trouver un fanion français pour mieux nous identifier.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TgrC1lJrCKc/Vv2SOMzBJ6I/AAAAAAAARb0/pZmGrdAQN-IFTxO4nqpOVYNXrFWXtQxbg/s1600/P3311147.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TgrC1lJrCKc/Vv2SOMzBJ6I/AAAAAAAARb0/pZmGrdAQN-IFTxO4nqpOVYNXrFWXtQxbg/s640/P3311147.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le travail du jour</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La mosquée est en pleine restauration... financée par la Turquie.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v69GsdTsxxE/Vv2SOAgIpTI/AAAAAAAARb0/vLyDsVIEaDcMHFdVhHs3fZsjEDYd5MYcg/s1600/P3311149.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v69GsdTsxxE/Vv2SOAgIpTI/AAAAAAAARb0/vLyDsVIEaDcMHFdVhHs3fZsjEDYd5MYcg/s640/P3311149.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le grand marché </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'église catholique du Sacré coeur </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les petites rues du grand bazar. En son centre le grand marché.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Anciennes maisons du centre ville</span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">L'hôtel Épinal (ville jumelée avec Bitola)</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'oeuvre de Xavier grâce au four. Ce sont des gâteaux aux pommes </td></tr>
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<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-59328200955345000842016-03-26T01:01:00.002-07:002016-03-31T14:28:29.871-07:00La via Egnatia de Pella à EdessaDimanche 20 mars - 12 km - 73 km cumulés<br />
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Absolument TOUS les commerces sont fermés (les 4 boulangeries et les 2 supérettes). Nous trouvons dans un café des feuilletés au fromage et des croissants industriels pour le petit déjeuner puis Georges nous donne du pain pour le déjeuner. Pour le reste nous avions anticipé et fait des courses hier.<br />
Nous visitons le musée archéologique qui présente des trouvailles superbes de l'âge de bronze jusqu'à la période hellénistique. Il est près de midi quand nous partons. C'est la journée des traitements sur les arbres fruitiers en fleurs. La plupart des agriculteurs n'ont aucun équipement pour se protéger. Un seul a la tête dans un casque de cosmonaute doté d'un masque à gaz. Les champs de coton sont juste labourés.<br />
Nous trouvons à nous loger dans le seul hôtel de Giannitsa. Nous disposons d'une terrasse au 4 ème étage qui nous permet de cuisiner et de suspendre du linge.<br />
Pendant que les enfants bullent, les parents font un tour dans la ville à la recherche de traces de son passé ottoman.<br />
Charlotte a la bonne idée d'agrémenter la sauce carbonara d'un poivron vert qui s'avère être du piment. Nous n'arriverons pas à tout manger !<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Georges, notre hôte attentionné</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Une caricature connue en Grèce mais qui en dit long sur les relations entre les Grecs et les Ottomans. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N3hYh7i_Wzw/VvOF3LL6wfI/AAAAAAAARE4/aU0JTDC90z0_dmz630XjvqqVal11eg6ew/s1600/P3200938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N3hYh7i_Wzw/VvOF3LL6wfI/AAAAAAAARE4/aU0JTDC90z0_dmz630XjvqqVal11eg6ew/s640/P3200938.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le musée de Pella</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La colline où se trouve la nécropole de Pella. Le site est fermé.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les panneaux solaires sont monnaie courante.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giannitsa. Ville fondée par les Ottomans au 15ème. Entièrement réaménagée dans les années 50. Quelques bâtiments anciens, souvent en ruines, subsistent.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lrU5VebOjmo/VvOF3HM0ArI/AAAAAAAARE4/MwtPpvJXVnM5xeyCYDuX_y7NMCCW9OOQQ/s1600/P3200953.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lrU5VebOjmo/VvOF3HM0ArI/AAAAAAAARE4/MwtPpvJXVnM5xeyCYDuX_y7NMCCW9OOQQ/s640/P3200953.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les immeubles des années 50.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rxbkP2gwM4A/VvOF3CS-HQI/AAAAAAAARE4/MqURdWPNlosuBtSjs0H_mdw-FUWkJ7WJw/s1600/P3200954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rxbkP2gwM4A/VvOF3CS-HQI/AAAAAAAARE4/MqURdWPNlosuBtSjs0H_mdw-FUWkJ7WJw/s640/P3200954.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La tour de l'horloge </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les bains </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vJtkzwbVqF0/VvOF3DuXFWI/AAAAAAAARE4/gXueoJicwqkULcNn1NsfJ1-S9V0xxXCEA/s1600/P3200957.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vJtkzwbVqF0/VvOF3DuXFWI/AAAAAAAARE4/gXueoJicwqkULcNn1NsfJ1-S9V0xxXCEA/s640/P3200957.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La mosquée </td></tr>
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Lundi 21 mars - 15 km - 88 km cumulés<br />
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Aujourd'hui nous sommes dans l'ambiance des cultures intensives d'arbres fruitiers. Les traitements dans les vergers battent leur plein. Alors que nous commençons à chercher un endroit pour notre pause de midi, Maximos nous invite juste devant les bâtiments de la coopérative fruitière. Nous en profitons pour nous faire expliquer le procédé de fabrication. Les pêches sont coupées en 2 par une lame, pelées à la soude caustique puis vérifiées par des femmes. Les pêches de bon calibre sont emboîtées, les autres sont transformées en jus. Les fûts de jus sont envoyés dans le Péloponnèse ou en Pologne, en Turquie, au Maroc ou en Algérie pour le conditionnement. L'usine emploie 400 personnes en juillet et août. Elle fonctionne alors 24h sur 24 sauf le dimanche.<br />
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Maximos nous donne des boîtes à emporter. Nous en prenons 2. Au total nous aurons mangé des oreillons de pêche au petit-déjeuner, au déjeuner, au goûter et au dîner !<br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: blue;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: blue;">Beaucoup de grecs nous offrent à manger (et souvent beaucoup!). Peut être que nous leur faisons pitié en marchant ou campant!? Par exemple, nous passons devant une industrie de pêches au sirop et le directeur, qui faisait sa pause devant une camionette à viande et frites, nous offre des saucisses, des souvlakis, des frites, du coca-cola, du rakia (pour les parents) et des pêches au sirop . Un vrai repas délicieux!</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue;">XAVIER</span><br />
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Nous repartons très heureux de cette belle rencontre. L'après-midi nous disons bonjour à un homme qui travaille dans un champ. Il a appris l'allemand en travaillant sur le chantier de construction d'une autoroute à Stuttgart. Nous ne pensions pas trouver autant de germanophones en Grèce. Nous voyons les effets de la crise dans les villages : boutiques fermées, maisons en ruine, immeubles pas terminés. Cependant cela fait longtemps que les Grecs sont partis trouver du travail ailleurs, notamment en Allemagne.<br />
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Nous apprenons à répondre aux 2 questions rituelles :<br />
-"Apo pou iste ?" "D'où êtes-vous?"<br />
-"Apo paté ?" "Où allez-vous ?"<br />
Le fait de marcher reste incompréhensible pour les Grecs mais la carte de notre année et la carte de la via Egnatia nous aident à leur faire comprendre ce que nous faisons là.<br />
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Vers 15h30 nous sommes à l'entrée d'Aravissos. 2 restaurants sont installés au bord d'une rivière. L'un a fermé, l'autre ne fonctionne que le week-end à cette saison mais ses toilettes sont ouvertes. Nous demandons à un homme qui prend des photos où nous pouvons camper. Il nous indique une zone publique à côté de jeux pour enfants. Du coup, les nôtres font leur travail sur les balancelles. Pas sûr que cela active leurs neurones !<br />
Le propriétaire du restaurant passe avant la tombée de la nuit, nous nous présentons et précisons que nous partons le lendemain. Les promeneurs nous saluent en souriant et ensuite il n'y a plus personne.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dans les villages, la distribution du courrier se fait par ces boîtes. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Merci Maximos pour ce repas !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drôle de cochon. Vu ses bruits de bouche, nous avons trouvé une nouvelle expression : mastiquer comme un sanglier</td></tr>
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Mardi 22 mars - 14 km - 102 km cumulés<br />
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Il fait vite chaud. Nous sommes toujours dans les vergers de pêches, abricots, cerises, kiwis. Les traitements et applications de désherbants se succèdent. Nous longeons un canal d'irrigation.<br />
Pour notre pause déjeuner nous nous asseyons sur un banc à côté d'une petite bergerie. Le berger arrive avec ses quelques chèvres. Il connaît quelques mots d'allemand, ayant été chauffeur routier pour une entreprise allemande entre la Grèce et les Pays-Bas.<br />
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<span style="color: lime;">Nous arrivons à Profitis Ilias dans le stade du village où il y a un entraînement. Comme nous ne savons pas si nous pouvons camper nous allons voir des gens qui habitent à côté du stade. Il nous disent que nous pouvons camper derrière les gradins. Juste après l''entraînement des enfants viennent nous voir et nous proposent de jouer au basket avec eux. </span><br />
<span style="color: lime;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: lime;">On s'est bien amusés. </span><br />
<span style="color: lime;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: lime;">Yann</span><br />
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A Profitis Ilias l'accueil des habitants est incroyable. Nous sortons plusieurs fois nos cartes pour expliquer notre parcours. Nous mobilisons tout notre vocabulaire grec. Les enfants jouent avec des copains qui font tout leur possible pour communiquer. L'un deux, Marco, explique fièrement qu'il vient d'Albanie. Dans ces régions les mélanges culturels font partie du quotidien. Alors que Gwénolé est parti faire des courses pour le dîner, une délégation de femmes arrive avec plein de victuailles. Nous avons à manger pour 24 heures ! Pour finir, l'entraîneur nous explique comment ouvrir les vestiaires à toute heure.<br />
Quelques habitants nous yeutent de loin. Un homme vient le visage un peu fermé puis repart tranquilisé après avoir vu nos cartes.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les vergers couvrent la plaine.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pause déjeuner en face d'une petite bergerie.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un pique-nique énorme plus des frites maison que nous partageons avec les enfants présents ! </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avec Aristodis, 8 ans et Olga, 10 ans</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avec Marco, 10 ans et Olga</td></tr>
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Mercredi 23 mars - 15 km - 117 km cumulés<br />
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Nous empaquetons rapidement nos affaires, même les tentes mouillées par la condensation, car la pluie menace.<br />
Un homme vient farfouiller dans les locaux. C'est le père de Marco ! Il a dû trouver ce moyen pour voir qui nous étions.<br />
Dans le village Gregory nous dit dans un bon anglais qu'il connaît des Français dans les environs : des clochards ou "crazy men". Bonne entrée en matière ! Il commence ensuite un discours pseudo-théologique sur le "statut" de Jésus dans l'orthodoxie, sur la crucifixion. Nous l'avons à peine quitté que Johanna nous demande depuis son café de nous arrêter. Elle nous apporte 5 koulouri ! Et quelques minutes après, le père de Marco arrête sa voiture à côté de nous et nous tend un pain ! Ce n'est pas aujourd'hui que nous aurons faim.<br />
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En revanche nous serons mouillés par la pluie, par deux traversées de cours d'eau, et par l'orage. Nous finissons brumisés par les cascades d'Edessa.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Au loin nous apercevons Edessa.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les cascades sont impressionnantes et font le succès du site. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anciennes maisons du quartier Varosi</td></tr>
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Jeudi 24 mars - pause à Edessa<br />
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Fondée au 4ème siècle avant Jésus-Christ, Edessa fut une étape importante de la via Egnatia sous l'empire romain. Nous commençons la journée par les restes hellénistiques, romains et byzantins de l'ancienne Edessa. Nous sommes guidés par Maria, la gardienne du site. Nous visitons ensuite un vivarium puis la grande cascade. Edessa est un site très intéressant mais la crise est passée par là. Des projets sont arrêtés, des hôtels sont fermés.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pâques approche !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrée de la cité antique</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Stèle funéraire d'un de nos prédécesseurs du 2ème siècle. Il s'agit d'un cochon offert à un voyageur en Dalmatie. Il accompagna son maître sur la via Egnatia jusqu'à Edessa où il mourut écrasé par un char.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Tuyau qui alimente l'usine hydroélectrique</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">La grotte juste à côté de la cascade.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église Saint Pierre et Saint Paul </td></tr>
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Vendredi 25 mars<br />
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Pause forcée à Edessa car Xavier a l'estomac en vrac. Nous espérons qu'après une cure coca-smecta, il sera sur pied demain. En attendant, nous profitons de l'ambiance festive car aujourd'hui, c'est la fête nationale grecque. Nous assistons aux défilés des écoles, des scouts et des militaires. Pour nous c'est un vendredi Saint pas comme les autres !<br />
La maladie de Xavier a au moins un côté positif. Nous avons dû changer d'hôtel faute de place dans le premier. Dans ce deuxième hôtel nous trouvons un prospectus en anglais écrit par des universitaires de Venise. Depuis 2000, avec un groupe d'étudiants, ils marchent 15 jours par an sur des routes historiques de pèlerinage en Europe : Compostelle, via Francigena et, depuis 2015, la via Egnatia ! Nous les contactons, ils sont prêts à nous accueillir à Venise et nous pourrons partager nos expériences !<br />
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<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-19883831179719409962016-03-21T00:55:00.000-07:002016-03-26T01:02:35.109-07:00La via Egnatia de Thessalonique à Pella<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carte de la via Egnatia </td></tr>
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Mardi 15 mars - 15 km<br />
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Nous nous rapprochons du nord de Thessalonique en bus, après avoir dit au revoir à Sébastien. Nous progressons sur des collines qui servent de pâturages, en bordure des zones industrielles. 4 fois, des hommes nous demandent où nous allons et nous expliquent en grec le chemin à prendre (bien que nous ne soyons pas perdus !).<br />
Puis nous remontons une vallée avec 3 passages à gué. Avec la pluie des dernières heures, les traversées sont difficiles. Solenn finit par tremper ses deux chaussures et Gwénolé aussi, au dernier passage a gué, avec les sacs sur les épaules, pour gagner du temps. Bilan de l'après midi deux paires de pieds mouillées. Heureusement le soir à Oraiocastro nous logeons dans un hôtel bien chauffé qui permet à tout le monde de se réchauffer et à nos chaussures de sécher. Nous découvrons à la télévision le groupe de réfugiés traversant une rivière pour rejoindre la Macédoine. Nous imaginons comme ils ont dû souffrir du froid.<br />
Nous dînons de gyros, les kebabs grecs.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre départ de Thessalonique en compagnie de Sébastien.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le temps est humide et froid</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les bergeries de la banlieue de Thessalonique sont rudimentaires</td></tr>
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Mercredi 16 mars - 10 km - 25 km cumulés<br />
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Il fait encore froid, nous restons donc une bonne partie de la matinée dans notre chambre pour les devoirs.<br />
Cette journée est placée sous le signe de la générosité des Grecs dans une des régions pourtant les plus pauvres. Alors que nous pique-niquons dans un petit jardin public à Neochorouda, une dame âgée nous apporte un sac de victuailles : 1 kg de yaourt, 1 l de lait, un petit yaourt et un demi pain. Nous lui demandons par signe si elle ne veut pas plutôt garder cette nourriture pour elle mais rien n'y fait. Elle revient avec 2 cuillères à soupe, nous lui montrons que nous avons des couverts, puis avec un sac pour Solenn qui contient un nounours, une poupée et 2 paires de chaussettes neuves ! Nous les laisserons au village suivant sur le bord de la fenêtre d'une église. Nous lui avons montré notre topo-guide, elle a donc dû comprendre que nous n'étions pas des réfugiés mais a dû être touchée par les enfants. Nous partons assez rapidement, ayant peur qu'elle vide sa maison pour nous. Son mari nous fait au revoir de la main avec un bon sourire.<br />
Au village suivant, c'est le boucher qui, nous voyant attendre la réouverture des magasins, vient nous indiquer l'heure d'ouverture de la supérette, nous propose son code wifi et enfin nous amène des bouteilles d'eau, 3 pommes et une orange !<br />
A la sortie du village, nous traversons la voie ferrée et arrivons à la rivière préconisée par le topoguide pour bivouaquer. Une ferme se débarasse sur la rive gauche de ses animaux morts, nous avons l'odeur qui va avec. Un employé nous croit perdus, nous essayons de faire comprendre que nous cherchons un endroit pour camper. Il nous donne 4 oranges et téléphone à une femme qui parle un peu anglais. Celle-ci nous indique d'abord une aire de gens du voyage puis le camp d'Idomeni ! Le gars lui précise que nous sommes des touristes et nous profitons du blanc dans la conversation pour aller nous installer sur la rive droite à un endroit qui ne sent pas trop mauvais.<br />
Au dîner, au moment d'entamer le pot de 1 kg de yaourt, nous mettons à chauffer ce qui s'avère être un plat de haricots blancs et légumes. Cela tombe bien, nous avions encore un peu faim !<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les cadeaux offerts à Solenn. Ils feront certainement d'autres heureux !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La rivière au bord de laquelle nous campons. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous retrouvons les feux de camp avec plaisir.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iXbA2qW3rUA/Vuu2HD9jJVI/AAAAAAAAQwE/GGoou8Sdt8glXpCZA-z7eoep7HTciOxWA/s1600/P3160880.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iXbA2qW3rUA/Vuu2HD9jJVI/AAAAAAAAQwE/GGoou8Sdt8glXpCZA-z7eoep7HTciOxWA/s640/P3160880.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le plat de haricots et légumes </td></tr>
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Jeudi 17 mars - 15 km - 40 km cumulés<br />
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C'est le jour de la boue qui colle et des chiens qui aboient. Les fermes ne sont pas habitées comme en France, elles sont donc sales et sont gardées en général par 4 à 6 chiens. Heureusement ceux-ci tiennent à peu près leurs distances. Il faut dire que les chariots que nous tirons semblent les impressionner et les découragent d'approcher d'avantage.<br />
Le midi nous déjeunons devant un cabanon au bord d'une route. Une voiture de jeunes s'arrête puis repart. Quelques minutes plus tard c'est le tour d'une fourgonnette occupée par une femme coiffée d'un foulard blanc, un homme et une petite fille, peut-être des Albanais. Ils récupèrent des branchages sur un arbre sec. C'est pour eux que nous aurions dû garder le sac de jouets et chaussettes de la veille !<br />
Sur ces entrefaites, un couple de Grecs en voiture s'arrête aussi et vérifie que nous ne sommes pas perdus !<br />
Quelques bagarres avec la boue plus loin, nous nous installons au seul hôtel de Géfira. Nous nous contentons d'une chambre pour 3. En effet l'hôtel est rempli de photo journalistes et de médecins qui travaillent au camp d'Idomeni.<br />
Alors que nous faisons des courses à la supérette, la patronne nous pose quelques questions. Elle est interloquée, nous demande si nous faisons ce voyage de notre propre chef et offre 3 barres chocolatées pour les enfants !<br />
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Vendredi 18 mars - 10 km - 50 km cumulés<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Les Grecs regardent tellement la télévision qu'ils nous prennent pour des réfugiés! Par exemple, aujourd'hui, nous avons voulu entrer dans une église et la dame qui était à la porte nous a dit "Idomeni!" en montrant un chemin et a fermé à clé ! Ou encore quand nous arrivons dans un village les habitants nous pose la question "tourist ?".</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Ici beaucoup de gens parlent allemand. Dans la campagne nous avons été interpellés en allemand "Zu zu!" Le monsieur nous prenait pour des réfugiés qui voulaient passer la frontière macédonienne et nous disait qu'elle était fermée ! </span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Nous avons appris à dire FRANCE en grec (GALLIA) mais nous devons le prononcer tellement mal que les gens nous disent "Syria? Syria?"!</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">XAVIER</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span>Nous passons à la supérette pour présenter à la patronne les enfants, qui n'étaient pas avec nous hier soir, mais elle n'est pas là. Nous achetons 3 pains à la boulangerie, la boulangère nous offre 5 koulouri, petits pains ronds au sésame que nous voyons depuis la Turquie.<br />
Nous marchons sur un chemin de terre tout plat le long d'une voie ferrée puis le long de la rivière Axios. Nous nous posons pour la nuit sur la berge. Les seuls bruits seront les croassements des crapauds.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M6gvDFu1nKE/Vu8B6Z5yjtI/AAAAAAAAQ1U/wYVcVGmCWv80cJhic_xCpcxIkhS9eSdrQ/s1600/P3180894.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M6gvDFu1nKE/Vu8B6Z5yjtI/AAAAAAAAQ1U/wYVcVGmCWv80cJhic_xCpcxIkhS9eSdrQ/s640/P3180894.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les enfants travaillent.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hO1sF0jfx5M/Vu8Cq2RgfgI/AAAAAAAAQ18/-ocJZSqMjX0tpUoiUs_lembFNKNW0xtUQ/s1600/P3180903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hO1sF0jfx5M/Vu8Cq2RgfgI/AAAAAAAAQ18/-ocJZSqMjX0tpUoiUs_lembFNKNW0xtUQ/s640/P3180903.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les cadeaux du jour qui agrémentent notre pique-nique.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nvBbP_B6Owc/Vu8DojXNhtI/AAAAAAAAQ2o/8G-41b0a43MnZZILMeca9YXrdpfC1R2xA/s1600/P3180910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nvBbP_B6Owc/Vu8DojXNhtI/AAAAAAAAQ2o/8G-41b0a43MnZZILMeca9YXrdpfC1R2xA/s640/P3180910.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre lieu de campement au bord de la rivière.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PUcKxbM7xPI/Vu8DzjHM4XI/AAAAAAAAQ20/4qxo0VmBqJQ5ZTvKP2l94FFVru75H7uCA/s1600/P3180912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PUcKxbM7xPI/Vu8DzjHM4XI/AAAAAAAAQ20/4qxo0VmBqJQ5ZTvKP2l94FFVru75H7uCA/s640/P3180912.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les enfants fabriquent un radeau.</td></tr>
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Samedi 19 mars - 11 km - 61 km cumulés<br />
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Nos tentes sont trempées et givrées mais le soleil sèche nos affaires. Une piste cyclable goudronnée nous amène à Koufalia. Nous expliquons une fois en anglais puis une fois en allemand ce que nous faisons là et encore une fois en greco-gestes !<br />
Après le goudron du matin, la boue de l'après-midi épuise les tireurs de chariots. Heureusement l'étape est courte jusqu'à Pella, ville de naissance de Philippe 2 et Alexandre le grand. Cette ancienne capitale de Macédoine fut colonisée ensuite par les Romains qui construisirent la via Egnatia.<br />
Pella ne compte pas d'hôtel mais nous suivons les conseils du topo-guide et nous adressons au restaurant To Lemoni. Georges et Maria nous louent pour la nuit un logement qui sert de temps en temps à leur fils. Le soir nous mangeons notre première moussaka. Georges et Maria nous font goûter en plus du tzatziki et une salade de pommes de terre. Nous apprécions beaucoup leur accueil familial et chaleureux.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrivée à Pella</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gCx9iuwaw2U/Vu8FKTGO_sI/AAAAAAAAQ30/73NigcbojxwHVn37CgtZY2_vW4VEOrUOw/s1600/P3190926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gCx9iuwaw2U/Vu8FKTGO_sI/AAAAAAAAQ30/73NigcbojxwHVn37CgtZY2_vW4VEOrUOw/s640/P3190926.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous prenons connaissance des nouvelles de Grèce et d'Istanbul </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dGviMfduXms/Vu8FdAEKq8I/AAAAAAAAQ4I/Jn2PLW9UaEAB0cgBnpuYvXdWbqbB_U0cg/s1600/P3190928.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dGviMfduXms/Vu8FdAEKq8I/AAAAAAAAQ4I/Jn2PLW9UaEAB0cgBnpuYvXdWbqbB_U0cg/s640/P3190928.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le restaurant To Lemoni</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexandre le Grand </td></tr>
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<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-73173234312828818442016-03-16T02:19:00.000-07:002016-03-21T00:55:34.792-07:00Séjour à ThessaloniqueNotre problème de chariot est enfin résolu ! Les pièces Carrix sont arrivées à bon port et le montage est terminé. Nous sommes prêts pour repartir !<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="color: blue;">En Grèce nous avons remarqué que les orthodoxes font souvent des signes de croix. Dès qu'ils aperçoivent une église ou des "mini-oratoires" ils se signent! Par example, quand nous avons pris le bus l'hôtesse se signait tous les trois tournants car il y a beaucoup de petits oratoires le long de la route! Ou, quand nous attendions le bus, un orage à éclaté et une dame s'est signé. Le signe de croix orthodoxe est assez particulier car ils en font 3 ou 4 à la suite et se tappotent le torse.</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">XAVIER</span><br />
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Jeudi 10 mars<br />
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Notre hôte a reçu hier le colis qui contient la pièce de rechange pour le chariot. Pour des raisons d'horaires d'ouverture, nous commençons la journée par la visite du musée de la culture byzantine, qui met bien en valeur les mosaïques, les icônes, les pièces de monnaie, les poteries et les bijoux du 4 ème au 15 ème siècle.<br />
Il est beaucoup plus agréable de se promener à Thessalonique qu'à Athènes ; on y respire mieux et on peut marcher sur le front de mer. En revanche les immeubles n'y sont pas plus beaux et un grand nombre de bâtiments anciens est abandonné voire en ruines, comme à Athènes.<br />
L'après-midi Gwénolé change la pièce cassée sur le chariot pendant que les enfants travaillent.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Visite du musée byzantin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--49lOz0wGtE/VuMnQgwwC_I/AAAAAAAAQeE/0McaEHG6KYAmwYU9WwI9JOfQZYUDhkB_Q/s1600/P3100756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--49lOz0wGtE/VuMnQgwwC_I/AAAAAAAAQeE/0McaEHG6KYAmwYU9WwI9JOfQZYUDhkB_Q/s640/P3100756.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexandre le Grand </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La tour blanche</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le grand marché </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'agora romaine</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Muv8kqwEKCk/VuMnQs43qZI/AAAAAAAAQeE/kPOnmkRObgkpJOftqYsjzixQ94B8Iagrw/s1600/P3100763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Muv8kqwEKCk/VuMnQs43qZI/AAAAAAAAQeE/kPOnmkRObgkpJOftqYsjzixQ94B8Iagrw/s640/P3100763.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La rotonde, ancien mausolée du IVème siècle de l'empereur romain Galère, transformé en église sous l'empereur Constantin puis en mosquée sous les Ottomans et enfin reconverti en église en 1912. Les mosaïques sont somptueuses !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
La pièce de rechange à côté du chariot</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le chariot une fois remonté</td></tr>
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Vendredi 11 mars<br />
<br />
Il fait beau, nous partons à pied visiter l'église sainte Sophie et l'église Panagia Achiropiito.<br />
L'après-midi se déroule à l'appartement : devoirs, confection de confitures d'orange et de citron, télévision.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les biscuits de carnaval </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'église Sainte Sophie du VIIIème siecle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église Panagia Achiropiito<span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">.</span><span style="font-size: 26.1342px;"> </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Quartier autour de l'église catholique Notre Dame de L'Immaculé </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Nous rentrons par les quais</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Partie de tour : genre de micado en forme de tour</td></tr>
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Samedi 12 mars<br />
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Nous visitons l'église Saint Dimitrios qui comporte quelques mosaïques anciennes au sol ou murales.<br />
Nous passons devant le consulat de Turquie situé dans la maison natale d'Atatürk. Les enfants sont motivés pour visiter le petit musée mais un attroupement devant la porte nous fait comprendre que nous ne rentrerons pas. Nous supposons qu'il s'agit d'une protestation de Grecs contre la politique des Turcs envers les réfugiés.<br />
A la place nous visitons le musée de la lutte pour la libération de la Macédoine qui retrace plus de 100 ans d'histoire mouvementée depuis la révolution contre les Ottomans jusqu'aux vélléités de récupération de la région par les Bulgares et les Turcs.<br />
Il pleut tout l'après-midi, nous sommes contents d'être à l'abri à l'appartement.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Musée de la guerre </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église Saint Dimitrios </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La crypte de Saint Dimitrios </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parfois d'anciennes maisons subsistent au milieu des immeubles années 50 </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uc9-1zFjEi4/Vuh4IEfhuSI/AAAAAAAAQpM/G7h9MzaiXNIDNjhAh7IZ7k3bs1ylHjYVQ/s1600/P3120828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uc9-1zFjEi4/Vuh4IEfhuSI/AAAAAAAAQpM/G7h9MzaiXNIDNjhAh7IZ7k3bs1ylHjYVQ/s400/P3120828.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Certaines sont à l'état de ruines </td></tr>
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Dimanche 13 mars<br />
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Il crachine. Nous allons jusqu'au musée d'histoire de Thessalonique, installé dans la tour blanche, pas si interactif que nous le pensions. Toutefois il montre bien le passé cosmopolite de la ville. Nous laissons passer une averse avant de monter jusqu'au castro.<br />
Nous faisons une pause à l'appartement avant de partir en bus à une messe en anglais dont l'assistance est composée essentiellement de Philippins et d'Africains. Les catholiques ici ne sont pas encore en carême, ils se calent sur le grand carême orthodoxe qui commence demain, après 3 semaines de petit carême. Au final nous ne savons pas où et quand nous fêterons Pâques cette année !<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vues depuis la tour blanche</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Une des ruelles qui monte au Castro </td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Le castro est l'ancien fort byzantin. Il surplombe la vieille ville et fait partie de l'enceinte byzantine dont une partie des murailles est toujours présente. Le fort fut remanié par les Ottomans avant de devenir une prison jusque dans les années 80. L'ensemble est maintenant en cours de restauration.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vue depuis notre appartement </td></tr>
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Lundi 14 mars<br />
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Aujourd'hui c'est lundi pur, premier jour du carême. Ce jour est férié. C'est un jour tranquille pour nous aussi. Nous nous baladins sur le front de mer vers l'est, jusqu'à un petit port de plaisance et sa chapelle.<br />
Le soir, nous accueillons Sébastien avec qui nous avons roulé 2 jours en juillet. Son vélo a hiverné à Athènes, Sébastien en France et en Espagne. Il repart pour un an de voyage, d'abord vers Istanbul. Il prend ensuite l'avion pour le Japon et roule jusqu'en Thaïlande. Nous sommes heureux de nous retrouver et de nous raconter nos expériences, avant de partir, nous vers l'ouest et lui vers l'est.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NaSVR62mQXY/VukaU7nG33I/AAAAAAAAQqw/JqYFqQq8kMIbm7CAG80soQXlBZLwgcWgQ/s1600/P3140847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NaSVR62mQXY/VukaU7nG33I/AAAAAAAAQqw/JqYFqQq8kMIbm7CAG80soQXlBZLwgcWgQ/s640/P3140847.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les boulangeries ne vendent que ce pain plat aujourd'hui </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Repas avec Sébastien </td></tr>
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<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-13674175299249589542016-03-11T12:08:00.000-08:002016-03-16T02:19:39.463-07:00Séjour à Delphes<span style="font-size: large;">Samedi 5 mars</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Nous faisons chauffer notre lait sur le balcon et déjeunons. Nous avons 2 heures pour visiter Patra, de jour cette fois, avant de partir pour Delphes. En bas des escaliers du kastro, un écran et un haut-parleur ont été installés à côté d'une église, des chants s'en échappent, le portrait d'un pope est affiché, cela doit être son enterrement. D'en haut nous admirons la vue sur le golfe de Corinthe et les montagnes. Nous apercevons également en bas un marché où nous allons de ce pas faire du ravitaillement. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Le temps de boucler nos affaires à l'hôtel, nous nous installons dans le bus à 12h30. Nous avons réussi à obtenir une information sur la durée du trajet : plus de 3 h... Il ne faut pas être pressé mais c'est beau : après avoir traversé le golfe sur le pont Trikoupis, nous suivons tous les contours de la côte. Il fait beau, nous admirons la mer et la montagne. A Itea, surprise, il faut changer de bus et attendre une vingtaine de minutes. Nous avons tout juste le temps de grignoter.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Vers 16h15, nous descendons au camping Apollon. Les prévisions météo des prochains jours sont bonnes, nous installons donc nos tentes. Nous sommes seuls, le patron passe chaque soir pour récolter son dû.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Xavier, Yann et Solenn dans le hall d'hôtel aux couleurs du carnaval</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le kastro construit par les Byzantins puis remanié par les Croisés, les Vénitiens, les Ottomans</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vues depuis le kastro qui domine la ville</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ce matin c'est le carnaval des enfants : des olympiades orchestrées par des chefs scouts</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sur le pont suspendu le plus long du monde</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les paysages que nous traversons sont splendides !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La terrasse sur laquelle nous campons donne sur ça ! </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chapelle à côté du camping </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Dimanche 6 mars</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Le camping est à 1,5 km de Delphes et 2 km du site antique. Nous partons à pied. </span><span style="font-size: large;">Munis de pains rassis, seuls restes à la boulangerie à 9h30 du matin (!), nous commençons la visite. Aujourd'hui 1er dimanche du mois, c'est gratuit. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Avant les arrivées de bus, ce site perché est charmant. Nous montons jusqu'au temple d'Apollon comme le faisaient les pèlerins de l'Antiquité puis nous poursuivons jusqu'au théâtre et au stade. En bas, de l'autre côté de la route, nous pique-niquons près du temple d'Athéna Nikè. Nous terminons par le musée qui conserve les trouvailles des archéologues de l'école française d'Athènes. Nous avons du français sur chaque panneau !</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous avons choisi un emplacement ensoleillé et avec vue</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Nous arrivons sur le site antique de Delphes</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mur polygonal</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le trésor des Athéniens </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le temple d'Apollon</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Le théâtre</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le stade</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple d'Athena Nikè</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IEOTycWrA_k/Vt7k2VwfJWI/AAAAAAAAQOc/qi3rsKYF_C0/s1600/P3060671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IEOTycWrA_k/Vt7k2VwfJWI/AAAAAAAAQOc/qi3rsKYF_C0/s640/P3060671.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Au loin les colonnes du temple d'Apollon </td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Nous imaginons l'enthousiasme des archéologues découvrant ces merveilles ! </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XzkoFNGiydY/Vt7k2UIpMOI/AAAAAAAAQOc/7ziCm8P-jZM/s1600/P3060680.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XzkoFNGiydY/Vt7k2UIpMOI/AAAAAAAAQOc/7ziCm8P-jZM/s640/P3060680.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Après la culture, la détente !</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Lundi 7 mars</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous empruntons la portion du chemin européen E4 au sud de Delphes, jusqu'à la mer. Il s'agit du chemin qui menait de Kirra, le port antique de Delphes, jusqu'au sanctuaire. Nous voyons aujourd'hui des chapelles fermées, quelques troupeaux de chèvres à belles cornes, des moutons tachetés et une oliveraie interminable dans laquelle des ouvriers s'activent par endroits pour la récolte ou la taille.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A Kirra nous observons les vestiges de quelques quais maintenant dans les terres. Nous profitons de l'ambiance paisible de ce village dont l'école donne sur la mer. Nous rejoignons ensuite Itea qui est calme à cette saison. Nous admirons les vagues depuis un banc, nous sommes bien. Enfin, nous rentrons en bus.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mEstnMHOBls/VuHTCpYWyKI/AAAAAAAAQRc/eP7B8Ui61Ls6YqpqEZHEhlbg2lKI3jZtg/s1600/P3070681.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mEstnMHOBls/VuHTCpYWyKI/AAAAAAAAQRc/eP7B8Ui61Ls6YqpqEZHEhlbg2lKI3jZtg/s640/P3070681.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous avons souvent croisé des vendeurs d'agrumes ambulants</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mp6FDse-ouM/VuHTCkxdHOI/AAAAAAAAQRc/PPxDFukfYrQpd7kuw1ieaCUjq2Ul_x4Rg/s1600/P3070686.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mp6FDse-ouM/VuHTCkxdHOI/AAAAAAAAQRc/PPxDFukfYrQpd7kuw1ieaCUjq2Ul_x4Rg/s640/P3070686.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La vallée est entièrement plantée d'oliviers </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z47XGeiPBJE/VuHTCvO52vI/AAAAAAAAQRc/i_3dMDGPJJYF79caVIIw5q2sxDeWg9EFw/s1600/P3070689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z47XGeiPBJE/VuHTCvO52vI/AAAAAAAAQRc/i_3dMDGPJJYF79caVIIw5q2sxDeWg9EFw/s640/P3070689.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruches</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YyvZ-vad_4s/VuHTCgMD1JI/AAAAAAAAQRc/qjLMFkHjp90MKrqg63vO3wJ6_VqGlit1A/s1600/P3070693.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YyvZ-vad_4s/VuHTCgMD1JI/AAAAAAAAQRc/qjLMFkHjp90MKrqg63vO3wJ6_VqGlit1A/s640/P3070693.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les "ti bon dieu" grecs</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kGhngc93hzg/VuHTCkqs0GI/AAAAAAAAQRc/K4u3coCVxzUO1zM42jnVGSGM63Bi7pXQQ/s1600/P3070694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kGhngc93hzg/VuHTCkqs0GI/AAAAAAAAQRc/K4u3coCVxzUO1zM42jnVGSGM63Bi7pXQQ/s640/P3070694.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La terre au pied des oliviers est parsemée de petits sacs de terre bien fermés... à quoi cela sert-il ? Est-ce un piège pour des parasites ? </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P2w_16Aw6rw/VuHTinFvLfI/AAAAAAAAQR4/h2FZuQFIfXQLrrFeKAxzGIvz-_bB-rgVg/s1600/P3070695.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P2w_16Aw6rw/VuHTinFvLfI/AAAAAAAAQR4/h2FZuQFIfXQLrrFeKAxzGIvz-_bB-rgVg/s640/P3070695.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrivée à Kirra</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IrNtcdyWh-E/VuHdMf8SY5I/AAAAAAAAQWo/iECBwNL8cjIqGJjJuOqWRGEg_3dCRRctA/s1600/P3070703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IrNtcdyWh-E/VuHdMf8SY5I/AAAAAAAAQWo/iECBwNL8cjIqGJjJuOqWRGEg_3dCRRctA/s640/P3070703.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous poussons jusqu'à Itea. Là un bus nous remontera à Delphes.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Mardi 8 mars</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Cette fois nous suivons le chemin E4 vers le nord jusqu'à Kroki, un hameau entouré de prairies "alpines" sur lesquelles pâturent des vaches. Des chalets sont regroupés à l'intérieur d'une clôture. Ils sont tous fermés mais sont peut-être occupés l'été. Nous pique-niquons puis rentrons tranquillement en profitant du beau temps.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Le soir la pluie arrive. Nous dînons debouts dans le local vaisselle. Quelques averses suivent dans la nuit.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petit dej' avant le départ </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le chemin monte au dessus de Delphes </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous surplombons le site antique </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un bousier poussant sa boule avec ses pattes arrières nous occupe un moment </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vue vers le mont Parnasse</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pause pique-nique près du point d'eau</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Le temple d'Athena au fond et le gymnase au 1er plan</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amandier planté en terrasse.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pendant ce temps, au camping, l'employé repeint la piscine pour préparer la haute saison qui arrive.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Mercredi 9 mars</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Nous quittons le camping. Le seul bus de la journée pour Thessalonique part à 10h15 de Delphes et est censé s'arrêter si nous lui faisons signe... A 10h30 toujours aucun bus... Alors que nous commençons sérieusement à douter le voilà qui arrive, nous agitons nos mains, il s'arrête ; nous voici embarqués pour Thessalonique. Durée du trajet 5 à 6h. Le début de la route est beau, dans la montagne, creusée par endroits pour l'extraction de la bauxite ou autres métaux. Lamia et Larissa sont 2 villes dans la plaine, urbanisées n'importe comment. Nous voyons au passage des prairies vertes vallonnées comme nous en avons en France.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A la gare routière de Thessalonique nous devons faire appel à des voyageuses pour trouver quels bus prendre jusqu'à l'appartement que nous avons réservé, à 8 km à l'est. Les réfugiés sont visibles : ici un groupe de jeunes femmes voilées de blanc qui portent des couvertures et des sacs tous identiques ; près de la gare ferroviaire un groupe de parents et jeunes enfants guidés par une femme.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Après une grosse averse et un changement de bus, nous sommes accueillis par notre hôte Christophoros et nous sentons vite chez nous pour quelques jours.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'attente du bus.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-73615278452565563172016-03-06T10:52:00.001-08:002016-03-11T12:08:37.828-08:00A la découverte de la vallée de LoussiosMardi 1er mars<br />
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Nous partons pour 13 km de randonnée. Direction Stemnitsa, par les gorges de la vallée de Loussios et ses monastères.<br />
Au monastère de Philosophos nous sommes accueillis par un des 3 moines. Il nous sert de l'eau et des loukoums, nous discutons avec quelques mots d'anglais. Il est là depuis un an. Le plus âgé vit dans ce monastère depuis 25 ans et le troisième depuis 8 ans. Il prient toutes les 5 heures. Ils ne produisent pas leur nourriture mais vont l'acheter à Tripoli. L'église du XVIIème siècle nous rappelle les églises en ruines de Turquie mais dans celle-ci les fresques sont plus récentes et bien conservées. Le moine nous envoie ensuite vers l'ancien monastère du Xème siècle qui est construit dans la falaise et qui servit de lieu d'école religieuse clandestine durant l'occupation ottomane. De l'autre côté du torrent, le monastère Prodromos nous impressionne. Il est niché au creux d'une falaise. Chaque parcelle de terrasse est cultivée. Nous voyons des mules mais pas de moine car le monastère est fermé au public entre 13h et 17h. Dommage.<br />
La remontée vers Stemnitsa est éprouvante, près de 1000m en quelques km. Ce village semble plus isolé que Dimitsana. Nous appelons un taxi qui nous ramène à Dimitsana.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vue sur Dimitsana</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous devinons les gorges.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chapelle Saint Michel </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Le chemin se transforme parfois en cours d'eau, ce qui nous vaut quelques traversées acrobatiques. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le Loussios</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous arrivons en vue du monastère de Philosophos nouveau.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'évangile de Jésus chassant un démon qui va se mettre dans les porcs, au bord du lac de Tibériade</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Le monastère de Philosophos ancien</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le monastère Prodromos</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église du monastère </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dimitsana </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vue au sud sur la vallée de l'Alphée et sa centrale thermique </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrivée à Stemnitsa </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Georges terrassant le dragon</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #38761d;">Nous sommes dans un petit village entouré de montagne avec des monastères un peu partout. Ils ont tous des sources. Nous avons visité une gorge. C'était super beau.</span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #38761d;">Yann</span><br />
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Mercredi 2 mars<br />
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Nous faisons dans la matinée un aller-retour à Zigovisti par un plateau jadis cultivé. Il reste quelques parcelles de noyers, des pâturages pour des chèvres et des moutons et un monastère en travaux. Le village de Zigovisti est tout aussi silencieux que le plateau. L'exode rural est passé par là.<br />
Nous revenons par le même chemin et nous nous payons le "luxe" de déjeuner à l'appartement avant d'attaquer les devoirs !<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dimitsana vu d'en haut</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monastère des saints apôtres</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zigovisti </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mémorial des morts de la guerre d'indépendance.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Théodore Kolokotronis, meneur dans la guerre d'indépendance de 1821</td></tr>
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Jeudi 3 mars<br />
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Ce matin nous visitons le musée en plein air de la force hydraulique. Il reconstitue les techniques pré-industrielles utilisant l'énergie hydraulique pour moudre du grain, presser des olives, tanner du cuir ou préparer de la poudre à canon. Les installations sont très pédagogiques.<br />
En revenant à Dimitsana nous entendons de la musique avec de la clarinette basse. C'est la fête dans le village, les habitants grillent de la viande, des galettes de maïs et boivent du vin. Une femme, Helena, nous sert. Elle nous explique que c'est une célébration avant le carême durant lequel ils ne mangent pas de viande. C'est leur "jeudi gras" ! Voilà sans doute pourquoi nous avons eu du gâteau ce matin !<br />
Nous qui trouvions que les villages manquaient d'animation, nous sommes comblés et touchés que ces villageois partagent avec des touristes.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ce morceau de gâteau était sur le pas de notre porte ce matin !</td></tr>
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Le moulin à farine </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La tannerie </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Site du musée </td></tr>
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L'alambic pour le raki ou tsipouro</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le moulin à poudre </td></tr>
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Le "jeudi gras" avec les villageois</div>
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Vendredi 4 mars<br />
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Un peu avant 7h30 nous nous abritons de la pluie sous un auvent pour attendre l'unique bus qui nous amène à Tripoli. Une femme, Diamando, attend aussi. Sa première question est : "Est-ce que les enfants vont à l'école ?"<br />
7h45 : le bus arrive.<br />
8 h : le bus passe à Stemnitsa. A la sortie du village la couche de neige tombée pendant la nuit tient. Est-ce pour cela que nous faisons demi-tour?<br />
8 h15 : le bus prend des passagers à Stemnitsa<br />
8h30 : nous revoilà à Dimitsana, le bus ne fait pas d'arrêt.<br />
À 10h00 nous arrivons à Tripoli où nous devons attendre jusqu'à 15h10 pour aller à Patra au nord-ouest du Péloponnèse, en vue de rejoindre Delphes. Nous squattent la salle d'attente. Les enfants font leur travail. Une vieille dame coiffée d'un fichu a habité 20 ans en Allemagne. Elle parle dans un allemand approximatif si bien que nous ne comprenons pas trop si elle nous parle de l'histoire de sa famille ou des réfugiés qui arrivent actuellement de Turquie. Cette dame nous demande au moins 3 fois si nous rentrons en avion en France.<br />
Nous arrivons à la nuit tombée à Patra après être allés jusqu'à Corinthe à l'est. Nous trouvons un hôtel pour routards, très bien placé. Cela nous permet de découvrir les décorations de carnaval du centre ville en allant manger une part de pizza. Le centre de cette ville, la 2 ème du pays, semble bien plus riant que celui d'Athènes.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous admirons les villages enneigésont depuis me bus.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les rues piétonne de Patras sont très animées. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La ville se décore pour le carnaval </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Théâtre de Patras </td></tr>
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<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-67164447503944879222016-03-03T09:15:00.000-08:002016-03-06T10:53:14.935-08:00Tentative d'itinérance au nord du PéloponnèseVendredi 26 février<br />
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Nous sommes à pied d'oeuvre pour prendre le bus de 7h30, direction Sparte puis Tripoli. Nous faisons de grands signes de la main à Augustin et Dimitria qui attendent le bus scolaire. Dans le bus pour Sparte une femme qui a habité longtemps au Canada engage la conversation en anglais. Elle regrette d'être revenue en Grèce, ses enfants n'ont pas de travail. Elle déplore aussi l'excès de touristes à Mistra. Elle nous dit que les habitants désormais ferment leurs portes. Nous constatons une fois encore les dégâts du tourisme de masse. A 10h30, après le plein d'essence (un litre, pour le réchaud !) et un passage à la boulangerie, nous quittons Tripoli pleins d'entrain, heureux de démarrer une itinérance de plusieurs jours jusqu'au nord du Péloponnèse. Nous montons sur une route puis un large chemin de terre. Nous pique-niquons sur un plateau non loin de troupeaux de brebis et chèvres. Lorsque nous repartons, une femme en 4x4 s'arrête à notre hauteur et nous dit "dromos, dromos !" Comme nous ne comprenons rien, elle fait un geste qui veut dire étroit et ajoute "micro". Elle s'inquiète pour le passage de nos chariots sur le chemin qui se rétrécit ! Nous lui montrons nos roues en faisant signe que ça ira. Et patatras, une heure et demi plus tard, le chariot de Gwénolé casse à l'endroit de la soudure. Le réparateur n'avait mis aucune pièce pour renforcer l'intérieur du tube. Nous ne pouvons plus rien prévoir maintenant, la suite des événements sera dictée par l'état du chariot.<br />
Il nous reste 3 km jusqu'au village étape de ce soir, Kapsia. Gwénolé, Xavier et Yann se répartissent les sacs sur leurs dos et nous arrivons tant bien que mal jusqu'à la route. Un premier commerçant nous propose une ficelle pour réparer ! Nous lui montrons que cela ne suffira pas. Les tenanciers d'une taverne nous indiquent qu'à Levidi, le village voisin, quelqu'un pourra peut-être nous le réparer. Une autre option serait de retourner à Tripoli. Un bus passe à 19h pour Levidi, nous choisissons de le prendre et de dîner à la taverne en attendant : souvlakis, frites et une préparation aux aubergines, tomates, huile d'olive et fromage. La cuisinière nous offre du gâteau à l'orange !<br />
Dans le bus, le steward cherche pour nous spontanément les horaires de bus pour quitter Levidi. Il faut dire que les arrêts ne sont même pas matérialisés, alors l'affichage des horaires, n'y pensons pas !<br />
Il fait nuit lorsque nous débarquons à Levidi. Nous nous adressons à une taverne pour trouver une chambre chez l'habitant. 3 minutes plus tard nous avons 2 voitures devant nous, prêtes à nous emmener. Nous négocions le prix avant de monter. Georges, le patron d'un petit village vacances, nous emmène à un peu plus d'un km. Nous avons une chambre en sous-sol mais assez luxueuse, avec kitchenette. Georges voit où nous pourrions nous adresser pour la réparation, il nous y emmènera demain.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eZSGQQtruqc/Vtae86JZhiI/AAAAAAAAP7Q/0ZR0plSA5lc/s1600/P2260393.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eZSGQQtruqc/Vtae86JZhiI/AAAAAAAAP7Q/0ZR0plSA5lc/s640/P2260393.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le 1er village après Tripoli. Le printemps est là !</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g7eoeA73QVQ/Vtae85eSSLI/AAAAAAAAP7Q/apGq4UjY9Po/s1600/P2260396.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g7eoeA73QVQ/Vtae85eSSLI/AAAAAAAAP7Q/apGq4UjY9Po/s640/P2260396.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pause pique-nique en plein vent. Nous ne nous attardons pas car le vent est froid !</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a7649B-zP9M/Vtae85yyYGI/AAAAAAAAP7Q/WCW35RPdJmQ/s1600/P2260412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a7649B-zP9M/Vtae85yyYGI/AAAAAAAAP7Q/WCW35RPdJmQ/s400/P2260412.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tentative de réparation. Ce sera insuffisant. Nous terminerons sac et chariot au dos.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5b0kEwa6HGU/Vtae87mAKxI/AAAAAAAAP7Q/4aIVZpbT3cA/s1600/P2260415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5b0kEwa6HGU/Vtae87mAKxI/AAAAAAAAP7Q/4aIVZpbT3cA/s320/P2260415.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quelques km plus loin, notre destination est enfin en vue</td></tr>
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Samedi 27 février<br />
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Un employé nous dépose (les parents) chez le réparateur pendant que les enfants font leur travail en autonomie. L'employé repart après avoir appelé quelqu'un. Rien ne se passe, l'atelier est fermé. Gwénolé part aux nouvelles dans le village, tombe sur le frère du réparateur qui lui signale que son frère est à Athènes pour le week-end. Nous n'avons plus qu'à attendre jusqu'à lundi.<br />
Nous trouvons un logement plus près du centre, avec 2 chambres et un peu moins cher. L'hôtelier voulait à tout prix que nous logions chez lui. Les logements sont vides en raison de l'absence de neige dans la station de ski voisine.<br />
L'après-midi est un peu morose, d'autant que le village n'est pas du tout animé, à croire que tous sont devant leur télé ! Nous repérons toutefois une balade possible pour le lendemain.<br />
Nous sommes en contact avec le directeur de Carrix. Nous nous rendons compte que nous pouvons changer seulement la pièce cassée sans avoir besoin de racheter un chariot complet.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Notre chambre en sous-sol</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IZ_LKwZ1VQk/Vtbz2B7kJqI/AAAAAAAAP7w/qWwbQXNVvuM/s1600/P2270421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IZ_LKwZ1VQk/Vtbz2B7kJqI/AAAAAAAAP7w/qWwbQXNVvuM/s640/P2270421.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le village de Levidi </td></tr>
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Dimanche 28 février<br />
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Nous n'entendons pas de cloches, du côté de l'église cela ne doit pas être plus dynamique que dans les rues !<br />
Nous sortons de notre logement. La mère de l'hôtelier nous demande où nous allons. Nous lui répondons : "Orchomenos". Elle nous demande : "taxi ?" Nous lui faisons signe à pied, elle nous répond "sorry". Orchomenos est à 5 km de là, pour elle ce doit être la punition d'y aller à pied. Pour nous cet aller-retour de 10 km est plaisant.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arbres fruitiers et ruches à la sortie de Levidi</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kKR8poBp-pM/Vtb76TqVCaI/AAAAAAAAP8U/ElAt0kvL2J4/s1600/P2280428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kKR8poBp-pM/Vtb76TqVCaI/AAAAAAAAP8U/ElAt0kvL2J4/s640/P2280428.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marche d'approche dans la plaine cultivée</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yKA-ZWgqA7E/Vtb76fx5uWI/AAAAAAAAP8U/6Vq4_GorDlI/s1600/P2280429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yKA-ZWgqA7E/Vtb76fx5uWI/AAAAAAAAP8U/6Vq4_GorDlI/s640/P2280429.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrivée à Orchomenos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tDkg_eZ5OMo/Vtb76aKsTQI/AAAAAAAAP8U/6Hkm5ZTnmIc/s1600/P2280432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tDkg_eZ5OMo/Vtb76aKsTQI/AAAAAAAAP8U/6Hkm5ZTnmIc/s640/P2280432.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les restes du théâtre antique </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QBQuSYOKgR0/Vtb76af2WbI/AAAAAAAAP8U/KEcvdhx93HY/s1600/P2280433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QBQuSYOKgR0/Vtb76af2WbI/AAAAAAAAP8U/KEcvdhx93HY/s640/P2280433.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nos seules rencontres : la gardienne du site et les "agents d'entretien" !</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EF7GVRIE0G0/Vtb76e2MbhI/AAAAAAAAP8U/wraTl1OyR1U/s1600/P2280435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EF7GVRIE0G0/Vtb76e2MbhI/AAAAAAAAP8U/wraTl1OyR1U/s640/P2280435.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Au sommet de la colline, les ruines d'une tour moyenâgeuse</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tDSlNjO_l2I/Vtb76X2-6aI/AAAAAAAAP8U/3YUd-qRp28k/s1600/P2280436.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tDSlNjO_l2I/Vtb76X2-6aI/AAAAAAAAP8U/3YUd-qRp28k/s640/P2280436.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pique-nique à côté de l'église. Les églises sont souvent un endroit où nous pouvons nous poser car elles offrent un point d'eau et souvent un coin où nous asseoir. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dDSuMmAdl1s/Vtb76SKAs3I/AAAAAAAAP8U/nHikef0WNL8/s1600/P2280442.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dDSuMmAdl1s/Vtb76SKAs3I/AAAAAAAAP8U/nHikef0WNL8/s640/P2280442.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retour vers Levidi</td></tr>
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Lundi 29 février<br />
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Nous commençons la journée chez le réparateur qui nous fait signe d'emblée qu'il ne peut rien faire pour le chariot. Il nous dit "Tripoli". Nous n'avons définitivement pas envie de retourner à Tripoli pour chercher un hypothétique réparateur. Il nous reste une grosse semaine avant de rejoindre Thessalonique, ce qui est insuffisant pour reprendre notre itinérance à Vytina ou même à Daras. Carrix peut nous envoyer rapidement la pièce à moitié prix, chez les propriétaires de l'appartement que nous avons réservé à Thessalonique, cette solution nous paraît plus fiable.<br />
Nous montrons la carte du Péloponnèse à nos logeurs en leur indiquant Dimitsana, un village autour duquel nous pourrons faire plusieurs randonnées. Nous avons un bus à 12h15. Dans ce bus nous retrouvons notre steward de vendredi, Marinos, ainsi que le chauffeur âgé. Marinos fait aussi office de facteur colis à chaque arrêt. Il nous demande pourquoi nous trimbalons autant de bagages si nous dormons à l'hôtel. Nous lui racontons donc notre mésaventure avec un des chariots et lui expliquons notre projet. Il s'exclame "it's amazing !". Nous discutons des territoires palestiniens où Marinos a un ami et de la Grèce. Marinos pense qu'il faut réformer beaucoup de choses en Grèce, dont l'école. Les passagers qui parlent anglais suivent la conversation !<br />
Ce bus fait un arrêt à 6 km de Dimitsana. Marinos passe plusieurs coups de téléphone pour nous trouver un taxi ou un bus qui peut nous amener jusqu'au village. Au final, il nous dit qu'un bus passe à 14h. Nous avons 3/4 d'heure pour pique-niquer au carrefour. Le bus arrive un peu en retard. C'est un bus scolaire, le chauffeur nous embarque gratuitement.<br />
Nous arrivons à Dimitsana vers 15h. Nous dégotons un appartement en plein centre. L'accueil est très sympathique, la dame couvre les enfants de petites attentions genre barquettes de pâte à tartiner, cela nous change de l'accueil à Levidi !<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrivée à Dimitsana</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Il y a des églises et des chapelles à tous les coins de rues. Malheureusement toutes fermées. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre appartement au 1er étage.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous goûtons une sorte de gruau au fromage, que nous avons préparé comme des pâtes. Résultat moyen !</td></tr>
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<br />Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-48607196174964983892016-02-28T09:53:00.000-08:002016-03-08T10:19:03.779-08:00Mystra<span style="font-size: medium;">Mardi 23 février </span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;">Nous quittons notre appartement en fin de matinée. 15 minutes après, c'est la catastrophe ! Un tube du chariot de Gwénolé se casse. Il nous faut prendre une décision très rapidement : rester à Athènes ou nous rendre en bus à Mistra où nous avons réservé une chambre pour 2 nuits. Nous avons besoin de quitter la pollution, nous choisissons donc la deuxième option. Nous hélons un taxi qui amène Charlotte, Yann, Solenn, le chariot cassé et ses sacs à la gare routière. Gwénolé et Xavier y arrivent un peu plus tard et nous réussissons à prendre le bus de 13h15 comme prévu, sans toutefois avoir pu déjeuner ou aller aux toilettes ! Après le passage de l'isthme de Corinthe, nous découvrons les paysages montagneux du Péloponnèse. Nous changeons de bus à Sparte et à 17h30 nous voici sur la place du village de Mistra. Notre logement est heureusement juste à côté car nous sommes peu mobiles. A peine installés, nous parlons de notre problème à nos hôtes Elena et Augustin, de Mystras Castle Town. Augustin passe aussitôt plusieurs coups de téléphone afin de trouver un réparateur, pendant que Elena nous apporte du café et des oranges pressées. Augustin embarque immédiatement Gwénolé et le chariot chez un ami garagiste qui leur indique un réparateur de matériel agricole et vélos. Celui-ci explique, via sa femme qui traduit en anglais, qu'il peut renforcer et ressouder le tube pour le lendemain soir. L'espoir renaît. Entre-temps Charlotte a obtenu quelques conseils de Carrix, le constructeur. Elle a aussi fait quelques courses à la supérette du village. Le commerçant rit à gorge déployée et essaie de répondre aux questions d'une émission télévisée, c'est tout juste s'il voit Charlotte entrer. Pas de stress ici, en tout cas pas à cette saison !</span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;">Nous finissons la journée en mesurant notre chance d'être tombés sur de tels hôtes. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrivée sur la place principale de Mistra</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vue depuis notre balcon</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Mercredi 24 février </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Nous partons à la découverte de Mistra. Sa citadelle fut fondée par les Francs au 13ème siècle. Mistra a été la capitale du Péloponnèse au 14ème et 15ème siecle à la fin de l'empire byzantin. De ce fait elle en a été le centre spirituel et intellectuel durant cette période. Elle était appelée "petite Constantinople". Elle fut classée à l'UNESCO en 1989. Depuis ses églises ont été restaurées de même que certaines habitations et une partie de l'ancien palais. Un des monastères est toujours occupé par une communauté de religieuses.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous apprécions la quiétude de l'endroit où, à part 2 groupes de scolaires et 4 ou 5 personnes, nous sommes seuls.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Au retour, Augustin emmène Gwénolé pour récupérer le chariot ressoudé. C'est presque trop beau pour être vrai !</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le monastère Pantanassa où la vie monastique est encore présente. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous montons par un sentier au milieu des champs d'oliviers et de parterres de pâquerettes. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Une des anciennes portes menant à la cité </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église Saint Démétrios</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sous les icônes, de multiples plaques de remerciements. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église Evangilistria</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous montons vers le monastère Pantanassa</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Les fresques datent du 15 ème </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église et couvent Sainte Sophia </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Une nativité du 15 ème </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vues depuis la citadelle </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église Saint Theodoroi </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monastère Hodegetria. Les souverains de Mistra terminaient leur vie dans un monastère. Plusieurs tombes de souverains ont de ce fait été trouvées là.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Une ancienne demeure en cours de restauration </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flower power</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Jeudi 25 février</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Sur les conseils d'Augustin, nous avons pu repérer une boucle de randonnée qui part de la vallée de Mistra puis revient par les gorges de Paroreio. Le temps est superbe et nous décide définitivement pour la randonnée plutôt que la visite de Sparte. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Nous restons une nuit de plus ici, nous y sommes bien. Nous n'aurons pas à chercher un logement à Tripoli avant notre départ à pied car nous prendrons le premier bus vendredi matin. En même temps, c'est une façon de remercier nos hôtes qui manquent de clients.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vue de l'ancienne cité depuis Mistra moderne.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le château des Francs</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Constantin Paléologue, le dernier empereur byzantin, qui fut d'abord despote à Mistra</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chapelle de la Transfiguration</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chapelle Saint Nicolas </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mais à quoi sert ce pneu de vélo ? Il y en a un accroché sous chaque arbre.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nouvelle chapelle de la Transfiguration </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sieste sous les platanes </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrivée à la chapelle Panaghia Lagadhiotissa construite dans une grotte.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retour à Mistra</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tout le monde travaille</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Partie de UNO endiablée avec Augustin et Dimitria </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>Nous 5http://www.blogger.com/profile/05878788606013231926noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8434804793070779428.post-8653060850616339642016-02-24T11:09:00.001-08:002016-02-24T11:24:35.861-08:00Second séjour à Athènes <span style="font-size: large;">Bienvenue sur notre site !</span><br />
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Mardi 16 février<br />
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Bon anniversaire Solenn !<br />
Aujourd'hui Solenn a 8 ans. Nous partons ce matin pour Athènes. En l'honneur de Solenn et du dernier soir avant le retour en France des parents de Charlotte, ces derniers nous offrent le restaurant. Au menu calamars, sardines ou porc épicé pour les adultes et pasta pour les enfants. Le tout se termine par des millefeuilles, gâteaux au chocolats ou "ekmek quelquechose" avec en prime une bougie pour Solenn !<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Départ de Paros<br />
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<span style="color: #274e13;">Paros était la meilleure île qu'on ait visité. Plus grande que Santorin et les paysages étaient plus variés, plus montagneux et puis ce n'était pas une île archi touristique par rapport à Santorin. </span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">Yann</span></div>
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Mercredi 17 février et jeudi 18 février<br />
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Aujourd'hui nous partons à l'école. Nous passerons 2 jours au collège et lycée des Ursulines pour présenter notre voyage aux élèves pendant leurs cours de français, religion ou philo.<br />
Certains nous prennent pour des fous mais tous semblent intéressés et intrigués par notre histoire. Les Grecs ne sont pas des aventuriers dans l'âme et notre périple leur semble incroyable. Espérons que certains lâcheront un peu leur voiture...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Nous consacrons notre 1ère matinée à mettre à jour notre présentation afin d'être prêts pour le cours de français de 13h30.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous sommes accueillis par Loukia et toute l'équipe des 12 professeurs de français.</td></tr>
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Vendredi 19 février<br />
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Les enfants bullent à l'appartement pendant toute la matinée pendant que les parents vont au marché et font quelques emplettes. Au total, cette semaine, nous avons acheté une paire de chaussures pour Gwénolé et une pour Solenn, 2 couverts en plastique et une assiette, fait réparer une chaussure de Xavier et recoudre une bretelle de nos gros sacs bleus, récupéré le topo-guide de la Via Egnatia commandé 2 semaines avant, acheté 2 paires de lunettes de soleil pour les garçons (modèles à 3 euros maintenant) et 2 cordons dont un qui a dû tomber directement du sac à dos de Charlotte !<br />
A 16h30 nous rejoignons Loukia la professeur de français et Maria la professeur de religion. Elles sont avec leurs deux filles étudiantes. Elles nous emmènent visiter 2 églises byzantines et Maria nous donne des explications qui nous éclairent sur ce que nous avons vu dans les églises orthodoxes depuis la Serbie. En Grèce, les églises ont été construites avec des matériaux récupérés. Ainsi, si des pierres avec des sculptures païennes étaient utilisées, on sculptait des croix à côté de la sculpture d'origine pour la christianiser. Les proportions d'une église byzantine ne sont pas parfaites ni élevées, afin de rester au niveau de l'homme. Pour savoir quel est le saint patron de l'église, il faut regarder l'icône qui est à la gauche de l'icône de Marie.<br />
Nous sommes heureux d'avoir partagé ces heures avec nos formidables guides. Peut-être pourrons-nous rendre la pareille à elles ou leurs filles ?<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Xavier a fait un gâteau à l'orange et fait souffler une bougie à Solenn !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La chapelle Ste Filothée à côté de la cathédrale </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un "chaud lapin", symbole de la chair, élevé par l'aigle, symbole de l'esprit</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loukia doit traduire les explications de Maria !</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église du Kapnikarea, menacée 2 fois de destruction pour l'urbanisation et qui se trouve finalement au beau milieu d'une rue</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maria et Loukia nous font goûter des Loukoumades, beignets arrosés de miel ou de chocolat fondu. Ça cale vite !</td></tr>
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Samedi 20 février<br />
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Ce matin les enfants restent tranquilles à l'appartement pendant que les parents vont dans un cyber-café pour mettre à jour le CV de Charlotte et imprimer des indications sur le chemin européen E4 dans le Péloponnèse. Le week-end les métros sont moins nombreux et, tassés à la station Omonia, nous subissons notre première attaque de pickpocket. La technique : un manteau sur le bras, que l'on pose sur le sac à dos le temps d'ouvrir celui-ci. Gwénolé se prend en plus une main baladeuse devant sa poche mais il a heureusement la main sur sa pochette portefeuille (qu'il portera désormais en ceinture dans le métro). Au final, nous n'avons rien perdu.<br />
L'après-midi, nous visitons le musée de la guerre qui nous fait réviser l'histoire de Grèce de l'Antiquité à l'empire Byzantin puis l'empire Ottoman et enfin la république grecque.<br />
Nous rentrons à pied, ce qui nous permet d'observer les contrastes entre l'hypercentre touristique et le centre déserté par les riches, parsemé de maisons qui furent belles mais qui sont maintenant croulantes.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Statuette d'Alexandre le Grand au musée de la guerre</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les enfants devant des avions de l'armée de l'air</td></tr>
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Dimanche 21 février<br />
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Nous assistons à la messe en français. Le prêtre, Maurice, est un jésuite très impliqué dans l'accueil des réfugiés. Le Service Jésuite des Réfugiés a d'ailleurs été créé officiellement à Athènes en novembre 2015. Nous rencontrons aussi Cécile qui nous invite à déjeuner chez elle et qui est également très active dans JRS. Avec elle nous mesurons l'énorme défi auquel doivent faire face la Grèce et l'Europe pour gérer l'urgence. Le flux des migrants varie beaucoup mais peut atteindre entre 2000 et 4000 personnes par jour. Généralement, les réfugiés syriens, afghans ou irakiens ne restent pas en Grèce et sont redirigés vers l'Allemagne, l'Autriche ou la Suède. Le temps de leur transfert, ils sont logés dans des camps (anciennes bases militaires, stade olympique). Les jésuites accueillent des familles ou les plus fragiles pour 3 jours. La gestion est encore plus compliquée pour les migrants économiques, qui par définition ne peuvent pas obtenir l'asile, ou pour les migrants qui ont plusieurs papiers d'identité différents ou aucun.<br />
Le flux des migrants est par ailleurs un marché juteux pour toutes les mafias puisque les passeurs demandent entre 1500 et 2000€ par personne pour faire 5 km entassé dans un zodiac près à chavirer...<br />
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Chez Cécile nous déjeunons avec Manuela qui a réalisé pour le HCR des émissions de radio pour donner la parole à des migrants et des Grecs qui les aident.<br />
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A notre retour en métro, entassés à la station Syntagma, le scénario de la veille se reproduit mais cette fois Gwénolé surveille son sac dans les reflets de la vitre et, excédé, essaye de mettre la honte au pickpocket ! Charlotte se retrouve quelques secondes plus tard avec le sac ouvert par une femme au manteau sur le bras. Celle-ci se carapatte vers la sortie.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Aujourd'hui nous prenons le métro. Cest le repaire des pickpockets ! Nous sommes tout serrés. Papa commence à parler fort en disant à un monsieur de refermer la poche de son sac. Ce monsieur est un pickpocket! Heureusement c'était marqué dans les guides et Papa et Maman n'avaient rien mis de précieux dans les sacs.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">XAVIER</span></div>
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: blue;">Dans le métro on était tout compréssé tellement il y avait de gens. Un pickpocket a essayé de voler des choses</span> dans le sac de Papa, mais Papa s'en est rendu compte et à dit au voleur </span></div>
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<span style="color: red;">-s'il vous plait pouvez vous me refermer mon sac .</span></div>
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<span style="color: red;">YANN</span></div>
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Déjeuner improvisé avec vue sur mer chez Cécile </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avec Cécile, Félix et Célestin</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nous utilisons la cuisine bien équipée de notre appartement </td></tr>
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Lundi 22 février<br />
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Nous nous aérons un peu en allant jusqu'au bout de notre ligne de métro, dans le quartier huppé de Kifissia. Nous visitons une église dans le centre et une autre sur la colline, dans un monastère qui semble déserté.<br />
L'après-midi est consacré au travail scolaire et à la préparation de la suite du programme. Nos tentatives d'aider dans une ferme bio ou dans une communauté n'ayant pas abouti, nous prévoyons une dizaine de jours le long du chemin européen E4 dans le Pélopponèse puis un passage par Delphes avant de rejoindre Thessalonique d'où commencera véritablement notre retour en France.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église de la transfiguration </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les maisons sont très chics</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Église Notre Dame de la Délivrance</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maison du centre ville </td></tr>
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